Ok all i cant get one head bolt off of my head ok i have tried everything except heating it up i know it bad but would it work please help me i dont want to pay outragous amounts of money i need advise i need help it making me go crazy i spent 3 hours on that one bolt i dont wantto round the edges off completely help help help help

 

what all have you tried??? so far

 

breaker bar the bitch...it'll come off, just with the right amount of force...if the breaker bar doesn't work, get a long pipe to stick over the end and pull/push harder...these bolts are damn strong and shouldn't break easily...good luck

 

First off, retighten all head bolts back to torque specs in recommended sequence (sans the one, of course). This will help the tension on the one bolt minimally, but if you have already started rounding the head you need all the relief available. I am not sure I would recommend heating a head bolt, but if you do, go very slow and careful, and leave the others torqued to avoid even the slightest in warpage. Especially on head bolts, never, ever, ever use inadequate tools... Snap On, MAC, or Matco... the cost of that one socket could save your *** later. Try not to use extensions, either, as you lose a percentage of both torque and grip per inch of extension, even with the highest quality of tool to avoid "twisting."

Use a 3/4" ratchet with a 3/4" socket - no adapters, and make sure you have at least a 12 point - if available, use a 3/4" impact set on the lowest setting @ 125, but I would go with the breaker bar everyone else has suggested, instead. Impacts, even quality ones used by professionals, have a tendency to round, and if the pressure is off at all the chance of snapping the head is increased.

If it is still slipping, my advice would be to install all the bolts, and take it to a shop that guarantees their work. That way, if it breaks, your *** is covered as it will be their responsibility to fix it... most shops will do head bolts for under 50 bucks, or right around there. Make sure you use new bolts during reinstallation, torqued to spec twice in sequential order, with a tiny bit of 30-weight on the threads (my Nova was a bitch, and the shop did it in 10 minutes, ruining the bolts, which cost me another 15 to replace, but I went OEM). The effort and time I saved alone was worth the 60 or so bucks.

Either way, will you let me know how it comes out and what worked best, please? I am always looking for a better way!!!!!!!!

 

ok well tomorrow i will prolly try this one more time i have a friend who know a guy or of sorts that has every toll known to man i mean he is putting a corvett fram on a 57 chevy with a 454 in it so he can do anything and he is oging ot look at it for me and i will cost a hell of alot less to give him a few bucks but breaker bars haha tried but i goign to try again since everthing is torqued down to specs again so i let you know on that prolly tomorrow

 

you might want to use some arp head studs instead of head bolts...

 

Have you tried using anything to loosen the bolt like wd40 or any compound like that?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by VRDrvr &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Have you tried using anything to loosen the bolt like wd40 or any compound like that?</TD></TR></TABLE>

engine is soaked in oil everytime it's running...wd40 won't help...lol

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by VRDrvr &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Have you tried using anything to loosen the bolt like wd40 or any compound like that?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Come on that almost the funniest thing Ive ever heard. You gotta be kidding me. ROFL

 

I guess for some reason when I read it I thought he was saying the valve cover bolt which could be labeled head bolt

Either way

:tip toes out of thread:

 

its ok but you gotta admit that was kinda funny.