Brake pad install
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From: US
Brake pad install
ok, ive been told changing brake pads are about as easy as changing your oil...yet ive never done it and am going to be attempting it by myself tonight. I got a front set of EBC Greenstuff pads and was wondering if anyone had a reliable link for a how to install or give me some quick pointers. Thanks.
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From: NJ
Re: (.RJ)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by .RJ »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You forgot about pushing the caliper piston back in, cleaning/lubing slide pins....
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That too
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That too
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From: NJ
Re: (thk)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by thk »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">And watching out for fluid overflow from your reservoir when you push back the pistons. That's if you topped off your brake fluid.</TD></TR></TABLE>
who cares?
who cares?
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From: RIP Craig Jones
Re: (El Pollo Diablo)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by El Pollo Diablo »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">all of j00s forgot to put the car on jackstands before taking wheels off
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Joo dont have hydroz?
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Joo dont have hydroz?
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From: US
Re: Brake pad install (Bbasso)
i have the choice between the Greenstuffs or Axxis metal master (i heard they will eat up stock rotors) or Hawk ferro carbons (which are like $85)...i have $70 worth of gift cert. to pepboys so the greenstuff's and the axxis are technically 'free'
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From: Hype R less in Pa...
Re: Brake pad install (98cwitr)
Cobalt GT Sports are for street, auto X, and HPDE's...
a bit cheaper, but for the street only, I've been hearing good things about the Autozone Performance Carbon Metallic or whatever pads...
Axxiss Ultimates work well for street and autocross, but dust like a ****.
stockers are pretty good too. (nice and quiet, and low dust)
for street, auto X, and HPDE's...a bit cheaper, but for the street only, I've been hearing good things about the Autozone Performance Carbon Metallic or whatever pads...
Axxiss Ultimates work well for street and autocross, but dust like a ****.
stockers are pretty good too. (nice and quiet, and low dust)
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From: RIP Craig Jones
Re: Brake pad install (98cwitr)
All of those pads suck.
for street use, Axxis ultimates (if you dont mind dust), Carbotech Bobcat (more $$, less dust), Cobalt GT-Sport are all good pads. Or just stick with OEM and spend the Gift cert on a few cases of oil.
for street use, Axxis ultimates (if you dont mind dust), Carbotech Bobcat (more $$, less dust), Cobalt GT-Sport are all good pads. Or just stick with OEM and spend the Gift cert on a few cases of oil.
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From: Hype R less in Pa...
Re: Brake pad install (.RJ)
better not be talking to me bitchass!
I just swapped my OEM pads back in for the street, and man they are nice and quiet, and don't dust at all! I forgot how good they work for daily driving...
I just swapped my OEM pads back in for the street, and man they are nice and quiet, and don't dust at all! I forgot how good they work for daily driving...
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From: Jasma
Re: Brake pad install (.RJ)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by .RJ »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> Or just stick with OEM and spend the Gift cert on a few cases of oil.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Pepboys doesn't carry the german-made Castrol 0-W30 though....
which made the dipstick gasket green, btw.....
Pepboys doesn't carry the german-made Castrol 0-W30 though....
which made the dipstick gasket green, btw.....
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From: Vancity, b.c, CANADA
Re: Brake pad install (98cwitr)
Searched for: brake pad change
Forum: ITR
Archived threads.
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=157429
Some pics are missing but you get the point.
I am the new search ****.
Forum: ITR
Archived threads.
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=157429
Some pics are missing but you get the point.
I am the new search ****.
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From: Bellingham, WA, sucka
Re: Brake pad install (Cosworth)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Cosworth »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">rotors are cheap. go w/ metal masters (out of those 2 choices). when the pads chew up the rotors, just go get blank rotors from pepboys or autozone.</TD></TR></TABLE>
don't forget to have your new rotrs turned. in the past 10 months, i have done at least 70-80 brake jobs and about half of those were w/ new rotors. i notice that napa or autozone like to mention that their new rotors don't need to be turned. HAHA!!! in ALL of those sets of "new" rotors, only 2 sets were within spec, and didn't need at least 3 passes with the brake lathe.
just fyi. always get new rotors turned.
don't forget to have your new rotrs turned. in the past 10 months, i have done at least 70-80 brake jobs and about half of those were w/ new rotors. i notice that napa or autozone like to mention that their new rotors don't need to be turned. HAHA!!! in ALL of those sets of "new" rotors, only 2 sets were within spec, and didn't need at least 3 passes with the brake lathe.
just fyi. always get new rotors turned.
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Re: Brake pad install (Mike K)
i dont see why you would need to machine new rotors.
usually when i install them on a car i just sand them down so they arent ciruclar and the brake pads wont ride them the wrong way.
when i cut them i do that also.
he might not even need new ones on yours, itr rotors are pretty thick. you should be able to get 2 cuts out of them.
remmeber to flush the brake fluid completely,
i like to gravity bleed the system. its easier if you have someone there pumping the pedal tho.
also remember that the rear calipers can not be pushed back in they must be 'screwed' back in. leave the bleeder OPEN when pushing the pistons back into caliper.
like someone said, grease the pivoting bolts.
make sure to wipe off all dirt with brake parts cleaner or a similar cleaner off the rotors once everything has been assembled.
make sure you have an impact screw driver or you will never get off the 2 screws that hold the rotor on.
if the rotor is stuck even after 2 taps with the hammer, get a piece of wood and rest it against the rotor and then beat the wood with the hammer to prevent damage to the rotor.
usually when i install them on a car i just sand them down so they arent ciruclar and the brake pads wont ride them the wrong way.
when i cut them i do that also.
he might not even need new ones on yours, itr rotors are pretty thick. you should be able to get 2 cuts out of them.
remmeber to flush the brake fluid completely,
i like to gravity bleed the system. its easier if you have someone there pumping the pedal tho.
also remember that the rear calipers can not be pushed back in they must be 'screwed' back in. leave the bleeder OPEN when pushing the pistons back into caliper.
like someone said, grease the pivoting bolts.
make sure to wipe off all dirt with brake parts cleaner or a similar cleaner off the rotors once everything has been assembled.
make sure you have an impact screw driver or you will never get off the 2 screws that hold the rotor on.
if the rotor is stuck even after 2 taps with the hammer, get a piece of wood and rest it against the rotor and then beat the wood with the hammer to prevent damage to the rotor.
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From: Molde, Norway
Re: (.RJ)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by .RJ »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You forgot about pushing the caliper piston back in, cleaning/lubing slide pins....
EBC pads suck ***. No ifs ands or buts about it.</TD></TR></TABLE>
What's wrong with the Greenstuff pads? I have them on my car and cant say they suck ***, works better tham stock pads for street driving, which is what i use them for.
EBC pads suck ***. No ifs ands or buts about it.</TD></TR></TABLE>
What's wrong with the Greenstuff pads? I have them on my car and cant say they suck ***, works better tham stock pads for street driving, which is what i use them for.
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From: RIP Craig Jones
Re: Brake pad install (IVI)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by IVI »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">if the rotor is stuck even after 2 taps with the hammer</TD></TR></TABLE>
Then use the bolt holes instead... no noise, no effort.
Then use the bolt holes instead... no noise, no effort.
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