i have a B16b CTR few bolt ons but reall want more power out of it..i dont see too manyy poeple here with the B16b and there setup, if anyone has info on a great setup i should go with such as cams and such help me out

 

i think you should go with some overbore pistons 82mm or sleeve and get bigger, and some skunk2 s2 cams or something of the sort, and hell why not gut your cat, it will still be a low emission honda. but yeah the over bore pistons and some great cams, you'll definitely love your top end and you'll get good low end cuz of the pistons. this will cost you 1000 - 1500 but you bought a ctr motor so you got the money.


Modified by skologic at 10:04 PM 4/23/2004

 

Get a ITR crank and do an OEM stroker, pick up 15lb/ft-20lb/ft at peak.

 

im sure u dont want to hear this, but get an H22.

 

well this was the real line up for the motor...ITR crank and rods, Toda spec Cs, gears and head work,, that was just gunna be about it till the money for the ITB came along

 

why not the ls crank and rods wouldnt it give a lil more tq, im not to sure though about how it goes with b16b but if itr crank fits i dont see why not the ls one. but then i dont know what the pistons to valve clearance would be if u wanted to run them c's

 

from team-integra.net

people say the spec c's are te best but it all depends on your application. these specs sould help decide on what cam to buy because everything is all fair. also the toda's are not measure at 1mm duration, they say the toda's are 295in 295ex but at a different duration. now the ctr cams are measured at 1mm duration and so when you check out the specs they say in 243 ex 235

now the following, from team integra.net, will be the cam specs for different companies at 1mm duration

STOCK GSR : b17a and b18c1 (Chilled Cast Core)
INTAKE lift - 10.6 mm,duration - 230 @1mm
EXHAUST lift - 9.4mm, duration - 227@1mm

- STOCK 1997-1999 ITR ($500-580/pr, ITR intake cam $250-290)
INTAKE lift - 11.5 mm, duration 240 @1mm
EXHAUST lift - 10.5mm, duration 235 @1mm


- STOCK CTR and 2000-2001 ITR (CTR intake cam $300-350)
INTAKE lift - 11.5 mm, duration 243 @1mm
EXHAUST lift - 10.5mm, duration 235 @1mm


Crane cams
- Stage 1 (part no. 2530010 - $773.33/pr)
INTAKE lift- 11.6 mm, duration 243 @ 1mm
EXHAUST lift - 10.8mm, duration 237 @ 1mm

- Stage 2 (part no. 2530012)
INTAKE lift- 11.99 mm, duration 248 @ 0.05 in.
EXHAUST lift - 11.6 mm, duration 242 @0.05 in.

- Stage 3 (part no. 2530016)
INTAKE lift- 12.39 mm, duration 254 @ 0.05 in.
EXHAUST lift - 11.99 mm, duration 248 @ 0.05 in.


Crower vtec cams
INTAKE lift - 11.83 mm, duration 237 @1mm
EXHAUST lift - 11.81 mm, duration 228 @1mm

- 63403
INTAKE lift - 11.98 mm, duration 246 @1mm
EXHAUST lift - 11.83 mm, duration 238 @1mm

- 63412 N/A Race Core Cams
INTAKE lift - 11.84 mm,duration - (estimated) 260 @1 mm
EXHAUST lift - 11.81 mm, duration - (estimated) 252 @1 mm

- 63413 N/A Race Core Cams
INTAKE lift - 11.99 mm,duration - (estimated) 269 @1 mm
EXHAUST lift - 11.84 mm, duration - (estimated) 258 @1 mm


JUN
- Type 1
INTAKE lift - 10.9 mm, duration 265 @ 1mm
EXHAUST lift - 10.0 mm, duration 268 @ 1mm

- Type 2
INTAKE lift - 12.0 mm, duration 267 @ 1mm
EXHAUST lift - 10.9 mm, duration 265 @ 1mm

- Type 3 ($890/pr)
INTAKE lift - 12.0 mm, duration 265 @ 1mm (Advertised 304)
EXHAUST lift - 11.5 mm, duration 265 @ 1mm (Advertised 304)

- Type 4($??/pr)
INTAKE lift - 12.5 mm, duration 265 @ 1mm (Advertised 304)
EXHAUST lift - 12.5 mm, duration 265 @ 1mm (Advertised 304)


SKUNK2
- Stage I (best price $712.50/pr, retail $797/pr, CARB Exempt pending)
INTAKE lift- 11.58 mm, duration 252 @ 1mm
EXHAUST lift - 10.8 mm, duration 249 @1mm

- Stage II (Not CARB Exempt, $700-725/pr, retail $849/pr)
INTAKE lift- 12.3 mm, duration 266 @ 1mm
EXHAUST lift - 11.8 mm, duration 262 @ 1mm

- Stage III - (race only, $700-725/pr, retail $849/pr)
INTAKE lift- 12.8 mm, duration 270 @ 1mm
EXHAUST lift - 11.8 mm, duration 279 @ 1mm


Toda
- Spec A's ($920/pr)
INTAKE lift - 11.6 mm,duration 250 @1mm
EXHAUST lift - 11.2mm, duration 240 @1mm

- Spec B's ($980/pr)
INTAKE lift - 12 mm, duration 255 @1mm
EXHAUST lift - 12mm, duration 245 @1mm

