Well I was out on a drive the other night and one of my bolts came loose from my manifold/turbo and fell out. I still had 3 intact so I cruised the rest of the way home at low speeds. Upon trying to retighten the screw it seemed it was stripped and I couldn't really tighten it like the others, felt like I was getting like half of a thread and couldn't quite get a good tighten.

Now I've tried lock-tite and tried a lock washer, but i can't turn the bolt hard enough to effectively use the lock washer so I just took that off.

What I was wondering if is anybody has used the "permanent" lock-tite. The highest rated one for making sure something doesn't go loose. I know that you guys are going to say well if you want to remove the bolt then you can't use the permanent. Well to be honest I don't want to ever remove the bolt. I can keep the manifold and turbo attached. Im not going to upgrade either, just going to up the boost a bit maybe in the future, so thats not what im worried about. Im just wondering if it'll work, I mean if im only getting a half of thread and I use the permanent locktite will it hold if I let it sit over night for about 24 hours. I just don't want any leaks from this anymore. Im sick of tightening **** and getting leaks. This time I am really pissed because its not something that i've been able to fix in an hour or so. Ive tried a few different methods and each time its coming lose, which in turn is giving me a shitty leak and the car has basically no power and sounds horrible. I just want to be able to enjoy the car and boost. So, I would like to use the permanent stuff, should I? What are the risks? Also, do you think it'll lock that bolt in there effectively?

Any other advice would be nice. I don't want to go to a machine shop and get it rethreaded or whatever, so please don't say that. If you have any ideas please let me know, im in need of having my GSR-T at full strength. This bolt has been keeping me off the road and has been pissing me off.

Thanks in advance

 

why cant you tighten the bolt hard enough, are the threads of the manifold messed up? if they are cant you use a tap to clean them up?

 

well you can always dip the bolts in jbweld then tighten them up or weld them on...
but what happens when your turbo goes bad and you need a rebuild?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by igo4bmx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">well you can always dip the bolts in jbweld then tighten them up or weld them on...
but what happens when your turbo goes bad and you need a rebuild?</TD></TR></TABLE>

instead of doing that, why not find a stud with the same thread, and jbweld that in the hole, and use a nut to fasten the turbo on, that way if you do have to take the turbo off you got no problems...

that is if jbweld will stand up to the temps of the turbo manifold...

Mike...

 

I had that problem a few times...and I had enough of that...so what I did....I use the metal from the coat hanger....cut 2 pieces long enough to reach one bolt to the other. I had those pieces welded on top of the bolt to keep them from moving. Just a little spot weld is good enough, that way when you need to take them off...just twist them hard enough to get them loose.

Diagram? kinda look like this.... ===&gt; O----O &lt;===Top of bolts with metal welded connecting the two.
O----O


Working great so far.

 

if you want, re-tap the threads and use a different sized bolt. Why don't you just use two nuts, like tighten the first one to put pressure on the turbo flange, and then thread on another nut. With that other nut threaded on, put a wrench on the top nut and hold it tight, while you tighten the second nut against that one.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by igo4bmx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">well you can always dip the bolts in jbweld then tighten them up or weld them on...
but what happens when your turbo goes bad and you need a rebuild?</TD></TR></TABLE>

I took this advice. I just welded the bolt with JB weld (I scattered it amongst the bolt not completely caked but scattered, hopefully it works. I did happen to grab a good portion of a thread so it locked pretty tight on my final tug). Hopefully it works. Its my last ditch effort before I have to rethread the holes which means I gotta take **** apart . Hopefully this works. Im letting it sit 24 hours then ill test it. Ill let you know how it goes. If it works for a period of time I may loosen all of them and repeat this process for every bolt.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Group Tenacity &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

instead of doing that, why not find a stud with the same thread, and jbweld that in the hole, and use a nut to fasten the turbo on, that way if you do have to take the turbo off you got no problems...

that is if jbweld will stand up to the temps of the turbo manifold...

Mike...

</TD></TR></TABLE>

I was trying to do this but I couldn't find a stud short enough, its in the back in a really tough spot to work with (like barely enough room for my finger to fit underneath the bolt when its tightened). I had to buy shorty wrenches just to tighten the bolt. So I had to just keep the same bolt......

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by cinq &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I had that problem a few times...and I had enough of that...so what I did....I use the metal from the coat hanger....cut 2 pieces long enough to reach one bolt to the other. I had those pieces welded on top of the bolt to keep them from moving. Just a little spot weld is good enough, that way when you need to take them off...just twist them hard enough to get them loose.

Diagram? kinda look like this.... ===&gt; O----O &lt;===Top of bolts with metal welded connecting the two.
O----O


Working great so far. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Thanks for the idea. Im going to do this if it holds up over the weekend. I wonder if JB weld would do the trick? Because I have some still in the containers to use.

 

Try using heat-treated bolts or studs. Make sure you also use lock-washers if you are using the studs. I had that problem last time with my wastegate and the damn bolts holding it backed off and totally came out. Non heat-treated bolts have the tendency of doing this with high temperature and vibration.

 

Lock washers will fatigue from the intense heat and relax, rendering them usless. Locktite will also be destroyed from the heat.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by cinq &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I had that problem a few times...and I had enough of that...so what I did....I use the metal from the coat hanger....cut 2 pieces long enough to reach one bolt to the other. I had those pieces welded on top of the bolt to keep them from moving. Just a little spot weld is good enough, that way when you need to take them off...just twist them hard enough to get them loose. Diagram? kinda look like this.... ===&gt; O----O &lt;===Top of bolts with metal welded connecting the two.
O----O


Working great so far. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Thats a good idea. Safety wire would work as well.

 

ya I do like that welded wire trick have to try it next time i got a leaker.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by patdemps &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I was trying to do this but I couldn't find a stud short enough</TD></TR></TABLE>

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=874030

Don't you know....Stan has your back

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by xenocron &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=874030

Don't you know....Stan has your back </TD></TR></TABLE>

thanks for that link. im going to buy that stud kit this week


as far as the jbweld went. it backed out. no luck....didn't even last 20 minutes.

i went down to the store and got 2 studs w/ nuts. im going to try that out tomorrow and see how that works. i actually think i can get a longer stud in there because the only reason i couldn't get a longer bolt in there was because the head of the bolt was hitting so i couldn't get it in cleanly, so maybe the studs will do the trick. either way im definately getting that 20 dollar set from Stan

 

ever tried those safty wire bolts, with the holes drilled in the heads for safety wire to be strung thru?