hello everybody
just got back with the turbo its an IHI rbh5 looks good no shaft play.

its gonna be on a EURO ESI 94 hatchback. d16

what do y'all say about an 10 psi boost on stock engine.

already have

-the turbo
-hf manifold
-10.5''/8.5''/2.5'' intercooler (came off a muso)
-downpipe
-440cc injectors (need opinion) is it too big for a 10 psi boost ??
-vortec fmu 1:12 (opinion too)
-oil press / boost gauge.

things i need:
a cheap and reliable blow off valve / missing link / fuel press reg/oil lines/ecu/boost controoler

what else... am i missing somthing??? plesae let me know.

the charge pipes are no biggie i just need to know what size to use 2.25'' or 2.50''.

please need your help with this project.


Modified by RACEPAK at 2:01 AM 5/15/2004

 

ttt

 

you need to choose either the larger injectors or the FMU.

you only need one or the other, you cant run them together.

i have a bosch BOV off a saab if you want it, it is cheap an reliable. $30 shipped

 

Racepak: Your parts seem fine, but you'd likely get better direction if you had a HP goal, vs a boost goal.

The Vortech unit and injectors will be overkill. If you need engine management, go for Uberdata (same as Hondata). From there, it won't really make a big difference how much boost you run, just as long as your internals can take it. If you can post a hp goal, I'm sure we could guide you a little more accurately though. Good luck.

 

i agree, either run the larger injectors with Uberdata or for a more $$ friendly alternative use the FMU with stock injectors which will be more than sufficient for you to start your journey into boost.

 

the thing is thet i live in israel

i guess my HP goal is 160hp. (stock internals)

dose Uberdata or Hondata makes a ecu specifically for my engine or thay sell these
plug & play.???

is there an option not to change ecu when the car goes turbo.??

and what do you say about the msd ignition control do i need it??

please help i'm getting dizzy

 

ttt

help

 

Racepak, for a 160hp goal, honestly, you don't even need the turbo. An LSVtec could easily make 160, so doing it with boost should be a walk in the park.

For your injectors and a Hondata/Uberdata (I phrase them like this because they are so similar, not because they are the same product) you'll have enough fuel for 10psi and/or 160hp. I'd try to sell the Vortech FMU because you won't need it with the standalone.

your final run of parts should look something like the following. The items with an asterik are parts that you don't yet have (to my knowledge):

*Uberdata - phenominal EMS thats 100% free.
440cc injectors: ~$100
Your current manifold
Your current turbo
Your current intercooler - which measures the exact specs of a Mitsubishi Starion intercooler
*Internal Wastegate will do fine: ~$80 new
*Any of the stock issued Bosch BOV's will work great. The VW and Subie ones wil make some sound efffects though, if that's what you desire. DSM BOV's typically don't: ~$30-$60
*Any compatible oil line to the turbo, and you may need a matching coolant line if the turbo came from another vehicle: ~$10
*Any MBC (Manual Boost Controller) that won't leak will get the job done. You can even make one.: ~$5-$25

You won't need any 'missing link' or check valves etc. with Uberdata (which is remarkably like Hondata) so you can save yourself the headache, and you won't need an aftermarket FPR either. Good luck, and I hope this helps clarify a little. BTW, with about 10psi on that turbo, you'll make around 190hp.

 

thank you for the info

in my country the police making problems with swaps.

- i am from israel and the thing is that i dont know if the Uberdata / Hondata sell plug & play or custom one's for my specific car.
(to burn a chip in israel costs about $600.)

-the IHI has an internal wastegate.(i dont know how much the spring is calibrated)

-soon i'll get an apexi twin chamber (opinion)

-i guess its a water/oil cooled ( can i cool just with oil and close the water inlet and outet?)

-how do i seal the tubing thread (regular plumbers Teflon or what?)

-this is a very noob question. the uberdata dont need the FPR because it dose the job it self right??

i'm gonna run the car with stock internals (130.000km).


again thank you all for the guidance.

best regards from MG




Modified by RACEPAK at 12:41 AM 5/16/2004

 

Go with 2.5'' for the charge pipe good luck with the install.

 

thank you for the info

Dont mention it

in my country the police making problems with swaps.

- i am from israel and the thing is that i dont know if the Uberdata / Hondata sell plug & play or custom one's for my specific car.
(to burn a chip in israel costs about $600.)

