!ATTENTION ENGINE BUILDERS! Need your opinion
Ok so most of you know I have built an h23 vtec and had no luck so far...but its not the h23/ h22 combos fault
So heres the story
I was burning oil like crazy (1 quart every 300miles) so I did a comp check and got 225 across the board...then a leakdown and got a 2% leakdown across the board. Ok so far so good.
So I pull the head and found that the head I bought had bad valve guides. Ok so now I think I have solved the problem, but my mechanic called me today and suggested taking the motor out and tearing it down.
He seems to think that I have bad ring lands along with the bad vavle guides. He seems to think that the guides alone wouldnt cause that much burning oil. He says he has seen motors especially h series have bad ring lands and still pass those 2 tests.
But I am a little skeptable because the bottom end has iron sleeves and je forged pistons with 12000 miles on it. I cant seam to grasp that the ring lands would go on a forged piston that fast!
Either way I just need other opinions before I yank out the motor and bring it to him. So I just dont know if I should pull the motor and pay the money for an engine to be torn down for nothing.
So heres the storyI was burning oil like crazy (1 quart every 300miles) so I did a comp check and got 225 across the board...then a leakdown and got a 2% leakdown across the board. Ok so far so good.
So I pull the head and found that the head I bought had bad valve guides. Ok so now I think I have solved the problem, but my mechanic called me today and suggested taking the motor out and tearing it down.
He seems to think that I have bad ring lands along with the bad vavle guides. He seems to think that the guides alone wouldnt cause that much burning oil. He says he has seen motors especially h series have bad ring lands and still pass those 2 tests.
But I am a little skeptable because the bottom end has iron sleeves and je forged pistons with 12000 miles on it. I cant seam to grasp that the ring lands would go on a forged piston that fast!
Either way I just need other opinions before I yank out the motor and bring it to him. So I just dont know if I should pull the motor and pay the money for an engine to be torn down for nothing.
Be caureful with mechanics, this dude at work brought his car in the shop and found out he had a bad lifter. Then that lifter turned to, "Oh you also need this, and oh this is gonna go soon" now his bill is $2600. So be careful, some mechanics will take advantage to take yo money.
I personally dont see how you could get 225psi on all 4 cylinders with "bad ringlands", there should of been some inconsistency.
I personally dont see how you could get 225psi on all 4 cylinders with "bad ringlands", there should of been some inconsistency.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Revi-Ra »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">.
I personally dont see how you could get 225psi on all 4 cylinders with "bad ringlands", there should of been some inconsistency.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
I agree, it seems to me like it could be the valve stem seals,
or have you replaced those already?
I personally dont see how you could get 225psi on all 4 cylinders with "bad ringlands", there should of been some inconsistency.
</TD></TR></TABLE>I agree, it seems to me like it could be the valve stem seals,
or have you replaced those already?
The motor is still apart. The head is being fixed right now and he is suggesting this before I put it together.
I just dont know if its feesable or not for me to do this. Thats why I am asking you guys!
I just dont know if its feesable or not for me to do this. Thats why I am asking you guys!
I know it seems kinda stuipid, but just get the head done right now. If it still burns oil, then you might want to think about taking the block to him. The only thing you'd loose this way is some time and a few gaskets/ seals if the valve guides still don't fix it. Just a couple cents from me. John
BTW: Who's doing the work for you?
BTW: Who's doing the work for you?
1qt every 300mi seems a little bit excessive for just worn valve guides, but I'd agree with bigchevy66. If valve guides were the only problem, you saved yourself some money. And if there ids a problem in the bottom end the onlything extra you need to worry about is tearing the engine down a 2nd time.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 95 lude »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The motor is still apart. The head is being fixed right now and he is suggesting this before I put it together.
I just dont know if its feesable or not for me to do this. Thats why I am asking you guys!
</TD></TR></TABLE>
when you say being fixed, are you referring to just the valve guides?
i would get the valve stem seals replaced as well
if it was me, i wouldn't mess with the block right now.
with those numbers your block seems to be pretty healthy
I just dont know if its feesable or not for me to do this. Thats why I am asking you guys!
</TD></TR></TABLE>when you say being fixed, are you referring to just the valve guides?
i would get the valve stem seals replaced as well
if it was me, i wouldn't mess with the block right now.
with those numbers your block seems to be pretty healthy
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Yeah the valve guides arebeing replaced and I have a set of seals laying around. He is also making sure the valves are good and that some of them werenot over looked like theguides were.
My buddy who gives me an extra set of hands from time to time said the same thing you guys are saying. The only thing that I would miss out of putting it back together is a headgasket and about 5 or 6 hours ofwork on it.
So anyone else think I should say F@#$ it and just put it on and see whats up?
My buddy who gives me an extra set of hands from time to time said the same thing you guys are saying. The only thing that I would miss out of putting it back together is a headgasket and about 5 or 6 hours ofwork on it.
So anyone else think I should say F@#$ it and just put it on and see whats up?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 95 lude »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Yeah the valve guides arebeing replaced and I have a set of seals laying around. He is also making sure the valves are good and that some of them werenot over looked like theguides were.
My buddy who gives me an extra set of hands from time to time said the same thing you guys are saying. The only thing that I would miss out of putting it back together is a headgasket and about 5 or 6 hours ofwork on it.
So anyone else think I should say F@#$ it and just put it on and see whats up?</TD></TR></TABLE>
that what i would do...espically if the block is still in the car
My buddy who gives me an extra set of hands from time to time said the same thing you guys are saying. The only thing that I would miss out of putting it back together is a headgasket and about 5 or 6 hours ofwork on it.
So anyone else think I should say F@#$ it and just put it on and see whats up?</TD></TR></TABLE>
that what i would do...espically if the block is still in the car
damn strait, like i said im PM there is no way that with the compression test numbers that you were giving us and the 2 to 3% leak down that you have bad rings/ring landings.
throw it back together and i swear myself that if your rings/landings are bad i will drive out there to help you fix it .. (tom-crosses fingers hoping all goes well)
but no seriously think about the leak down numbers you have. and yes bad valave guides can leak a **** load of oil seeing as how their is presurized oil lubricating the valves.
throw it back together and i swear myself that if your rings/landings are bad i will drive out there to help you fix it .. (tom-crosses fingers hoping all goes well)
but no seriously think about the leak down numbers you have. and yes bad valave guides can leak a **** load of oil seeing as how their is presurized oil lubricating the valves.
Thats what I was thinking too. But he swears up and down that he has een it before and especially on the h series motors.
I just dont see it happening on a n/a motor withonly 12,000 miles on it. But thats why I came here because I am almost out of money and WAAAAYYYYYY over my project budget for this motor.
But hey if it doesnt work and it still burns oil then I guess I will just drive it for a while and save some more money
I just dont see it happening on a n/a motor withonly 12,000 miles on it. But thats why I came here because I am almost out of money and WAAAAYYYYYY over my project budget for this motor.
But hey if it doesnt work and it still burns oil then I guess I will just drive it for a while and save some more money
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thehondaguru
Honda Prelude
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May 8, 2004 09:31 AM



