I just chiped my ecu an am starting to tinker with uberdata a little bit and i was trying to get an opinion on what i have done so far or see what other people have done that has worked for them , i have a 95 gsr with just the normal ad ons header, cat , and intake and i was just wondering what is the opitmal tuning that can be done without detonation or knocking, or anything like that. So far , with the advice of my roomate we took 2% fuel out across the board and advanced the timing 4% across the board, we also opend vtec at 3600 and the second iab's at 4000 and im liking the results , im going to the track sunday i wanted to try out some diffrent combinations , any thoughts? thanks

 

ttt, track is on sunday

 

VTEC at 3600??? Dude, your friend is not giving you good advice. Leave it stock unless you have a wideband O2 sensor and don't play around with the ignition until you get a better opinion/read up on some facts. You might end up breaking something.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by alfaaay &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">VTEC at 3600??? Dude, your friend is not giving you good advice. Leave it stock unless you have a wideband O2 sensor and don't play around with the ignition until you get a better opinion/read up on some facts. You might end up breaking something.</TD></TR></TABLE>

-VTEC is actually set at 4000(i took it down 400 from stock, just a guess), but 3600 wouldn't be the end of the world. (VTEC disengage is at 3600).

-Hondas usually run rich stock (12:1) so whats wrong with taking a little fuel out and not hooking it up to a wideband?

-A 2% increase in ignition timing across the board is very safe, considering its about a maximum of 1.5 degree retard.

Any suggestions to what the ignition/fuel values you think he should use?

 

if you have a gsr then vtec is at 4400 and secondaries are 5950ish. You should have vtec engaging around 4800, not 3600. Yes it might run rich stock, but your motor is no longer stock now is it. Maybe you should read up on some tuning before you do anymore of your own. BTW, shouldnt u be doing datalogging and check your A/F with your stock O2 sensor? If you cant even do that then you definently dont need to be playing with your ignition or your A/F ratio.

 

If there were such major AFR changes from stock to a few boltons, don't you think we'd be hearing more about it? I mean, with ~10HP gains from boltons, how can hondata and others get almost another 10HP from tuning, surley not by richening it up and not touching or retarding the timing. right? I have a wideband that I can hook up after I get some time, its permantely installed on my car right now, and now isn't a good time especially durring finals week (i have to wake up for one in 4 hours to take one). I know pleanty about tuning, but I haven't had time to build my DIY knock sensor for the above reasons.

Alaaay, after some reading, I'll raise the VTEC back up to at least stock. I apologize, I dont know much about either VTEC or IABs since I drive an non-vtec LS. At worst case, mine was as close to correct as 5700rpm like on your own setup https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=822024

I think IntegraGSR311 was looking for a little more advice on what ignition values (or distributor timing) people have used sucessfully without knock problems, as well as what fuel values people like to use on almost stock cars. I know people advance their dizzy more than 1.5 degrees... There are pleanty of people out there that want horsepower gains from almost stock cars, without paying $55+ for wideband pass, so I think this is a reasonable project.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Cyphear &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Alaaay, after some reading, I'll raise the VTEC back up to at least stock. I apologize, I dont know much about either VTEC or IABs since I drive an non-vtec LS. At worst case, mine was as close to correct as 5700rpm like on your own setup https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=822024
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It's all good. As you can see I didn't get any responses from that post I made either... haters . Anyway, what I did was simply ask a friend to make me a chip that mocked an ITR fuel map since I'm running cams that are slightly more aggressive than ITR's. That post was old, and the ECU that I use now runs slightly richer than a stock ITR map with slightly advanced ignition timing. The friend that made the chip for me has had plenty of experience w/tuning for VTEC motors, and he still left things pretty conservative for my chip since we couldn't record any information, so I'd say to leave it stock until you can hook your wideband up to his car and datalog, etc.

On a side note, I haven't seen many people make significant gains in tuning a stock, or nearly stock car, but good luck either way.

 

Most people on stock compression can change their distributor to 18 degrees BTDC, but as far as what % of the numerical value that is in hondata or uberdata I dont know. I would say advancing the timing would be "ok" and leaving the fuel alone(with just bolt-ons) would be optimal. Again, the bolt-ons should lean out the car just a bit which should set it pretty close since it runs rich from the factory. I would not blindly cut fuel and advance timing because doing both at once could simply be too much and I personally dont want to make that $1200 mistake to shave .1-.2 seconds off my car.

 

I chose to do a % advance mostly on a whim figuring that it might be more benifical, advancing timing more where there is more advanced already, instead of flat across the board.

The main reason he wants this is because he wants to make it in the 14's to make his friend shut up. Here is some good info that i should have read earlier, http://www.hondata.com/dynocivicsi.html
It basically says they made 5 peak whp and 3.5 avg whp off a stock car. They also say that stock maps are almost tuned to full potential though.

It seems like a lot of people have little bumps in their dynos at stock VTEC and stock IABs, so wouldn't it make sense to lower it a little bit? Then again, some stockish dynos are about flat at both locations.

I guess once i build my knock sensor and put the wideband on his car I can tune it more accurately.

Thanks for the input guys.