What are the symptoms of a failing slave cylinder?
Cause I think that's my problem. I was driving-finally-and the next moring I can't get the transmission to engage completely. It engages enough to raise the tach a couple hundred, but not enough to move the car. Like you're slipping the clutch, but not enough to move the car.
There are no leaks by the master cylinder, and the slave cylinder actually actuates with the pedal pressure, but doesn't completely retract once pressure is off the clutch pedal.
Any suggestions?
There are no leaks by the master cylinder, and the slave cylinder actually actuates with the pedal pressure, but doesn't completely retract once pressure is off the clutch pedal.
Any suggestions?
Most of the time a slave cylinder will start to leak. I would try to Change the fluid and bleed the system. You might have gotten moisture in the system and have some rust or corrosion around the piston and the bore of the slave Cylinder. If you are using dot3 it is more likely to attract moisture than the dot4. I think it has something to do with the silicone in the dot4 brake fluid that helps it keep moisture out better. It might fix it for a while. I am having problems with the fluid in My ITR burning up. It will turn black and then the slave wont move as far. It is almost like having air in the system. Well good luck.
I'm having the same problem as flamencoR184, the **** turns black and the pedal feels like ****. I think im gonna try to bleed it all out and use some other kind of fluid. I heard that super blue stuff is real good for brakes. Maybe it would work good for the clutch system as well.
The slave only disengages the clutch- if you have it in gear and the car does not move the clutch is slipping- possibly the release bearing fork is incorrectly installed or the clutch is incorrectly installed or messed up. A failing slave will usually leak fluid and your reservoir will be empty and the clutch will be fully engaged. As far as fluid turning black- suck the fluid out of the reservoir and fill with new fluid, open the slave bleeder for about 10 minutes while maintaining fluid in the reservoir.
[Modified by fixhondas, 12:07 AM 12/10/2001]
[Modified by fixhondas, 12:07 AM 12/10/2001]
Thanks for all the replies y'all. It turns out the problem was the passenger side half shaft-it wasn't completely in the tranny. Strange cause when I installed the new shafts I made sure that they were completely in. I think I may have pulled it out when I was tightening the hub nut. Strange that it would do that. I hope I wasn't given the wrong half shaft although I think I may have. Those things are a major pita to change.
Oh yeah, I figure this out after I installed and spent 50 bucks for a new slave cylinder.
Man this project has nickle and dimed me to death!
Education is not cheap.
On a diff note, I thought with a quaife if I lost one wheel of traction I still had the other. In this particular case, since the passenger side drive shaft wasn't completely in and thus not working, shouldn't I still have the diver's side to pull me along?
[Modified by b18bpwr, 11:14 AM 12/10/2001]
Oh yeah, I figure this out after I installed and spent 50 bucks for a new slave cylinder.
Man this project has nickle and dimed me to death!
Education is not cheap.On a diff note, I thought with a quaife if I lost one wheel of traction I still had the other. In this particular case, since the passenger side drive shaft wasn't completely in and thus not working, shouldn't I still have the diver's side to pull me along?
[Modified by b18bpwr, 11:14 AM 12/10/2001]
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B18pwr-just trying to make sure, did you replace the set ring on the end of the shaft that goes into the differential? If not that could be why it slid out so easily. Just trying to give a possible suggestion why that might happen. HTH.
Yeah, the shafts were new so they had new set rings. Damn, I'm just hoping I don't have to pull the half shaft to fix this.
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