STROKER OR BORED W/ SLEEVES?
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i'm doing a bottom end build up for my (turbo) 1995 integra B18B. w/ the funds i have, i'm left with a choice, i do an eagle stroker kit, OR, i have it bored out and resleeved. btw, i plan on running 11-12 psi.
*EDIT* Mr. Mod, could you please correct the thread title, i hadn't realized it was all in caps. sorry-in-advance.
*EDIT* Mr. Mod, could you please correct the thread title, i hadn't realized it was all in caps. sorry-in-advance.
same here sleeves.......since stroker kit you basically using the same stock sleeves........and your rod ratio and and crank all are slightly changed to change that extra torque while sacrificing strengthen sleeves.........when u sleeve u maintain the same crank and rod ratio just bigger bore........
The best way to go when you increase stroke is to add a deckplate, but to do that you must resleeve anyway.
What all comes with the 'Eagle stroker kit?' You might be able to stroke it much cheaper with an OEM crank. EG- B20a crank + deckplated b18b + 85mm sleeves/pistons = 2.16 Liter stroker, with better than stock R/S ratio.
Bah, you don't really need to sleeve or stroke for what you're doing.
What all comes with the 'Eagle stroker kit?' You might be able to stroke it much cheaper with an OEM crank. EG- B20a crank + deckplated b18b + 85mm sleeves/pistons = 2.16 Liter stroker, with better than stock R/S ratio.
Bah, you don't really need to sleeve or stroke for what you're doing.
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You'll end up spending the money on the custom length rods and deckplate instead of a fancy crank if you listen to the advice in my post above. Expensive for sure, but I'm not certain how the total cost compares with the 'Eagle $troker kit.' Much better option tho. But you know what, for 12psi the best thing you can probably do is just keep it simple and stick with the stock stroke and stock sleeves.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mos »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The best way to go when you increase stroke is to add a deckplate, but to do that you must resleeve anyway.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
ok, can some one tell me what a deckplate is? why is it needed for more stroke?
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ok, can some one tell me what a deckplate is? why is it needed for more stroke?
It makes your block taller so your rod to stroke ratio doesn't go too low. With a long stroke crank, say 95mm, in a stock deck height b18b you'll end up with short b16 length rods. With the longer stroke, this setup will place high side load on your cylinder sleeves- if you want the engine to rev high, and last long, you kinda do need to raise the deck height. The b18b r/s ratio isn't that great to begin with, a stock block stroker will just be that much worse.
I think deckplates are fairly common now days- so much so that the rules in some import racing series specify a maximum amount you can raise your deck height with a plate. Some plates probably have a design which braces the sleeves like those 'tap in' guards. Haven't really checked them out tho.
The b20a/b21a crank is the same stroke as a lot of the aftermarket kits use. You can probably pick one up from a salvage yard dirt cheap. You can get it to work in a b18b block, don't ask me how, I don't know.
For more deckplate info maybe ask in the drag forum? Turbocharging allows the possibility of making more power than you can put down even with stock stroke, but the N/A drag guys need all the displacement they can get. Those are the guys to ask.
Edited- Just a note. When motorcycle engine builders need to raise the deck height, they can put a machined aluminum plate *under* the cylinders. Those cylinders arent cast into the crankcase like car engines. This allows them to stick with the stock sleeves. Too bad we can't do this
Modified by mos at 9:35 PM 6/1/2004
I think deckplates are fairly common now days- so much so that the rules in some import racing series specify a maximum amount you can raise your deck height with a plate. Some plates probably have a design which braces the sleeves like those 'tap in' guards. Haven't really checked them out tho.
The b20a/b21a crank is the same stroke as a lot of the aftermarket kits use. You can probably pick one up from a salvage yard dirt cheap. You can get it to work in a b18b block, don't ask me how, I don't know.
For more deckplate info maybe ask in the drag forum? Turbocharging allows the possibility of making more power than you can put down even with stock stroke, but the N/A drag guys need all the displacement they can get. Those are the guys to ask.
Edited- Just a note. When motorcycle engine builders need to raise the deck height, they can put a machined aluminum plate *under* the cylinders. Those cylinders arent cast into the crankcase like car engines. This allows them to stick with the stock sleeves. Too bad we can't do this

Modified by mos at 9:35 PM 6/1/2004
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deckplates are worthless for the most part. the whole r/s ratio thing is blown WAY out of proportion.
more ppl should be aware of the shortened life of an engine due to forged pistons rather than worrying about r/s.
but a good boosted street setup would be 89X84.5mm in a GSR or ITR block, and keeping the oil squirters
more ppl should be aware of the shortened life of an engine due to forged pistons rather than worrying about r/s.
but a good boosted street setup would be 89X84.5mm in a GSR or ITR block, and keeping the oil squirters
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by GSRswapandslow. »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">deckplates are worthless for the most part.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Stroking an FI honda is worthless for the most part.
Stroking an FI honda is worthless for the most part.
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mos »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">It makes your block taller so your rod to stroke ratio doesn't go too low. With a long stroke crank, say 95mm, in a stock deck height b18b you'll end up with short b16 length rods. With the longer stroke, this setup will place high side load on your cylinder sleeves- if you want the engine to rev high, and last long, you kinda do need to raise the deck height. The b18b r/s ratio isn't that great to begin with, a stock block stroker will just be that much worse.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
how would a short rod put a high load on the sides? if anything, isn't there less room for play because of the shorter distance to the pivot point? TIA!
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how would a short rod put a high load on the sides? if anything, isn't there less room for play because of the shorter distance to the pivot point? TIA!
No.
It has to do with how many degrees from vertical the rods get to as the crank goes roundy round. The shorter the rods are, the farther away from vertical the angle gets. I'd imagine there's archived information on this.
It has to do with how many degrees from vertical the rods get to as the crank goes roundy round. The shorter the rods are, the farther away from vertical the angle gets. I'd imagine there's archived information on this.
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mos »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Stroking an FI honda is worthless for the most part. </TD></TR></TABLE>
that's not true at all. stroking a honda will allow the person to run a slightly bigger turbo and end up with the same spool time as one with a smaller turbo and less stroke. the bigger the turbo you can REALISTICALLY run the better.
that's not true at all. stroking a honda will allow the person to run a slightly bigger turbo and end up with the same spool time as one with a smaller turbo and less stroke. the bigger the turbo you can REALISTICALLY run the better.
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