Oil temp on track day.
I know,I read it all.
I saw a lot of thread,but specific explanation,none!
I'm running an JDM '98 spec-R engine in my Civic.
Two weeks ago,I did a racing course to have my race licence.
The motor runs with 10w40 GTX oil(mineral).
I'm running a full size 'Teg 2 row radiator.
I have a mechanical oil temp bolted ~1 inch from the bottom of the oil pan.
For 20 minutes for hard lapping.I've seen 240-250°F constantly!
This was on a freezing spring seasons.
What about on a humid summer seasons?!?!?!?!
I read for some oil cooler....but I'm not shure.
I already have one(The OEM sandwich one),but think it is more to heat the oil then to really cool it down.
Should I be worried for summer,or that doesn't mean in summer time I'll see higher oil temp?
Should I switch for a Synthetic one?
Is 250°F is way too high?
Should I trust my Bling Auto-meter pro-comp?
Last year,I was lapping with a B16 in a CRX and I didn't have an oil temp. so I didn't bother....but now,it is different and the motor is worth somemore.
So,what are your thought?
I saw a lot of thread,but specific explanation,none!
I'm running an JDM '98 spec-R engine in my Civic.
Two weeks ago,I did a racing course to have my race licence.
The motor runs with 10w40 GTX oil(mineral).
I'm running a full size 'Teg 2 row radiator.
I have a mechanical oil temp bolted ~1 inch from the bottom of the oil pan.
For 20 minutes for hard lapping.I've seen 240-250°F constantly!
This was on a freezing spring seasons.
What about on a humid summer seasons?!?!?!?!
I read for some oil cooler....but I'm not shure.
I already have one(The OEM sandwich one),but think it is more to heat the oil then to really cool it down.
Should I be worried for summer,or that doesn't mean in summer time I'll see higher oil temp?
Should I switch for a Synthetic one?
Is 250°F is way too high?
Should I trust my Bling Auto-meter pro-comp?
Last year,I was lapping with a B16 in a CRX and I didn't have an oil temp. so I didn't bother....but now,it is different and the motor is worth somemore.
So,what are your thought?
wait til you get to a 100+ degree day and do 35 minutes. your gauge will be pegged.
invest in a good oil cooler system; use good quality oil and change it often.
there are a ton of threads here on honda-tech about coolers.
i use a combination Howe racing radiator with an integral oil cooler. its way oversize, but does a great job. it warms the oil when it is cold, and of course cools it when it gets hot.
good luck
todd
invest in a good oil cooler system; use good quality oil and change it often.
there are a ton of threads here on honda-tech about coolers.
i use a combination Howe racing radiator with an integral oil cooler. its way oversize, but does a great job. it warms the oil when it is cold, and of course cools it when it gets hot.
good luck
todd
steve:
Also try running thinner oil, maybe a 5w40 even 0w40; possibly even going down to 30. Thinner oil runs cooler and has less drag/friction on the motor. As long as the oil pressure stays where you need it, go as thin as possible. An oil cooler is also a very good idea. Use quality parts like the Canton billet block off plate and oil filter relocator mount; instead of a cheap cast unit. Ideally you want to keep your water and oil temps as close as possible
Also try running thinner oil, maybe a 5w40 even 0w40; possibly even going down to 30. Thinner oil runs cooler and has less drag/friction on the motor. As long as the oil pressure stays where you need it, go as thin as possible. An oil cooler is also a very good idea. Use quality parts like the Canton billet block off plate and oil filter relocator mount; instead of a cheap cast unit. Ideally you want to keep your water and oil temps as close as possible
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Francois »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I'm running an JDM '98 spec-R engine in my Civic.
Two weeks ago,I did a racing course to have my race licence.
The motor runs with 10w40 GTX oil(mineral).
I'm running a full size 'Teg 2 row radiator.
I have a mechanical oil temp bolted ~1 inch from the bottom of the oil pan.
For 20 minutes for hard lapping.I've seen 240-250°F constantly!
</TD></TR></TABLE>
What chassis of Civic? By those temps, I think you have an install issue with your engine/cooling system. That seems WAY too hot. I would also switch to 5W30 instead of 10W40.
Edit:
I double checked, and those temp actually don't seem to far off. Just make sure you are not going up over 280.
Modified by MightyMouseTech at 4:49 PM 4/23/2004
I'm running an JDM '98 spec-R engine in my Civic.
Two weeks ago,I did a racing course to have my race licence.
