Ok, I have my new Alarm in.. (yipee)
I am currently in process of wiring it all in, but this one has many more features than my old on. Starter Kill, Remote Start, ect.
I am very unfamiliar with installing these items and want to know if any one else has installed these items, and where did you tap in for the wires?

Ive got a Harness for power, ground, and acc that I created, but where did you tap into the starter wire ect?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Lildrgn &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Ok, I have my new Alarm in.. (yipee)
I am currently in process of wiring it all in, but this one has many more features than my old on. Starter Kill, Remote Start, ect.
I am very unfamiliar with installing these items and want to know if any one else has installed these items, and where did you tap in for the wires?

Ive got a Harness for power, ground, and acc that I created, but where did you tap into the starter wire ect?</TD></TR></TABLE> What kind of alarm/remote start? I would suggest the you get it installed by a pro, there is a lot more to installing a alarm/remote start then just an alarm, also what kind of car? make model year auto/standard. 94

 

probably best not to do it yourself if you dont have a buddy who can walk you though the steps in person... IMO a car alarm isnt something you want play with if your unfamilar with, its a bit more important that hooking a speaker up.

 

Viper 791VX

1996 Prelude Vtec
5 Speed

I have installed alarms before, but never one with remote start. Besides, there are no places that I trust anywhere in Alabama to install my alarm. When I stripped my car, I took my old one out. The wires are all patched together with butt connectors, and the problem with that is, there are 4 or 5 patches per wire. Also, they used the taps everywhere to connect to something. Some of them were loose, some of them were exposed.
Also, the brain was exposed directly under neath the dash, as well as the main fuse, the main harness, and the shock sensor was zip tied to the steering column. The window role down module was just crammed into a space, and they used the wrong size butt connectors to crimp the wires together and the wires were falling out of the connectors.
The big thing was, that they said they hid my valet switch under the dash, but when I took everything out, there was no valet switch. They cut the wire and didnt even install it.

Electronics is not a problem for me. I have done more than my fair share of wiring things much more complex than this.

I just need to know where a goodplace to tap into for the extra wires.

So needless to say, I will never take it to any one unless I can see their work.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Lildrgn &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Viper 791VX

1996 Prelude Vtec
5 Speed

I have installed alarms before, but never one with remote start. Besides, there are no places that I trust anywhere in Alabama to install my alarm. When I stripped my car, I took my old one out. The wires are all patched together with butt connectors, and the problem with that is, there are 4 or 5 patches per wire. Also, they used the taps everywhere to connect to something. Some of them were loose, some of them were exposed.
Also, the brain was exposed directly under neath the dash, as well as the main fuse, the main harness, and the shock sensor was zip tied to the steering column. The window role down module was just crammed into a space, and they used the wrong size butt connectors to crimp the wires together and the wires were falling out of the connectors.
The big thing was, that they said they hid my valet switch under the dash, but when I took everything out, there was no valet switch. They cut the wire and didnt even install it.

Electronics is not a problem for me. I have done more than my fair share of wiring things much more complex than this.

I just need to know where a goodplace to tap into for the extra wires.

So needless to say, I will never take it to any one unless I can see their work.
</TD></TR></TABLE> Jeeeezzzzz all the things you can do wrong in installing an alarm , was your car a demo car for the crappiest alarm install of the year award?

If your up to it ,I'm more then willing to help, I will need the info I asked for to help. 94

got it,

 

Is this unit, [792vx] for a standerd, I can't find it on my DEI dealer site. 94

Off to work now , will check there, 8 am here.

 

I was gonna send you a complete detailed diagram via e-mial, but it you have ur e-mail hidden, so I couldnt.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fcm &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> Jeeeezzzzz all the things you can do wrong in installing an alarm , was your car a demo car for the crappiest alarm install of the year award?

If your up to it ,I'm more then willing to help, I will need the info I asked for to help. 94

got it, </TD></TR></TABLE>

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1996 Honda Prelude Vtec
5 Speed

 

To make it simple, cut your black and white tracer wire at the ignition switch harness. That's you starter solenid wire. Hook up the relay supplied by the alarm set in the proper order. This will inhibit your starter when you arm the alarm. You can connect the starter output (sometimes yellow) from the remote starter to the black and white wire that goes to the starter side (same as relay starter killer output). This will provide the power to start your vehicle when remote start it.

More help later...got to go.

Eric

 

just a heads up, I put the 790 into my brother's car (same thing as the 791) and his car is turboed (I see your sig says 96 turbo project, i figure it's the same car). For some reason when the car is running off the remote start, the door locks operate fine... but when the external turbo timer takes over, the doors won't lock. What he has to do is wait the minute until the turbo timer shuts down to lock the doors, or arm it with the turbo timer running and lock the doors manually. I haven't really had the time to play around with everything and find a work-around with that yet.

As for where to tag the wires, tag them under the steering column. That's the easiest place. Strip a section of the wire, solder, and use some 3M electrical tape. There door lock wires should be in a 2 pin plug over in the driver's kick panel somewhere, typically a little higher and the plug is grey. The rest of your wires should be in the steering column somewhere (except the brake wire of course... that's at the switch above the brake pedal). Don't forget you'll also have to bypass the clutch switch.

The way I did mine was connect pin 30 of a relay to one side of your clutch switch, and connect 87 to the other side. Connect pin 85 to a +12 such as constant or your ignition line (don't use the accessory, because it doesn't show +12 when the car cranks so your car would never start). Connect pin 86 to the BLUE Status Output wire on the 791. This wire only reads ground when the car is about to remote start and while it is remote started. By doing it this way the car won't move if it's in gear, someone hops in and turns the key w/o pushing in the clutch. Otherwise, if the ebrake is off, and it IS in gear, it *WILL* start up and drive. If the ebrake is on it will either lunge or drag your back end lol. But also becareful not to leave your car in gear and then remote start it... BAD THINGS CAN AND DO HAPPEN!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Lildrgn &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

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1996 Honda Prelude Vtec
5 Speed</TD></TR></TABLE> Got it , I got all the info on the alarm and your car printed them and then forgot them at work sorry, on your car almost all the connections you have to make will be made on the drivers side, the alarm connections will be made at oem alarm plug, I am not a fan of cutting wires, or stripping insulation off to make connections, every connection,[ with one exception]
can be made without doing this, every wire you have to "tag" into has a plug someplace and that plug has metal terminals in it , you can depin them out of the plastic plug, solder to that metal term. and then repin it, makes for very clean and camoed install , and if you ever remove it , Honda would have a hard time telling if anything was ever there. O yea the one exception is the starter disable, but that can also be made to look stock 94

 

anyway you can get that info emailed to me? or something?