hey guys, i blead my brakes and the pedal is still feeling soft while i drive the car.

when i finished bleeding them the pedal felt rock solid, then i started up and drove it and it felt soft again, any possible expalnations. my ebrake was engaged when i did the bleeding, could that be the problem?

could it be a bad master cylinder? is there a way to diagnose it? thanks

 

bleed them again. You propably unpurposely let air in the system.

It happened to me, and i thought as well that there was something wrong, but bleeding them again properly solved the problem.

good luck

 

I always make sure the e-brake is down when I do my flushes... I dunno if it matters.


drive it and make sure you get the ABS to work a few times before you re-bleed the system, also I use the wood and hammer trick on the calipers to make sure there no bubbles sticking.

 

make sure you bleed with the engine running, this way the ABS is being actauted. have bled many times (50+) after races and found out a long time ago, engine off=spongy pedal

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SlapSmak &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">make sure you bleed with the engine running, this way the ABS is being actauted. have bled many times (50+) after races and found out a long time ago, engine off=spongy pedal </TD></TR></TABLE>

thanks for all the suggestions.
i think the vacuum in the booster from the intake manifold has something to do with it, bleed the brakes with the motor off then the brakes are not boosted, then whent the car is running and vacuum is boosting the brakes it makes them spongier b/c less efoort is required to use them.

hopefully thats it, i am 98% sure i did them correctly and did not intoduce air inadvertantly.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by euclid &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">hey guys, i blead my brakes and the pedal is still feeling soft while i drive the car.

when i finished bleeding them the pedal felt rock solid, then i started up and drove it and it felt soft again, any possible expalnations. my ebrake was engaged when i did the bleeding, could that be the problem?

could it be a bad master cylinder? is there a way to diagnose it? thanks</TD></TR></TABLE>
did you just change your pads? if so, the pads probably arent bedded.

 

axxis ultimates with about 5k on them, fully bedded compliments of turn 1 at limerock.

the brakes are working really well, there is just more pedal movement than i would like. the first inch or so feels like slop... like with a clutch pedal that has not been adjusted.

 

My brakes are like that, and I'm sure my MC is going out. It has a 139k miles on it. It works, but I hit it hard when going into turns.

 

I have never heard of bleeding the brakes while the motor is running. I don't, and it works fine. Like somebody said, try tapping on the caliper with a rubber mallet or something while bleeding to get the stubborn bubbles out if there are any.

Also, I have found that driving around for a few days usually helps what was originally a 'soft-ish' pedal.

 

You bleed the brakes when the engine is off. If your master cylinder is bad, the best way to check out, is to look at it mounted to the booster in the engine bay. If you see any signs of leakage around the master cylinder and the booster, your MC is going bad.

 

I typically bleed with the ignition energized (motor off). My VW required it and some of the F-bodies do as well to get a good bleed. I've done every bleed in the ITR now too (4) and I've still got a rock hard pedal &lt;knocking on wood&gt;

 

a good sign that mc is going bad is if you bare down on the brakes and they slowly but surely give way til the pedal is on the floor.

 

cant you turn the car off, pump the brake a few times and see if it gets harder and harder to push? is that to test the MC or something else?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RTW DC2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">cant you turn the car off, pump the brake a few times and see if it gets harder and harder to push? is that to test the MC or something else?</TD></TR></TABLE>

when the car is off the pedal stays firm

 

Hey Euclid - do you still have the dustshields on your brakes?

Take em off - makes a BIG difference

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SlapSmak &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">make sure you bleed with the engine running, this way the ABS is being actauted. have bled many times (50+) after races and found out a long time ago, engine off=spongy pedal </TD></TR></TABLE>

OK, this is a new one on me. Are you sure about this? You're not joking?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Big Phat R &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Hey Euclid - do you still have the dustshields on your brakes?

Take em off - makes a BIG difference</TD></TR></TABLE>

i dont want my balljoint boots to melt, can i shield them?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by euclid &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
i dont want my balljoint boots to melt, can i shield them?</TD></TR></TABLE>

There's quite a bit of airflow around them - you could always duct more air to the area if needed.

I wouldn't worry about the boots melting per se - but the payoff is more even rotor cooling (esp the inner pad which works the hardest with the single piston R setup) and lower temps of the brake fluid.

Just inspect the boots regularly

 

thanks i will give it a shot, can i remove them without pressing out the hub? it seems like they have to be cut away.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by euclid &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">thanks i will give it a shot, can i remove them without pressing out the hub? it seems like they have to be cut away.</TD></TR></TABLE>

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=458127

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=68225