- Spec C's ($1100/pr)
INTAKE lift - 12.5 mm, duration 255 @1mm
EXHAUST lift - 12.5mm, duration 255 @1mm

- Spec D's ($ Not Available/pr, RACE ONLY )
INTAKE lift - 12.9 mm, duration - estimated 265 @1mm (Advertised 305)
EXHAUST lift - 11.9 mm, duration - estimated 275 @1mm (Advertised 315)

Race-Only "Killer Cams" ($1,800/pr includes solenoid oil line plug
INTAKE lift - 12.0 mm, duration 265 @1mm
EXHAUST lift - 11.5 mm, duration 255 @1mm


now a again this is not my work, this is from michaelDelaney at
team-integra.net all credit goes to him

please go to the link if you want to know more. There are more companies and there specs at the link
http://www.team-integra.net/se...ID=51

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by duckmanEG &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">why not the ls crank and rods wouldnt it give a lil more tq, im not to sure though about how it goes with b16b but if itr crank fits i dont see why not the ls one. but then i dont know what the pistons to valve clearance would be if u wanted to run them c's</TD></TR></TABLE>

If he did this, he would be creating a LS/VTEC , because he would have a VTEC head. But it is a very logical thing to do, and will give you a crap load more power than what you have already. The b16b is just a destorked b18. There is a guy selling the kit to convert 1.6 blocks in to LsVtec motors without having to get a ls block and vtec head, witch is and awsome sleeper motor . Look it up in the classifieds I belive. I would just through a 50 shot on her and call it a day, maybe get some more aggresive cams. But its only 1.6l, so its not like you can get that much more out of it. Besides its already a good strong engine, with the best rod ratio. Why screw it up

 

you have a couple options. You could keep it a 1.6 and because of the r/s ratio the motor is good to like 10,000 rps. I mean even at that speed the pistons arent even moving much. In that case i would build for severe topend. Big cams and maybe a 2 layer gasket for more compression.
Or.

you could just drop in whichever 1.8 liter crank you chose and it will be exactly that. I would put an ls rotating assembly in there and have a ls/vtec with piston squirters. It will have the most torque, and its still good to 9,000 + (i would go with aftermarket rods and pistons if u have it apart. They are stronger and LIGHTER).

Or you could drop in a gsr or b18c5 rotating assembly. Of these two i would just choose the gsr mainly cuz u can prolly find it cheaper. If the price was just as good go with the type-r.

good luck either way.

I myself have went from a 1.6 to a 1.8 and i reccommend that route.

 

get some cams. if you want alot of power out of a honda then you will have to get turbo. get a port & polish done it really helps N/A.

 

i will end up getting thee type R crank just cuz i dont want to take out the pistons...plus would i still need the rods or not?

 

yup, you'll need the rods.

Wow, you're from CT? What part? I go to school in NJ, but I live in CT too..

 

if you change your crank to a type r your compresion ratio will jump from 11:1 to 12.3:1 then if you add a 2 layer head gasket you will about 12.5:1 compresion which is pretty fkn high. at that point you need some really good cams, like skunk2 s2 or higher check above on my previos post, now you wont be able to rev up as high reliably because of the much shorter rod/stroke ratio. please check out the following link in the Enginei section http://www.team-integra.net/se...how=1 this link is very informitive in its compresion ratio to cams comparision and why one does not really work with out the other, and i must say that if you dont read this you are really missing out and failling to really understand motor performance. but the high comp, bigger cams, more displacement, you could also get a bigger bore piston for more tq and a jump across the rpm band. and also all this is nothing with out tunning, with out that you are missing out some big horepower and reliability of the motor, also with the bigger cams and high comp you really need to check for valve clearance especially when you get cam gears.

 

ok guys here we go..i just got a Ls crank and Rods for pretty much for free....so going with that...now i will get new main and rod bearings...what kind of headgasket should i use but then wont have problems with head clearence....one more thing i have the b16b ECU.will have to change the ECU to somehting else or not

 

bump bump

 

morning bump

 

I do not think you should stroke a CTR engine,putting a LS crank and rods basically makes it a LS/vtec engine..if you wanted big displacement you shouldve spent less and got a type r engine or built a ls/vtec.CTR engines are awesome and made for high rev's,If it were me,id keep the CTR block stock,and get another block,LS,and build that.For a headgasket,just go OEM honda,there will not be clearance problems unless you run some race cams with really high lift and very long duration.Im guessing your car is an EK,if so get a obd2-obd1 conversion harness and run a chipped ecu(my opinion)..and if you are going to stroke your CTR,sell me the crank and rods.

 

but wouldnt the Lsvtec out proform the CTR anyday with the right tunning?

 

the reason i really want to do this LScrank is cuz it seems my my Vtec isnt hitten as hard it should maybe its do wite the chek engine light...but we cant figure out why its on...and plus woulding u think i should kill a gsr integra??? we raced took of the line bad but he was coming up on my *** we had to stop cuz it really wasnt the right place to go at it...(gunna get flamed for street racing i know here it comes owell)

 

Maybe you should pull the code from the ECU and find out why it's on. And the Spec C's are some huge cams that your compression couldn't support. They're compression hungry cams.