I've been doing some research and havent found a clear cut answer yet.... Ive read that the OEM honda fpr is 1:1, so is it necasary to have an aftermarket fpr if someone is running hondata? I only plan on making around 300whp so the stock fuel system (with exception of the fuel pump) should be sufficient for my needs correct? Can anyone help me out here!! Thanks in advance for anyone who contributes.

 

Thats an aweful avatar I love my Tiens! Bump for an answer

 

Many Hondata users keep a stock FPR, but if you decide to upgrade, you MUST keep a 1:1 regulator. The 10:1 or 12:1 rising rate regulators are bandaid fixes for boost, and since you are using Hondata, you don't need these. I prefer to have an aftermarket adjustable FPR, just because it gives you another degree to tune with. I am currently using the B&M unit, which makes use of the OEM FPR but with a new spring and an adjustable hat.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DaX &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Many Hondata users keep a stock FPR, but if you decide to upgrade, you MUST keep a 1:1 regulator. The 10:1 or 12:1 rising rate regulators are bandaid fixes for boost, and since you are using Hondata, you don't need these. I prefer to have an aftermarket adjustable FPR, just because it gives you another degree to tune with. I am currently using the B&M unit, which makes use of the OEM FPR but with a new spring and an adjustable hat.</TD></TR></TABLE>

what he said... , yes if you run hondata, its not necessary to get one, but if you do, get a 1:1

derek14, check out my sig

 

however if you get the B&M you can only raise the base pressure. so if you get a high flow/pressure pump you may run the risk of screwing your fuel tables with a non linear fuel curve that will be produced by overunning the fpr.

 

I did 344whp on a stock regulator. We actually switched out an AEM for the stock because the diaphram in the AEM broke. This round I have a Aeromotive A1000 fpr. But for the hp levels you want stock should be fine. Larry

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 92GSXBaltimore &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">however if you get the B&M you can only raise the base pressure. so if you get a high flow/pressure pump you may run the risk of screwing your fuel tables with a non linear fuel curve that will be produced by overunning the fpr.</TD></TR></TABLE>

This is true. I noticed after installing my Walbro 255lph HP fuel pump that the lowest I can set my fuel pressure to is around 50 psi. I have not installed my turbo yet, so i think it will be fine, but if you are already tuned and throw one on, please realize you can't turn down the base pressure.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by slowazzhatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">


derek14, check out my sig </TD></TR></TABLE>

LOL, hell yea, im a comic in the making....

 

With injectors in the 440cc range and hondata you can get away with a stock fuel pump but your limits will be arond the 250whp range if you stay with stock fuel pressure. Basically you just need something to regulate your flow, whether it is an EMS or an afc. When running EMS you want a 1:1 ratio on your fpr. If you keep the fuel pressure stock, the stock pump will be good for about 250 whp.

As far as the FPR is concerned, it is fine for boost unless you are running very large injectors. Once boost is hit, your injector pulse width's will change... and a longer pulse width means more fuel. If you want to make tuning easier at idle when running larger injectors (880+), the adj fpr will allow you to increase your fuel pressure at idle to compensate for the slow opening of the larger injectors.