Not mine...dont worry *knock on wood*
But this is a prime example why stock LS/CRV rods should not be used in high revving applications.

This guy I know had a B20VTEC revving to something like 8500 RPMs.
Well...just the other day...BAM...broke a rod in two and came out through the block! Now his B20 is junk.
The "funny" thing is that the motor was "built" up in the begining...or more rebuilt actually. It had new rings and stuff put in...so he had a chance to throw some Eagle rods in..but didnt. Now he paid the price.

Careful with your setups guys...
Im kinda "nervous" about mine although the most I ever rev to is 7700 and only until 3rd gear...Ill never take 4th and 5th that high....way too much load.

 

Be warned. HX guy, I'd even be careful taking it 7700 , those motors arent' built to go that high.

 

I know *gulp*

I will do a rebuild...just hope it wont be too late.

 

Wow! I know a guy who takes a b20vtec up to 9000. Went to a 2 day race event and everything is still good. I forget what components he's using for the hybrid, but I sincerely hope the same thing doesn't happen to him. :cross fingers:

 

can u break down what u need for a highly reliable B20 vtec??
what cams, pistons, rods, and everything for a beast of an engine??
thanks

i asked u earlier but never got a reply so ill ask again

 

Well everyone might have a different opinion..but here is what I think you need.

Aftermarket rods (Eagle, Crower, etc) - Much stronger then stock so tehy can take the stress of high revving.

Crank girdle - I consider this a must while other people do not. Liek Ive said, Honda uses a crank girdle on the B18C1 and B18C5 from the factory..I dont think they would spend the extra money if it wasnt 100% needed...and the B18C engines have a better R/S ratio too! (The B16A doesnt use a girdle..but has a much much better R/S ratio)

Aftermarket pistons(Endyn, JE) - These are needed as much as the other parts...but usually are lighter then stock which puts less stress on the rods and the cylinder walls...plus you nca increase compression so you gain some power while being more reliable.

 

I have the whole deal except the crank girdle. I plan to rev to 8k + or - 500rpm and on occasion for show-off purposes 9.5krpm. There isn't really a reason to rev that high though.

-The girdle goes in before it goes on a road course - it isn't hard to do, just drop the header, oil pan and windage tray, remove the main bolts and bolt her back together, observing torque specs of course.


[Modified by stizzit, 9:33 AM 11/2/2001]


[Modified by stizzit, 9:33 AM 11/2/2001]

 

Stizzit: Id get a girdle added to the setup for extra insurane...it would be a shane to lose the motor after all the money and work was put into it.

A GSR/ITR girdle can be modded to fit and will only cost around $150 - $200 to make it work...or you cna get a Z10 girdle but that will cost around $400+ once you have all the parts needed.

EDIT: Nvermind...looks like you already have plans for one


[Modified by HX_Guy, 9:35 AM 11/2/2001]

 

Wow that really sucks. I'd be crying. This being my third engine. But anyhow, I used to take mine to 8200 at least a couple times a week. Maybe I got lucky! Well, I just got the motor built with the right parts so hopefully I will be okay.

 

This guy almost deserved this to happened to him...

I hope I dont offend anyone...but I hate when people have these "hook up" motors and dont know **** about them. They dont deserve to drive them.

This guy paid $5000 to have a B20VTEC installed in his CRX...WTF?!
Stock B20 bottom end wit ha B16A head and ITR cams..wit ha cable tranny! $5000!!! Hellooo....Mcfly...you just got ripped a new one!

Now he went out and paid $600 for a torn apart, rusted B18A block to replace the B20! WTF?! You can buy a WHOLE B18B longblock for like $450!

Liek I said..he doesnt even deserve to be driving there motors.

 

Balance the bottom-end will help as well. Note that ITR's crankshaft have 8 counter-balance and GSR has 6. I don't know if LS does, but even so, it would be less. Balancing everything in the bottom-end will ensure high-revving safety.

 

HX_guy

You should be careful revving your car past the 7500 rpm mark. It will put alot of stress and wear on the main and con bearings. You remembered the pictures I showed you from my car?

 

HX_Guy- Are you gonna build your bottom end next? If so are you just gonna get the girdle and rods or are you gonna get pistons too?

Did you get to dyno your car with the bored TB?

 

Yea thats my next plan...to build the bottom end.

Ill probably get high compression pistons since it will all be apart...I havnt really decided yet. Depends on my financial situation, doing just rods and a girdle would be MUCH cheaper since I wouldnt have to bore the block and crap.

I havnt dyno'd the car with the 64mm TB yet...itll be a while.

 

ROFL.
I bet his Flux Capacitor started knocking at 88 mph

 

Really no point in revving it much past the stock redline because if you look at dyno plots, the engine doesn't make any power past redline unless you upgrade the cams. And if you upgrade the cams, new springs and valves would be good to prevent valve float as well as stand up to the more aggressive cams.

Anybody know about the whole crankshaft thing? I'm curious about it...

 

what girdle to use with B20

 

i have a gs-r fully built and no problems as of yet *knock on wood*
i rev it past 8500 often. when i race its always 9500 redline.
if everything is done right there will be no major problems.
i have had my motor balanced. eagle rods je 12:5:1 pistons
toda b specs, toda valve springs. 270 injectors.
i've had all the bearings replaced too
new gaskets all around
and my oil pressure is at 80psi at wot so my engine is safe for high
reving.i haven't been able to prove the numbers at the track though
i keep on breaking axles and that sucks a lot. i can't even get off the line
without breaking the axle first.
oh yea if your going to use new rings i sugguest aftermarket ones
not oem ones. a lot of ls-vtec's in milwaukee have blown up too because, they weren't built right. just a waste of money and time to do all that stuff and then have it blow up in there face. and they say if waas fully built. i've seen ls-vtecs get weak after not even a year because,of stock rings. aftermarket ones hold better when revving high.

 

My friends b20vtec (stock ITR cams) peaks at a little shy of the 9k mark. So his rev limiter is set at ~9100. He was getting a little uncomfortable with going that high, but the dyno chart shows the horsepower wasn't decreasing, rather staying flat aft of the 9000 rpm range. Weird.

 

Project X: did you get your engine back form the machine shop? how is it?

 

HX,

Did the rod break in half or did he lose a rod bolt, which led to the lower cap breaking? The rods themselves should be good for 8500, but the rod bolts definitely need to be upgraded to ARP's. Polishing the beams, and shot peening the rods will also add to their strength.

One thing I don't think I've ever seen mentioned when people tell about rod breakage is under what conditions the rod broke. Was he revving it or did he just finish making a high rev run. One thing that will lead to rod breakage is if you rev the engine under load and then instead of pushing in the clutch and letting the RPM's drop to idle, you use the engine to slow the car. This will stretch the rod bolts, which will result in their failure pretty quickly....