10,200 rpm on stock h22a. oops
So im at the dragstrip, with my sticky tires, and my grabby-*** clutch. And I shift through first and second and third, then instead of going into fourth like everyone else, i went back into second, since i guess i am dumb. I was shifting at 8000, and went from third to second, so i think i went to about 10,200.
I shut my **** off immediately, it made a revlimiter from death sound, and backfired alot for about 1/2 second.
so at the end of the strip, it started up, and drove back to the pits fine.
now it does everything like it used to, sounds the same etc, same CELs and just does not idle. it will just die if i let off of the gas peadel.
so what gives
jumped timing?
map sensor?
IAC?
I shut my **** off immediately, it made a revlimiter from death sound, and backfired alot for about 1/2 second.
so at the end of the strip, it started up, and drove back to the pits fine.
now it does everything like it used to, sounds the same etc, same CELs and just does not idle. it will just die if i let off of the gas peadel.
so what gives
jumped timing?
map sensor?
IAC?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EGmikeH22 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">So im at the dragstrip, with my sticky tires, and my grabby-*** clutch. And I shift through first and second and third, then instead of going into fourth like everyone else, i went back into second, since i guess i am dumb. I was shifting at 8000, and went from third to second, so i think i went to about 10,200.
I shut my **** off immediately, it made a revlimiter from death sound, and backfired alot for about 1/2 second.
so at the end of the strip, it started up, and drove back to the pits fine.
now it does everything like it used to, sounds the same etc, same CELs and just does not idle. it will just die if i let off of the gas peadel.
so what gives
jumped timing?
map sensor?
IAC?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Bent valves are almost a sure thing at this point...a rough idle is usually a tell-tale sign of bent valves. The whole top end of the engine is probably screwed up at this point, the bottom end might be as well. Oftentimes, the only way to be sure is to open the engine up. If the engine is leaking fluids however, you're in for a lot.
I shut my **** off immediately, it made a revlimiter from death sound, and backfired alot for about 1/2 second.
so at the end of the strip, it started up, and drove back to the pits fine.
now it does everything like it used to, sounds the same etc, same CELs and just does not idle. it will just die if i let off of the gas peadel.
so what gives
jumped timing?
map sensor?
IAC?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Bent valves are almost a sure thing at this point...a rough idle is usually a tell-tale sign of bent valves. The whole top end of the engine is probably screwed up at this point, the bottom end might be as well. Oftentimes, the only way to be sure is to open the engine up. If the engine is leaking fluids however, you're in for a lot.
Compression first (you'll know how good the seal is on the rings and valves then) then do the leakdown. From the sounds of it though I'd say your head is lost. The piston velocity at those speeds will have probly scoreb the rod bearings and damaged the rod/rodbolts in general. The F3 h22a engine is de stroked so it can rev to 11k, the stock stroke is just too great to exceed 9 o a fully built allmotor.
The comp. & leakdown numbers will tell the whole story though, Good luck bro
The comp. & leakdown numbers will tell the whole story though, Good luck bro
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Speedra500 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">It sounds like your car as mad at you for over revving and it will probably idle ok in a few days
</TD></TR></TABLE> yeah... after those valves bend back in place.
</TD></TR></TABLE> yeah... after those valves bend back in place.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by killa_lude »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i did that too once on accident. i popped it out off gear in a split second and when i drove the car back it was fine...no problems at all.</TD></TR></TABLE>
OEM Valves have millions of dollars in research done to make them super flexible and can bend up to 90 degrees and revert back to their original shape in 24 hours.
Try it!
OEM Valves have millions of dollars in research done to make them super flexible and can bend up to 90 degrees and revert back to their original shape in 24 hours.
Try it!
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SuperSlow »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
OEM Valves have millions of dollars in research done to make them super flexible and can bend up to 90 degrees and revert back to their original shape in 24 hours.
Try it!
</TD></TR></TABLE>
LOL funny
Anyways, my brother did the same with his 5th gen, went from 4th to 2nd and bent all his exhaust valves.
OEM Valves have millions of dollars in research done to make them super flexible and can bend up to 90 degrees and revert back to their original shape in 24 hours.
Try it!
</TD></TR></TABLE>LOL funny
Anyways, my brother did the same with his 5th gen, went from 4th to 2nd and bent all his exhaust valves.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by caLiH22A »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
LOL funny
Anyways, my brother did the same with his 5th gen, went from 4th to 2nd and bent all his exhaust valves. </TD></TR></TABLE>
damn 5th gens!
LOL funny
Anyways, my brother did the same with his 5th gen, went from 4th to 2nd and bent all his exhaust valves. </TD></TR></TABLE>
damn 5th gens!
