just wondering if anyone has tried this ,if it works it will make the turbo guys happy i know it will make me happy. claims no change for 12 months , and oil wont get dirty....**** for 16 bucks ill buy one.....



any thoughts?

 

is it magic?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Hella_JDM &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">just wondering if anyone has tried this ,if it works it will make the turbo guys happy i know it will make me happy. claims no change for 12 months , and oil wont get dirty....**** for 16 bucks ill buy one.....

any thoughts?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Try it out for the many here. If it fails, let us know whats up.

 

well everyone seems to jock their timing belt , i came across this and wondered if anyone had tried this as well

 

i could try it on my brothers stock civic ex. he rarely ever changes the oil . but then i wouldn't be able to get back to you until a year later to verify and by then i'll forget.

 

I blow up my car often enough to justify changing that it. Does it filter engine debris? I'll show them........

 

16$
I will stick with HAMP (Toyo/roki)
(Stock s2000 BTW)



Modified by si2die4 at 12:48 PM 8/25/2004

 

just by a honda filter...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 1.6i-16zc &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">just by a honda filter...</TD></TR></TABLE>
Are you talkin to me??
NOT ALL HONDA FILTERS ARE THE SAME!

 

oh god, here we go

change your damn oil every 1.5k-3k and shut up.

especially in an FI/built/hi-rev motor ( you really want to risk having chunks floating around in your motor or turbo cause your too damn lazy to change your oil when you should have ? )

and change it with a honda filter - yes theyre not all the same, but just buy a oem filter. less chance of it being a sh*tty filter (yes, toyo roki's seem to be better quality) but the honeywell and fitech filters are made to the honda filter design. not the same as a fram. honda filters have honda's vaiable density filtering material- and 60% more material than a standard filter, p-ring seal for better contact -not just a flat rubber ring, silicone anti-drainback valve to prevent oil from draining back into the motor when shut off. and plus its a honda part, OEM honda


plus changing your own oil gives you a chance to look your car over, and look for anything suspicious in the oil.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Deckedlude &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">is it magic?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Black magic

 

I hope you are not talking to me!

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">and change it with a honda filter - yes theyre not all the same, but just buy a oem filter. less chance of it being a sh*tty filter (yes, toyo roki's seem to be better quality) but the honeywell and fitech filters are made to the honda filter design. not the same as a fram. </TD></TR></TABLE>
&gt;&gt;&gt;US Honda filters PO8 are made by filtec! (Part # 15400-P0H-30?)These filters are no better than the cheep frams at walmart if not worse!
ALL Info from http://www.ntpog.org/reviews/f...shtml
Comments:
This filter looks identical to the Toyo Roki-made JDM filter at first glance- externally the same construction, the only indicator is the "FILTECH" stamped on the outside (a large US manufacturer of filters under various brand names). Internally it's *almost* identical to the JDM filter- steel end caps, steel bypass valve. What makes it stand out as different is the radically different filter media. The material on the Japanese filter looked like the STP or Bosch units. The US media looks much, much worse than the Fram. The media is noticeably "fuzzy" with small fibers protruding out from every angle. While the filter itself is constructed very well (like the Japanese one), the furry nature of the media makes me question how long it lasts and what it will release into the oil system. It also has the least surface area of all the Honda filters (though only a few inches less than the Canadian one).

&gt;&gt;&gt;CAN Honda filters PT7 are made by fram! (Part #15400-PT7-005)
Comments:
Externally, this filter looks like the other 2 Honda filters (except for the "Made in Canada" stamped on the end). All 3 Honda filters have unique part numbers (see the summary tables). This filter, though, when opened, is identical in construction to a Fram. Same "fuzzy" media, dent from string in media, glued cardboard end caps, bypass valve... the build quality looks fine but again, those cardboard pieces don't leave me with a very warm feeling. With increased surface area and increased inlet area, though, this filter should flow more than either of the FRAM units.

Dissasembly of a used filter shows that some of the fibers do part from the filter. While the detail can't be seen in the photo above, there were fibers that were "hung up" in the perforated center portion. The material did not look quite as "fuzzy" as it did new, which I presume is from some fibers having left the filter. This filter had 1000 hard miles over the course of one month on it. The cardboard was perfectly intact, though I suspect this would deteriorate over time.

&gt;&gt;&gt;And the <U>mother</U> of filters Honda s2000 (HAMP/Toyo Roki/Honda) PCX/Old PR3
(these did not use to be available in the US but now they are RECPLACEMENT peices for the s2000) (part # 15400-pcx-004)
Comments:
&gt;&gt;&gt;As is the case with Hondas in North America, Japan has at least two suppliers of filters: Toyo Roki and Tennex. The Toyo Roki filter is the new filter shown above (and described below). This filter was obtained as a "replacement" part. The used filter that is shown dissasembled (over the oil pan) is made by Tennex. This filter is what came on my new S2000; I would assume that it is the filter used on new Hondas made in Japan. This filter is almost identical to the Vic filter tested below, except for the smaller size and 51 pleats (instead of 54). Though I have not dissasembled the Tennex JDM filter and measured it, I would expect to see only slightly less surface area due to the smaller size of the Toyo Roki (see below).

