Loose Turbo and Manifold Bolts
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Loose Turbo and Manifold Bolts
I searched but didn't find an answer on this... Every now and then (every week or soo) I notice a few of my mani and or bolts attaching my turbo to the mani coming loose or even coming ou! I have hearfd similar complaints from others about this. Each time I buy new lock washers and tighten the sh*t out of them. Is there any kind of compound out there that will keep the bolts from getting loose????
#2
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Re: Loose Turbo and Manifold Bolts (blocburner1)
My manifold also did this for awhile til i got motor mount inserts. they havent come loose since. Hope you get it figured out
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Re: Loose Turbo and Manifold Bolts (blocburner1)
What type of manifold is it? I have been having the same problems until I realized that my EGTs were too high. I lowered the EGTs, and now I don't have the problem anymore except for this damn wastegate bolt that I could barley get a wrench on. Get an EGT probe and read your EGTs. Then put a **** load of lock tight on the bolts.
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Re: Loose Turbo and Manifold Bolts (blocburner1)
it depends on the type of LW. typical split lock and internal/external teeth washers don't last in the high heat environment of a manifold. cheap fix is to double-nut.
search for lockwashers.
search for lockwashers.
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Re: (killerB16A)
if your t3/t4 flange has threads itself thread a bolt completely thru...and put a nut on the other end...do you have a flex pipe on your downpipe to relieve the tension from the motor rocking back and fourth
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#9
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loctite will burn off...lock washers usually dont work w/ very vibration prone cars....what ive found to work absolutely awesome.....and havent had any other bolts come loose since...is copper rtv....apply a lil to the threads like loctite...tighten it up and torque it...the rtv burns off once it gets tight and the remaining sticky residue holds the bolts in perfectly.....and to clean it out if you ever want to...a lil brake cleaner & brush work awesome....
and btw ^ the teflon will burn right off...and u just spent $.50 on a reg nut ;-)
and btw ^ the teflon will burn right off...and u just spent $.50 on a reg nut ;-)
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Re: (VTteg)
loctite 272 (hi temp/hi strength) is only good for 450degreeF
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 1Quikgsr »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">use some red locktite at your auto store. </TD></TR></TABLE>
http://tds.loctite.com/tds5/docs/272-EN.pdf
<U>nylon</U> in a high 800degreeF environment - where is that hammer to head icon?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by VTteg »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Get some of those nuts with the teflon lock washer built in to them.</TD></TR></TABLE>
You ******** gotta stop posting crap just cause your post counts need improvement. If you don't know or not sure - don't post!
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 1Quikgsr »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">use some red locktite at your auto store. </TD></TR></TABLE>
http://tds.loctite.com/tds5/docs/272-EN.pdf
<U>nylon</U> in a high 800degreeF environment - where is that hammer to head icon?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by VTteg »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Get some of those nuts with the teflon lock washer built in to them.</TD></TR></TABLE>
You ******** gotta stop posting crap just cause your post counts need improvement. If you don't know or not sure - don't post!
#11
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btw the stuff you posted....good for rattling bolts in the block and what not....ut i cook that off my wg & mani all day long....and whats left is usually a nice red jammy sort of substance....the rtv tho still remains sticky and holds it all togetha...
all these tips come from running multiple setups...i wish i knew what i know now....then...life would have been so much simpler
all these tips come from running multiple setups...i wish i knew what i know now....then...life would have been so much simpler
#13
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Re: (dannydos)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dannydos »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">use two nuts instead of one....</TD></TR></TABLE>
on the turbo that is....or use safety wire
id like to see you get 2 nuts on my equal length mani....
on the turbo that is....or use safety wire
id like to see you get 2 nuts on my equal length mani....
#15
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Re: (Laserjock)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Laserjock »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">loctite 272 (hi temp/hi strength) is only good for 450degreeF
http://tds.loctite.com/tds5/docs/272-EN.pdf
<U>nylon</U> in a high 800degreeF environment - where is that hammer to head icon?
You ******** gotta stop posting crap just cause your post counts need improvement. If you don't know or not sure - don't post!</TD></TR></TABLE>
it worked for me
http://tds.loctite.com/tds5/docs/272-EN.pdf
<U>nylon</U> in a high 800degreeF environment - where is that hammer to head icon?
You ******** gotta stop posting crap just cause your post counts need improvement. If you don't know or not sure - don't post!</TD></TR></TABLE>
it worked for me
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Re: (1Quikgsr)
loctite works on exhaust bolts, so I don't see why they would'nt work on head/turbo bolts, but use a lock washer for extra reassurance.
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