CEL Code 9: New Dist, or just replace rotor and cap?
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From: Off THE 60, Between THE 605 and THE 57
01 base, ~60,000 miles, pulling a code 9.
searched, found some stuff, but what will determine whether i need a new dist or just a new cap and rotor? Car runs fine, no rough idle, maybe a little less peppy than before.
searched, found some stuff, but what will determine whether i need a new dist or just a new cap and rotor? Car runs fine, no rough idle, maybe a little less peppy than before.
I have the same problem. In a previous thread i had told them how to test to see if its the dizzy housing or an actual wiring problem. lemme find it for you
EDIT: here you are, meter these locations.
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=969598
If all is fine there, you need to meter the connections on the ECU female connector. Loop the 2 first and if you got no reading, try one at a time to a ground source. If you get no reading, got a dead wire somewhere.
And it wouldent be the cap a rotor, its the actual dizzy housing that the CYP is connected to.
Also, pull your cap and check to see if you got red dust or anything like that on the inside, if so ignitor took a dump. Depending on the extent of that, you may need a new dizzy.
Modified by 98TypeSH at 11:03 AM 9/16/2004
EDIT: here you are, meter these locations.
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=969598
If all is fine there, you need to meter the connections on the ECU female connector. Loop the 2 first and if you got no reading, try one at a time to a ground source. If you get no reading, got a dead wire somewhere.
And it wouldent be the cap a rotor, its the actual dizzy housing that the CYP is connected to.
Also, pull your cap and check to see if you got red dust or anything like that on the inside, if so ignitor took a dump. Depending on the extent of that, you may need a new dizzy.
Modified by 98TypeSH at 11:03 AM 9/16/2004
yes. getting a reading from that to ground = bad, replace the dizzy housing or the whole thing. Also, it has to be between 260-460 ohms to be in spec, housing is shot.
Not trying to thread jack, but I just changed my cap and rotor and I saw some red-orange looking dust and thought nothing of it.
Would the ignitor make the car not wanna start sometimes?
Would the ignitor make the car not wanna start sometimes?
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I am also having a problem with it also... I tested my dizzy and i had a ~450 Together, though when I try test it to the ground, it read nothing. Am I connecting everything correctly to get it tested? My helms manual says that i should have from 350 - 700 ohms. Also, when testing to the ecu. Do I need to get those Test harness?
I went through this .. there is a bearring in the dizzy that will go out on you over time, the dust in the cap is the most noticeable sign you've suffered that.
I also had that happen to meand replace my dizz, was throwing code9.
put in a new dizzy and no #9 since.
I also had that happen to meand replace my dizz, was throwing code9.
put in a new dizzy and no #9 since.
there was no testing to be done on the dizzy, when I took off the distributor, the part that goes into the camshaft was actually wiggling, it almost felt like it was going to fall off .. $300 for piece of mind, a fix to the problem was worth it ot me ... especially at 100k miles ... plus all the dust being a good sign the bearring was spun.
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