Anyone familiar with Hondas knows that the Japanese keep the best for themselves. This aparently applies to oil filters as well. The Toyo Roki uses steel end caps, a steel bypass valve (with very stiff spring), and a media that looks similar in thickness and quality to the STP and Bosch filters. This unit uses the same end caps and bypass valve that the US-made Honda filter uses. Something interesting, though, that's unique to the Toyo Roki filter is the unequal-length pleats (see above). I'm not sure why they are like this, but none of the other filters (including the JDM Tennex, Vic, and HAMP) that were tested had this.

It should be noted that these filters are NOT available in the North America at all- they are only available in Japan, the orient, and more than likely the UK and Australia. The only way to get one from Honda in the US is to purchase a new Honda made in Japan- this is the filter that they put on the car in their factories (the Tennex). Here, you will likely get either the US-made or Canadian made filters. In the US, if you order the JDM part number, you will be subbed a US or Canadian filter instead. So far there is no one known to be importing these filters, you will have to find one and have it shipped yourself. The filter tested here was purchased over-the-counter in Hong Kong (the price listed has been converted from HK$).
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">honda filters have honda's vaiable density filtering material- and 60% more material than a standard filter </TD></TR></TABLE>
NOT TRUE on all filters at all!

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">and plus its a honda part, OEM honda </TD></TR></TABLE>
If Honda jumped off a bridge, would you do it?? lol

 

If you are planning on using this filter for an extended change interval I don't recommend it. An Oil and Filter change is one of the easiest and quickest maintainance items to do and extremely important for any engine that is going to be pushed hard, especially an FI one.

If you want to use the filter b/c it seems to be a super high quality filter since it's designed to be run for so long, I don't recommend it either. It probably has a relatively porous filter media so that it doesn't clog due to the extended drain interval. Thus your oil will be dirtier, not cleaner.

Unless somebody does an oil analysis on the oil used between this filter and some other filter, nobody will really know if it does it's job or if it's hype.

 

I dont have my digi with me cause im at work (at a honda dealership) or i would take a picture of the filters i have here infront of me. I have the toyo-roki, and yes, i think that is a better quality, i also have a filtech and i do think those arent as good.... but i would still use it over a wallmart/microguard or whatever whitch i also have here in front of me.
my information came right out of a honda oil filter application chart/product information brochure

i was posting to try to keep HellaJDM from using one of those jank no change filters and potentially costing him an engine(unless he doesnt care). I agree with your source that the canadian(honeywell 15400-plm-a02) suck, and the filtech is not that far off. pcx (toyo roki) filter on my car.

and no, if honda jumped off a bridge i would not. ]
and its a 15400-p0h-305(not p08) - whitch now superscedes to a 15400-plm-a01/a02(the small one)

how often do you change your oil?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by b23eight &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
and its a 15400-p0h-305(not p08) - whitch now superscedes to a 15400-plm-a01/a02(the small one)

how often do you change your oil?
</TD></TR></TABLE>
That is correct with those part #'s
I change my oil every 2,000 miles apx. with mobil1 syn 10w-30 I also change my trany fluid (HMTF) and plugs (BKR7E) every 6K and my fuel filter (honda) every 10K
Somtimes I change my plugs every other oil change.

 

I hate to be a nay-sayer, and nothing personal, but who really gives a ****? If you are boosting your car, and actually driving it, it will probably give up the ghost, long before 250k miles. Hell, I'd say most people ****-up and have to rebuild within 20-50k miles of boosting (this is purely my casual observation, though, but I feel it's correct.)

If you have a serious drag-race car, just buy the 99¢ oil from Wal-mart and their cheapest oil, because this is not the determining factor in the life of your engine. The fact that you will either melt a piston or send a rod through the block, is more likely, IMO.

If, however, you don't drive your car hard and/or it's not boosted and making twice as much power as it was intended to...it still doesn't matter how often you change your oil!
Read below and then use google to find many other interesting resources.
http://neptune.spacebears.com/....html

If you really want your engine to last longer, get a pre-oiler or electric oil pump, since most engine wear (under normal conditions) occurs in the first few seconds of start-up, since there is 0 (ZERO) oil pressure.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by b23eight &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">oh god, here we go

change your damn oil every 1.5k-3k and shut up.

</TD></TR></TABLE>

i change my oil every thousand miles you ******* idiot do you really think id leave the same filter on for a year? im intererested in their clams that the oil will be alot cleaner.
let me go ahead and risk my aebs block for a 16 dollar filter , ya right.

 

ARE YOU TALKING TO ME?! lol

 

UH O!! Everyone is turning E-THUG!!! Everyone get your homies and your piece!! We gonna have us a shoot out!! Bunch of crack heads, its a ******* oil filter, get over yourself.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Hella_JDM &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">any thoughts?</TD></TR></TABLE>

theres no magic to filters, it will get dirty just like any other filter. no matter what you use, apply same intervals of time between changing. longer you wait, more dirt it collects and at some point it won't be as efficient.

i change my oil every 2K miles and filter every 4K miles.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 95GSRTT &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">UH O!! Everyone is turning E-THUG!!! Everyone get your homies and your piece!! We gonna have us a shoot out!! Bunch of crack heads, its a ******* oil filter, get over yourself. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Muahhahahhahahhahahaahhaha. lol. Right on Brotha!

 

Exactly. I change my oil and filter every 3k.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Muckman &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ARE YOU TALKING TO ME?! lol</TD></TR></TABLE>
Funny Man