The motor runs with 10w40 GTX oil(mineral).
I'm running a full size 'Teg 2 row radiator.
I have a mechanical oil temp bolted ~1 inch from the bottom of the oil pan.
For 20 minutes for hard lapping.I've seen 240-250°F constantly!
</TD></TR></TABLE>
What chassis of Civic? By those temps, I think you have an install issue with your engine/cooling system. That seems WAY too hot. I would also switch to 5W30 instead of 10W40.
Edit:
I double checked, and those temp actually don't seem to far off. Just make sure you are not going up over 280.
Modified by MightyMouseTech at 4:49 PM 4/23/2004
[QUOTE=MightyMouseTech]
I have a mechanical oil temp bolted ~1 inch from the bottom of the oil pan.
[QUOTE]
I'm not sure about this, but is it *possible that the temp pick-up might be affected by the header/exhaust? Just a thought...
I have a mechanical oil temp bolted ~1 inch from the bottom of the oil pan.
[QUOTE]
I'm not sure about this, but is it *possible that the temp pick-up might be affected by the header/exhaust? Just a thought...
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Francois »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I already have one(The OEM sandwich one),but think it is more to heat the oil then to really cool it down.
Should I switch for a Synthetic one?
Is 250°F is way too high?</TD></TR></TABLE>
The OE oil heat exchanger is a pretty nice piece of work. Better quality by far than a good number of aftermarket air to oil coolers out there. You can bet that if Honda went to the trouble of putting them on, they've done their homework to be sure it's needed and that it works.
250° sounds about right, to me. Coolant temps on race engines are typically just below boiling water or slightly higher. The oil takes a lot more heat by washing straight over the oil rings, cylinder walls and bearing surfaces. 260-280° is not unheard of on race motors running synthetics.
You will raise the upper limit of safety with synthetic oil, and in many cases a good synthetic will lower the oil temp by a moderately amount.
For my money, a better radiator along with the Type-R or B16 oil heat exchanger seems like a better investment without added complexity or the oil pressure drop caused by all that extra hose and fittings.
Reasonable minds may differ.
Thawley
Should I switch for a Synthetic one?
Is 250°F is way too high?</TD></TR></TABLE>
The OE oil heat exchanger is a pretty nice piece of work. Better quality by far than a good number of aftermarket air to oil coolers out there. You can bet that if Honda went to the trouble of putting them on, they've done their homework to be sure it's needed and that it works.
250° sounds about right, to me. Coolant temps on race engines are typically just below boiling water or slightly higher. The oil takes a lot more heat by washing straight over the oil rings, cylinder walls and bearing surfaces. 260-280° is not unheard of on race motors running synthetics.
You will raise the upper limit of safety with synthetic oil, and in many cases a good synthetic will lower the oil temp by a moderately amount.
For my money, a better radiator along with the Type-R or B16 oil heat exchanger seems like a better investment without added complexity or the oil pressure drop caused by all that extra hose and fittings.
Reasonable minds may differ.
Thawley
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If 280 is more of a concerned,well,that's fine with me.
I'll wait till summer to see what the gauge say's.
The reason why the probe was installed (at least) 1" from the bottom of the pan,was to make shure the reading is good even at full throttle and less oil then say,on idle in the driveaway.
I don't think I should upgrade more of my radiator.It is a 2 row full lenght.It is already more thick then a OEM Type-R....
As for the oil,I thought the 40 grade was better for my motor since this car belong more on the track then on the street and thought that grade would still be effective at high temp.
Maybe,I should change for a synthetic one only,because it should take more heat and abuse 'cause I change my oil very(very) often.
I did read in the past even not that far,some topic for the oil cooler.
I may not speak much,but I do read a lot.
But not taking everything for cash!
I'll wait till summer to see what the gauge say's.
The reason why the probe was installed (at least) 1" from the bottom of the pan,was to make shure the reading is good even at full throttle and less oil then say,on idle in the driveaway.
I don't think I should upgrade more of my radiator.It is a 2 row full lenght.It is already more thick then a OEM Type-R....
As for the oil,I thought the 40 grade was better for my motor since this car belong more on the track then on the street and thought that grade would still be effective at high temp.
Maybe,I should change for a synthetic one only,because it should take more heat and abuse 'cause I change my oil very(very) often.
I did read in the past even not that far,some topic for the oil cooler.
I may not speak much,but I do read a lot.
But not taking everything for cash!
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