I m looking to rebuild my GSR head soon. I have 2 broken exhaust manifold studs one retapped to standard size and too many exhaust leaks....

To reduce downtime i plan on buying a bare GSR head, P&P then all new internals
I would like a 9K redline to stay in boost a bit longer than i am currently if you think that my bottom end can handle it (rebuilt abuot 40K miles ago with SRP (9.5:1 and Eagle rods, all new honda seals, bearings etc)

I was debating with ITR OEM parts all new (valves, springs, retainers, guides, etc)
or to go with SI valves company

I thought abuot ferrea but the cost is way too high and i would like longevity out of this also. any suggestions are GREAT

thansk

 

Well, pushing 9k out of ITR parts that were meant for 8.6k might be hurting the longevity you're after. Ferrea's parts really aren't that expensive for what you get.

 

Run skunk2 springs and retainers, it's not that expensive and good insurance.

 

Avoid Ti-retainers.

 

thanks guys, i was going to avoid Ti retainers because of the 35K rebuild issue i ve heard so much about

i know i need steel retainers but what abuot Ti springs, how long will they usually last. 35K miles can be just over a year for me.

Also i know many people who run the ITR head over 9K constantly not advised i know but what do you guys think

from the comparison stuff Skunk SUX, ferrea makes good stuff but for the price they dont last long

 

ttt

 

use a b16 head, try sunk2 springs and retainers. Get the si head p&P and call it a day.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SiKid86 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">use a b16 head, try sunk2 springs and retainers. Get the si head p&P and call it a day.</TD></TR></TABLE>

LOL...i love how people swear that the b16 head ported is better than a ported gsr..

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TeamCracka &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Avoid Ti-retainers.</TD></TR></TABLE>

had some that were chipping due to the rocker arms making contact.

 

yeah i also dont understand how the b16 vs b18c1 is better, if ported

most people used to use the b16 because of easier access...

besides i dont want to have to switch the intake mani-- i love the dual runners for now because i drive lots of highway miles, - better gas and good throttle resp when needed.

 

bump need more info guys... how much should i ned up spending total for the head?

 

hey M, I think the OEM is your best bet, look around if you have time, as long as the car runs for now, dont boost too much lol, and did you ever get that cooling problem looked at?

 

I'm running an ITR head with RM springs, and retainers. Stock ITR intake/exhaust valves. 9k redline... no problems so far. Just stick with your stock head, and upgrade the springs, and retainers.

 

well stock head needs to be swapped because i have two broken exhaust mani studs... therefore tons of exhaust leak which keep my turbo from properly spooling and sound like ***

so the head gets swapped with a rebuilt one--
I DO NOT WANT TO CHANGE THE head for another- because i will have to change intake mani, TB and then charge piping, etc, too much hassle-

sticking to gsr head with built internals
really looking toward OEM
I just found Omni power thru K-tellers site. looks like decent stuff but need more info on them....

anyone have any?

 

bump--- need know what parts ot use ASAP

thanks

 

port polish
stock valve size
supertech valve train (black nitrate coding, dished) (500 shipped; talk to earl or camp1320.com)
gsr cams are good for temp (save yoyr money for now)....

hth gl