Hondata does. Uberdata, since it's freeware, dosen't sell any products for it to work with your car. You can purchase everything you need to burn your own chips and tune your car for all under $250 - and that's some pretty highline stuff, most of which is in the Wide Band O2 sensor. You'll be able to burn chips (for your car or a friend's/future customer's) hundreds of times till you burn the chip completely out for no additional cost. You'll have to socket your ECU and jumper a few circuts. The entire process is catalogued on quite a few sites. You may even be able to search for it here and find some promising results. <--I did a search and found that this is the most relevant result: https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=725432

-the IHI has an internal wastegate.(i dont know how much the spring is calibrated)

That makes 2 of us.

-soon i'll get an apexi twin chamber (opinion)

It'll definitely get the job done.

-i guess its a water/oil cooled ( can i cool just with oil and close the water inlet and outet?)

Yup. You'd have to make some sort of plug or blockoff plate, but the turbo won't be harmed by using such a method. If you decide to persue this though, just understand that you'll have to be more precautious with cooling the car (and specifically the turbo) down. You'll have to let it sit and idle so the oil dosen't burn within the passages and crystalize to a white powder (called "coking").

-how do i seal the tubing thread (regular plumbers Teflon or what?)

Yup. Regular teflon works great. By the time the threads heat up to eat away at the Teflon, it would have heated and expanded to an imovable seal anyway. Over-the-counter teflon will be great for this.

-this is a very noob question. the uberdata dont need the FPR because it dose the job it self right??

Well..in a way yes. It dosen't change the fuel pressure, but it alters the duty cycle of the injector to compensate for the inreased boost which is the same way any other high-dollar engine management does it. You (literally) type in the size of injectors you have and the fuel pressure you have at the line and it will set-up the fuel paramaters and timing paramaters to suit. From there you simply fine tune it to suit your desired AFR (which you'll read on the WBO2). I'm oversimplifying it a bit, but it really is quite simple. You can download it for free and play around with it to see for your self. Heres the home site: http://www.ecimulti.org/uberdata/ Check the boards, read the articles etc. Fun times.

i'm gonna run the car with stock internals (130.000km).

Wow. I'd do a compression check first and foremost. If you read anything less than 118psi, I'd definitely hold off, because your fun would be short lived. Good luck and keep us posted.

again thank you all for the guidance.

best regards from MG

 

Hello again.

wow i didnt know that you guys burn your own ecu's.

one thing is that i dont have a laptop and the other is that i not so confident in my self to play with my car ecu.

can i mess up somthing?? like destroying the ecu.
can i copy the stock rom before i start the process ??
do you know pepole that faild and need to buy new ecu??


i`m a good solder ...


f**k i just saw that the manifold cracked again at the place i welded.
i'm bou't to cry. (looking for another one)...




keep up the good work

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RACEPAK &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Hello again.

wow i didnt know that you guys burn your own ecu's.

Well, technically not ECU's. Just the chips, but a few of us do it our selves.

one thing is that i dont have a laptop and the other is that i not so confident in my self to play with my car ecu.

try the software if even on your desktop. You'll see how straightfoward it is. About the lack of a laptop, I can't make any suggestions with that, but you can get the job done without it. Just take way more time (drive --&gt;come back home --&gt; change --&gt;drive).

can i mess up somthing?? like destroying the ecu.

Mess something up yeah. You could not do a good solder job. As far as destroying the ECU, you'd have to be trying intentionally, because what you're modifying is external (the chip)

can i copy the stock rom before i start the process ??

It's already copied for you, but you can save millions of copies of thousands of tunes.

do you know pepole that faild and need to buy new ecu??

no, but I'm sure it happens. Even if you thoroughly screw something up, simply cut the jumper on J1 and your ECU returns to 100% stock again.

i`m a good solder ...


f**k i just saw that the manifold cracked again at the place i welded.
i'm bou't to cry. (looking for another one)...

lol. may wanna get that straightened out first


keep up the good work</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

So what rom burner should i get ?(cheapest that will do the job)?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RACEPAK &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">So what rom burner should i get ?(cheapest that will do the job)?

</TD></TR></TABLE>

I don't really keep up on the ROM burner field, so I couldn't give you a name on the lowest price that wouldn't be more than an educated guess. I'm sure if you post your question in the Uberdata forum you'd get some good pointers though. Good luck.

 

are these injectors good for the project??
:::;-)
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors...46098

thenx

 

They most certainly are.