Someone told me something like "your vtec wont work if you use the black box on the GReddy turbo kit

My car is a 95 OBD1 d16z6

is this true?

how can I know this?

wich wire on the solenoid can I tamper to know?

 

anyone?

hello?...

 

If you don't notice anything wrong when you get in the high rpm range, you know it's working. If you start losing power above 5k, then you know it's not working. If you really want to test it, I think there should only be one wire going to the solenoid, cut it and notice the difference.

 

how can I build a temporary VTEC light?

wich wires???

to the ecu or in the solenoid?

heeeeelp again!

 

yeah I would like to know how to build a vtec light as well. Let us know how.

 

Umm..i dont' know about u guyz...but once i got a short ram intake ages ago on my SOHC vtec..i could hear vtec engage.....and also feel the difference..compared to my friend when he fucked up his wiring...lol...and it cut off his vtec...but if u can't hear it..then..i dunno what to tell you...its a very distinguishable sound....

My two cents,
Khoi

P.S..its nothing like a DOHC vtec...but u can still hear SOHC Vtec engage...

 

take ur vtec wire, and jump it to a LED. so let the LED stand as a bypass to ur vtec wire. so when current flows, the LEd should light when vtec hits.

 

and the other wire to ground? thats it?

 

Where is my vtec wire? I am still learning. Thanks for your help.

 

i dont think thats true...vtec should work fine. You should beable to feel/hear vtec kick in at 4800 rpms.

liam

 

Try here....
http://www.hazone.com/howto/vlight.htm

 

I cant hear the vtec... the turbo is really loud

 

Thanxs

Iīll make one with a blue led, kinda playstation 2

 

It is at 5500, not 4800 (unless the black box reprograms it and I don't know about it). Put it in 2nd and take it slowly to 4000, then floor it. As it passes 5500RPM you should hear a change in the sound. When that sound changes (in higher RPM band), that is when VTEC activates.

 

red or green 12v LED from rat shack. I used a Bosch relay in the wire to the VTEC solenoid. I mount the relay and LED just below the hazard switch. That way I can here the relay and see the switch.

BTW VTEC on SOHC can switch over between 4800 rpm and 5300 rpm on a REAL tach. Add 200 rpm higher if you are reading a factory tach.

WOT VTEC switchover is at 4800 rpm on REAL tach, 5000 rpm on a stock tach.

 

not all stock tach's are equal either...

i had a stock 97 ex, my rev limiter in neutral for my stock tach was 7400, in my friend's 96 ex with my stock ecu, his rev limiter was 7000 even, im not trying to prove you wrong, just point out my experience - neither instrument cluster was ever touched, so the calibration should not have been affected

vtec SHOULD be 4800 at wot, no doubt there.

 

Crossover point on my stock '96 ex on stock tach at WOT is 5500, which would be *roughly* 5300 on a real tach, but that's still nowhere near 4800.

 

Well In A SOHC... Vtec barely kicks in.....(well actually, you can barely feel Vtec) If you open ur down pipe. You can actually here vtec kick in. WHat I did when my lsvtec's vtec did not kick in, I installed a V-afc vtec controller.. and after that....It started to work.. Wehn you start the car (cold) vtec will not owrk because it needs oil to run up to the solenoid. Vtec operates when the car is warm.

 

is it true vtec doesnt work well with turbos? ive been told by a couple turob guys that most of time when the cars are turboed, vtec is turned off cause vtec and the high boost dont fuctin well together in the high rpms.

 

 

thanks...my head hurts now...

 

Well, there is at least some truth to this. One of the objects of VTEC is to open the valves more at high RPM to allow better flow into (and out of) the cylinder. The purpose of a turbo is to literally cram air down the engine's throat, forcing it into the cylinder in greater quantities. If you have the exhaust valve open too much (VTEC) then there is the possibility of valve blow-by occuring. This is where the air/fuel mixture coming in the intake valve comes it at such speed and quantity, that it starts escaping out the exhaust valve before it closes. This causes a loss in power.

note to others: yes I know blow-by is most likely the result of excessive valve overlap, but greater overlap automatically occurs when the valve lift is greater (unless specifically tuned out which VTEC does not do).