All I can say is WOW this suspension ROX!!!

I'm running the new Koni GC sleeves, which don't require any adapters or anything. The ID of the sleeve is exactly the same as the OD of the Koni shocks, and they have a machined lip that sits on the snap ring. I got 8" front springs, 380 lbs/in and 7" rear springs, 450 lbs/in.

Now my first question is, is there any way I can keep the sleeve from spinning around when I adjust the perch? While the sleeve fits perfectly over the shock and sits directly on the snap ring, there is nothing to keep the sleeve from spinning around. So when I loosen the perch to adjust it, I have to hold the sleeve in place and also hold the spring up off the perch w/ one hand while spinning the perch w/ the other hand. This makes it difficult to keep track of how many times I have turned the perch. Anybody have any ideas?

I set the height to pretty much what it was w/ my H&R Sport springs, which is about like this:



I like how it sits there, but it's a real pain to get a floor jack or lift arms under the car, so I'm thinking I might adjust it up just enough so that my jack will fit under it, and see how I like it. If not I'll bring it back down.

After I find some dust covers that will fit inside the springs, I'll be taking the suspension off again to install them, and will take pics and do a write-up if anyone wants it.

I'll probably also crank them all the way down once just to take a pic.

*Note* all of this is happening before I get an alignment. After I get an alignment, the height will stay, I won't be adjusting it.

 

theres no room to fit one of the rubber o-rings in-between the sleeve and the strut is there? cause that usually helps hold. my sleeves spin too, its just something you have to deal with. i usually count from bottom up how many threads i moved instead of counting rotations. it usually never turns out perfect though, so i measure from bottom of fender to either ground or wheel on both sides and level it out like that.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 3.504 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">theres no room to fit one of the rubber o-rings in-between the sleeve and the strut is there? cause that usually helps hold. my sleeves spin too, its just something you have to deal with. i usually count from bottom up how many threads i moved instead of counting rotations. it usually never turns out perfect though, so i measure from bottom of fender to either ground or wheel on both sides and level it out like that.</TD></TR></TABLE>

No room in there, believe me when I say the sleeve ID and the Koni OD match EXACTLY. It's not tight enough to keep it from spinning, as it's easy to slip the sleeve on or off of the shock, but it doesn't move around at all, hence there are no extraneous clangs or clunks as you drive.

 

wrap the shock body with electrical tape to get it a bit bigger.

 

duct tape is your friend

 

j/w, how does it ride on the street with those kind of spring rates?

 

I agree either wrap it in electrical tape or the ol' trusty duct tape

 

good kill on the koni's. I run the exact same set-up, but will be increasing the spring rate in september when I get my shocks revalved at Nationals

 

Do you have pics of the GC sleeves and what made you choose those spring rates? Just curious

 

I know it's off topic, but how does the koni and gc coilover handles? Bouncy ride?

 

It's pretty rough on bad roads, but the car doesn't pitch up and down over dips and stuff like it used to. There is almost zero squat upon acceleration. I haven't really pushed it hard yet around some twisty roads. I'm still in the process of finding the right height.

 

sounds reallly nice, wat do you mean by zero squat acceleration? Custom spring rates or standard gc?

 

do you have any pics of the shock/spring combo before they were installed?

 

wow....i use to have the same exact set up on ur old H&R sports...man..i agree they were a little too soft and bad handlin...but what do you expect from springs...they are suppose to gib you a better daily driver ride then a more stiff sportier ride that coil-over gib you...dont get me wrong on H&R sports...their great drop and springs fo daily driver....but fo auto x...they will not perform....well..i'm sittin tein now...so it's a whole differant story fo my handlin experience....it was a nite to day change....lovin the teins right now...i also have it sittin at the same height that my H&R sport gab me

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by aznstyler119 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">wow....i use to have the same exact set up on ur old H&R sports...man..i agree they were a little too soft and bad handlin...but what do you expect from springs...they are suppose to gib you a better daily driver ride then a more stiff sportier ride that coil-over gib you...dont get me wrong on H&R sports...their great drop and springs fo daily driver....but fo auto x...they will not perform....well..i'm sittin tein now...so it's a whole differant story fo my handlin experience....it was a nite to day change....lovin the teins right now...i also have it sittin at the same height that my H&R sport gab me</TD></TR></TABLE>

No, I did not expect my H&R Sports to drop my car freaking 3". The spring rates were much too soft for it to be dropped that low.

Spring rates are in the first post.

When I take off from a stop, the rear barely squats down at all, which should make for batter traction off the line when I go to the drag strip for one last time here soon.

These are the only pics I have right now:

 

Its about time! I will be waiting for that write up

 

That's sick dude.

I was planning on just getting GC's with custom rates for my Yellow, but do you think I should go with the Koni specific sleeve as well?

What are the precise advantages to running the Koni specific sleeve?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 94civicEX &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">That's sick dude.

I was planning on just getting GC's with custom rates for my Yellow, but do you think I should go with the Koni specific sleeve as well?

What are the precise advantages to running the Koni specific sleeve?</TD></TR></TABLE>

No adapters needed, no o-rings or any of that crap in between the sleeve and shock body, so no chance of any clunks or clangs from the sleeve moving around or anything.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PatrickGSR94 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

No adapters needed, no o-rings or any of that crap in between the sleeve and shock body, so no chance of any clunks or clangs from the sleeve moving around or anything.</TD></TR></TABLE>

But you reccomend getting a boot to cover the shock underneath the spring?

Where did you get yours from? Also, I never heard of them actually giving an inch measurement for the length of the spring, why did you go with what you went with and what are the other options?

Sorry, I'm just concerned .

 

Yeah I'm going to find some dustboots for off-road shocks to use on mine, because I don't like driving w/ nothing covering the shock piston.

All the ERS springs have part numbers that denote the free length of the spring, the diameter, and the spring rate. GC usually recommends an 8" spring in front and a 7" spring in back. Some people like to use the same length all around so that the springs can be swapped front to back to change handling characteristics, but if you have 4 8" springs, the back won't be able to be lowered as much, and if you use 7" springs all around the front will be pretty low even on the highest setting. So I just went with the standard 8" front/7" rear.