Originally Posted by boostincoupe

Alrighty, it's finally time for a new OEM headgasket and ARP headstuds for my D16Y8.

While the head's off, I'm going to get it resurfaced and replace my water pump (OEM Honda) and accessory belts (timing belt's already been replaced). I believe my head is warped for sure (been overheating for 8 months or so), but I need to know how to check if my block is warped and what steps I should take to get it back to it's proper surface level.

Now, on to the headgasket / headstud install.

-What brand / type of copper spray do you recommend? I've heard that Hylomar is good to use (whatever that is).
I just picked up whatever napa or kragen had, it worked fine for me.

Let's come together and figure out the proper torque specs for my head-lifting SOHC beast.

-ARP says 60 ft./lbs. with their lube, or 70 ft./lbs. with 10w-30 oil. Should I torque the headstuds to 60 ft./lbs., drive for 100 miles, then re-torque them to 65 ft./lbs. for good measure?
I used oil on mine, and they were torqued to 65#. This is on a d16a6

-Do I have to take the head off again to re-torque the headstuds?
Definitely not. Just the valve cover

-In regards to torquing the headstuds, how does the double-nut method work? I've never tried it. Hand tight is what's recommended, right?
The directions say hand tight, for mine there was a spot for an allen wrench on top of the studs. I used an allen wrench to tighten them down to the bottom. I just used it to get to the bottom, didn't push too hard. Not sure if this is suggested or not

-When I torque them down, how many steps are recommended? 3? 5?
I think you'd be fine just doing 3 steps or so. I dont even think I did that, I think I just tightened them the first time, and then double checked.

-One of my exhaust manifold nuts is broken off. Is it easy to replace when the head is off the block? How do I do it?
It's easy. Is the stud still sticking out a lil? Just take some vice grips and unscrew it out. Buy another and replace. (if it's a tight fit screwing back in, use the double nut method

-Do I need to take the intake manifold off when removing the head?
I did, just to make things easier. I just disconnected it from the head and left it in the engine bay still connected to everything.

-I have a Haynes manual for my car. Will that be sufficient for proper torque specs. and whatnot?
Not sure, I used to have haynes. But then I bought a helms online and have never looked back. The helms is god for anything you do!!! You might be able to find a copy online

-Do I need to replace both my oil and coolant? I'm figuring yes, but it doesn't hurt to ask.
I just drained all the oil, and then drained the coolant from the bolt in the front of the block. This way I dont have to replace ALL of the coolant, but it's below the head surface so I dont get it all over.

-Do I need to remove the cam from the head before I remove the head?
no you don't have to, but it'd probably be easier to remove it first

I'm sure I have a shitload of other questions, but I'll stop here.

Keep in mind: I've installed my own turbo kit, done a valve adjustment and helped install my clutch, but I have never removed a head from a block. So I know nothing as far as various tips and typical procedures involved.

Help a H-Ter and many others out! I even said please, bitches.