Chanb0b

Lets get the easy stuff out of the way first
Car is a 95 Accord Wagon EX(US) stock 2.2vtec with auto trans.
4 corner disc brakes.

Issue:l
I removed my abs system, I replaced the master cylinder, booster, proportioning valve and front brake lines from a non-abs Accord. All the parts are used and came from a pick and pull.
I went to bleed the system and that is where the issue is. First time I pressed the pedal it went to the floor, now it is pretty hard and only moves a little(Maybe 1/4 - 1/2 inch) Also no fluid comes from any of the bleeders on the calipers. When I loosen the line fittings at the master cylinder fluid does start to come out, when I loosen the front brake line fittings from the proportioning valve there is nothing, dry. I have not loosened the rear lines to test them yet but I am guessing I have no fluid coming out since the rear bleeders are dry as well.

Is this an issue anyone has come across? Is my proportioning valve bad?
Thanks in advance for any help

Matt_EH3

Did you bench bleed your master cylinder before installing it?

https://honda-tech.com/forums/acura-...%2A%2A-874652/

Chanb0b

No, I hadn't. After making this post I went and bench bled the MC(on the car) Still have the same issue though. Hard brake pedal and unable to bleed any of the lines(It acts like there is pressure in the system, but there is no where for the pressure to go(If that makes sense).
After "bench bleeding" my mc I did this: Loosened the brake line fittings at the master. fluid started to leak out, so I then moved to the proportion valve fittings, fluid started to come out of those fittings when loosened as well.
I have also pressed and held the brake pedal while starting the car, hardly any movement(if any) from the pedal. The check valve from the booster vacuum line seems to be working properly(I can blow through one way but not the other) The E with the arrow is pointed towards the engine. The first time I removed that vacuum line you could hear air escape(Like opening a bottle of soda)

egvera89

You probably have a lot of air in the brake system still. Try opening the RR bleeder screw and pump the brake pedal multiple times while having someone watch the reservoir to see if the fluid level drops. That same person can walk to the rear of the car and check to see if they see fluid coming out.

B serious

iTrader: (1)

but did you read the issue....

OP. Do accords have a check valve besides the one in the MC?

egvera89

I did read the issue, when he loosened the lines from the master cylinder fluid comes out but then not from the proportion valve. No where does it say anything about fluid coming out or not from the bleeder screws on the calipers. If there's a lot of air pockets in the lines it will take a while to pump them all out manually.

B serious

iTrader: (1)

His words are a little vague, I'll admit. But hes saying that the bleeders are dry (no fluid coming out). So I assume he opened them.

He was clear, though, that the pedal DOESN'T fall. Its solid. So...the fluid is stopping at the prop valve, it seems. Its acting like a check valve is flipped.

Chanb0b

Sorry for the delay in a response, I was trying to get the car ready for a show this weekend and finally got to checking my emails and such.
The issue has been sorted out, I had two lines crossed on accident, I had the line from the MC going into the front left port which is why I was getting a hard pedal. Swapped, bled and they work flawless. Thank you all for the input though.
I normally don't "bench bleed" Master cylinders before installing them, especially with this car. I had just gotten done painting, powder coating and detailing the engine and I didn't want to risk fluid spilling, I like to bleed them on the car, far less messy and much less risk of ruining paint. The MC worked off the car so I was more focused on a bad prop valve, booster or plugged line.