be18see1

well thats good to know now....

97SpecR

I found the part numbers that fit what year Integras. I would think Honda side would be close. Not sure though. I found this info in the Acura sevice bulletin.

90-93 Integra:52385-SK7-N02
94-01 Integra:52385-SR3-000

I hope this will help

Travis

raynkel

Does any one know of a supplier for bushings for the 94 accord wagon?

I can get the whole arm for 150....

wakkoviper

good stuff. Just bought the tool and waiting for my bushings to come in so I can fix mine.

Mr Tickle

If you take one of the ends off some old drive shafts (bottom right in below pic) then you can sit this over the ring around the bush and hit in level.

Win.

Shehzada

The drive shaft idea is a good one and probably would work for taking out the bushings. However to drive them back in (evenly and properly)......I think that tool is a must.

They have an updated model ( # 65130 ) that is supposed to work on 90-93 Integras. I wonder if that updated model will work on my 2001 CR-V ? Does anyone know if the trailing arms on the CR-V are tapered and the bushing is only meant to come out one way ?

orb1998

hiya, new on here so please bear with me.

Regading knocking the bushes out with a tool, no good unless you have access to a ramp as you have to hit them hard to knock them out (believe me) I have a 1" scare to prove this where i hit my thumb.

Regarding the initial tool is there any chance i could get some measurements of it as you can not get this tool in the UK and i have access to machine one

I just need to know the width of the tool (overall) and thickness of the material used for the legs, also the position of the thread relative to the legs as this looks off set.

anyt chance somoeone who has a tool could measure it for me .... i would appreciate it many thanks in advance

orb1998

forgot to say .... i am again replacing the bushes for a Rover 45 / MG ZS with uses honda bushes (uk part number ) 52385-ST3-G01

SpinKix

Cheapest NEW tool I've found... shipped for $128.94

http://stores.shop.ebay.com/Joeys-Wholesale

Shipped same day as ordered, UPS tracking number provided.

Just do a search on their site for "honda bushing tool"

Check HondaMarketplace here for used tool first to see if one is available.

Someone lists a rental there too.

Edul59

does it have diffferent press sizes so you can press out other bushings??

SpinKix

There is a similar tool (65130) for Integras, but no other different sizes.

racebum

matco makes a great one, well worth the $20

dognutz

If your just doing the TA bushing and replacing with a stock bushing no tool is required. The bushing is tapered and can be knocked in and out with a hammer. There is a vid on here somewhere of a guy doing it.

Slamminmofo2k7

Anybody located in or around the Northeast PA area that has the tool and experience to change my RTA bushings? I can offer some cash. Get back to me. Sorry if this is not allowed.. I just need the help.

rodentmaster

Hey ho.......
from a quick search,I am having a little trouble sourcing the tool to be shipped to Australia...........
Is Schley the only producer of such a tool?

CRV g1
'99 -152,000kms with a sloppy rear end.

STOCK_SOHC_DX

No Matco also makes this tool. I own one but it's a lot more expensive. Lifetime warranty Worth every penny.
Part # MST6510

*edit*
Just seen the pic of the original looks exactly the same. Probably made by the same company. Only difference is Matco one comes with that warranty but I really doubt you can break this thing.

Donnie-

update. the tools are now 75 shipped on ebay.

spicysomtam

I can give you my experience of replacing these bushes. Firstly I managed to get good quality (better than the originals) replacements for 5 UKP each on ebay. Make sure you get ones with a good taper as this will help you getting them in. The trick to replace them:

-firstly you need good underneath access. ideally the car should be on a lift with you having access underneath. You need good access underneath to swing a hammer about to knock out the old bushes. A pit may do the job. Axel stands or a ramp probably isn't good enough. If you don't have good underneath access, then you will need to remove the whole trailing arm; this is not difficult but means you will need to disconnect the break pipe (and thus have to rebleed brakes afterwards and get the pressure up again; more work). Generally removing all the bolts are easy as they within the car body and not prone to water soaking and corrosion.
-remove the wheel.
-remove the front bolt that holds the arm to the body (better than removing the next bolt along which will be rusted up).
-remove the bolts holding the bush in place.
-remove the two bolts holding the assembly to the side body of the car (just in front of the shock).
-The arm and bush can then be lowered at the front and you have access.
-Mark the positions of the upper and lower rubber bits on the arm so that you can put the new one in the same as the old one (assuming it has not moved).
-Measure the distance from the arm to the bolt holes in the bush.
-Knock out the old bush from the inside (they are tapered so that is the way they come out). There is a utube video that shows this; you wack the bush on either side using a squared headed hammer.
-Put the new bush in from the outer side, aligning with the marks you made earlier for the rubber bits.
-Tap the bush in using a similar method used for removing it (on both sides). Might be worth cleaning the hole for the bush beforehand and smearing some grease on to help the incersion. Tap them in until you get the same measurements for the bolt holes you took earlier (the new bushes appear to have more sideways movement for the holes so easier to align them up when fitting).
-Reinstall bolts in reverse order of removing them. Adjust front bolt to get camber right horizontally. There is probably another bolt for getting the camber right vertically (I did not need to do this).

PatrickGSR94

iTrader: (1)

No need to remove brake lines when removing trailing arm. Just remove the caliper and leave the brake line connected, and hang the caliper from the suspension spring or something.

Also it's best to mark the position of the trailing arm bushing with the car sitting on the ground. This way the new bushing will go in clocked correctly based on the car's ride height. Most people overlook this, but any time a Honda with trailing arms has its ride height altered, the RTA bushing has more stress on it since it stays in a twisted position all the time.

Trey

You can get a 12-ton press from harborfreight.com for $130 and IMO, is more useful.

I've seen them on sale for $104.

D15B Civic

Same tool we used at acura when i worked there..Saves a lot of time def with a lift and they would charge people a arm and a leg to replace the RTA bushings and use this tool and have it done in no time..

PatrickGSR94

iTrader: (1)

I effing hate crooks and crooked mechanics/shops

acmoc

Are you suppose to press the old bushing out towards the wheel?
And the new bushing in towards the car

D15B Civic

Sad part is that it was a Acura Dealership...before leaving i had worked in dealerships for 5 years while in highschool and some of college and must say there sometimes worse then private shops

Trey

This is true. I just did my RTA bushings using a hammer as well. Three good wacks and the old ones popped out. Putting the new ones in required a little more work but thinking back, I should have put them in the freezer first so they would bang in easier. Everything took about 20 mins to get completed. No press is needed.