Without a doubt you bent your valves. You know they're bent because it does not idle correctly. Sorry i know, this is bad news and it sucks but yeah, your valves are bent. How do i know, i did the exact same thing about 4 months ago, i have heard lude tyrranys are notorious for this, i was surprised because i found alot of people who did this on their ludes. All 8 of my exhaust valves were bent too. Have a compression check. The compression should be about 200 in all the cylinders if they're not bent, but they are. I guess the cost of fixing mine wasn't that bad, about 1600 for the new valves, gasket, having to have it checked, a valve adjustment, he cleaned out the throttle body, got new spark plugs, and new timing belt,system scan, 1600. Good luck man
I'm still waiting to hear why you can't turn a built H22 9K. I know a LOT of pro guys that run way longer strokes than 90.7 and turn over 10K. How are they doing it then? How are guys with LS and GSR cranks turning 11K? Please explain the piston speed theory and why these guys can get away with it.
Hate to say it man but you bent the valves. I just did the same thing last week, but i was on the highway and missed the shift in the h22 and went to 10 grand. Mine wouldnt even start back. I bent every exhaust valve but i am replacing all of them. I also shattered the valve guides. If you need parts the supertech valves are what i went with. They are only 12.99 each where honda wants $22 for exhaust valves and 31 for intake. Good Luck getting it fixed man
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SuperSlow »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
OEM Valves have millions of dollars in research done to make them super flexible and can bend up to 90 degrees and revert back to their original shape in 24 hours.
Try it!
</TD></TR></TABLE>
ya all you have to do is put it in the freezer overnight and they go back into shape.
seriously, they're probly bent, do as all is saying and you will know. but know your not the only one to do this. its called the money shift. i did it twice. once nothing happened. second time bent every valve!
OEM Valves have millions of dollars in research done to make them super flexible and can bend up to 90 degrees and revert back to their original shape in 24 hours.
Try it!
</TD></TR></TABLE>ya all you have to do is put it in the freezer overnight and they go back into shape.
seriously, they're probly bent, do as all is saying and you will know. but know your not the only one to do this. its called the money shift. i did it twice. once nothing happened. second time bent every valve!
well we're putting on the compression checker today, but im not sure everyone knows what is happening.
the motor just wont run under 1000rpm.
its not that it runs incorrectly, it will just drop out and die. like there is a bad map or something.
we may have to pull the head, and find some bent valves, but compression is first, and timing check is second, then we'll see if we need to pull it.
now the sucky part is that the engine is in a civic, and it will need to be pulled to be worked on.
off to west side honda to see what we can do with the compression checker, but the techs seem to think im fine.
it drives like normal from 1-3k rpm, just wont idle, plenty of power and everything which i dont think would happen with bent valves.
if they're bent i think im gonna try that freezer trick, works with hard drives and dvds (actually works with hard drives and dvds)
the motor just wont run under 1000rpm.
its not that it runs incorrectly, it will just drop out and die. like there is a bad map or something.
we may have to pull the head, and find some bent valves, but compression is first, and timing check is second, then we'll see if we need to pull it.
now the sucky part is that the engine is in a civic, and it will need to be pulled to be worked on.
off to west side honda to see what we can do with the compression checker, but the techs seem to think im fine.
it drives like normal from 1-3k rpm, just wont idle, plenty of power and everything which i dont think would happen with bent valves.
if they're bent i think im gonna try that freezer trick, works with hard drives and dvds (actually works with hard drives and dvds)
well we did everything today, and its fine now.
the compression numbers were 200, 175, 175, 180.
We checked the valve lash with feeler gauges, and everything was about .002 to .005. wayyy to tight.
so reset the exhaust so that a .007 would slip in and a .008 would not. then the intake with a ,006 and .007.
retorqued to 14ftlbs and rechecked all clearances.
restarted the engine, adjusted the idle, and got it to stay under 1000rpm.
now the compression numbers
210, 190, 190, 215
yayyy
but it still does not idle under 800 without dieing on startup. if it is running we can dial it down to about 750 (Digital tach) but if i restart, i have to give it gas for it to initially stabilize
so now im just idleing a little higher, hearing my valvetrain a little louder, and driving a little faster with my new compression.
i guess i got lucky wiht the money shift eh?
the compression numbers were 200, 175, 175, 180.
We checked the valve lash with feeler gauges, and everything was about .002 to .005. wayyy to tight.
so reset the exhaust so that a .007 would slip in and a .008 would not. then the intake with a ,006 and .007.
retorqued to 14ftlbs and rechecked all clearances.
restarted the engine, adjusted the idle, and got it to stay under 1000rpm.
now the compression numbers
210, 190, 190, 215
yayyy
but it still does not idle under 800 without dieing on startup. if it is running we can dial it down to about 750 (Digital tach) but if i restart, i have to give it gas for it to initially stabilize
so now im just idleing a little higher, hearing my valvetrain a little louder, and driving a little faster with my new compression.
i guess i got lucky wiht the money shift eh?
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