Well, after the dyno meet in Pittsburgh. I have some questions.
Why did all the parts and mods that were put on the car hurt the whp instead of helping it? I know I am still a "newbe" and I have a lot of stuff to learn, but I thought that opening up the intake and exhaust would only help. I would also like to complain to the manufactures for making it seem that if you add a part you will get more horsepower in return. Obviously this is not the case for an ITR.
Hear is what I got.
AEM CAI
Spoon header
Carsound cat
Tanabe racing medalion
Unorthodox crank pulley

So what’s wrong? Is the car running to lean? Do I need a VFC, fuel pump different ECU?
What do I need to do to make power from these bolt-ons?

Also:
Every bolt-on has increased my gas mileage. When we advance the timing we noticed that the whp never changed but moves around on the dyno plot.

PS. Thanks to Aleph, PiYoImuT, MrBite, and 401-2001 for the help and having an ITR dyno meet.

 

Post your graph...that will help everyone decipher the problem(s).

 

tuning, invest in cam gears and/or v-afc like module.

 

Could it be possible that your mid-range is higher than all other ITR's, but your high end is close to stock numbers?

If you got Spoon 4-2-1, I don't think you'll gain much at high rpm. Also, AEM helps at around 3700-4500 (~10whp increase), but the max rpm whp gain is only 2-3 at best. Lastly, exhaust really don't do much with your stock cams.

I'm not saying your mods don't work, but you've gotta look at more than just your highest whp. You gotta see where you made power and where you lost it, etc. Then, get a VAFC or FPR to finely tune your setup for the needs you have.

I have a feeling that your mid-range power was A LOT better than the other guys. G'luck.

 

get a $50 SMSP 2.5 in. flange so that the 2 in. od choke point on tanabe B pipe cat flange does not reduce flow so drastically.

the rest may be tuning ignition timing and fuel pressure .


[Modified by Michael Delaney, 8:21 AM 10/29/2001]

 

.....Did you reset the ecu before trying to tune on the dyno?

I know it's a dumb question, but maybe obvious...

Cam gears, fuel tuning should help you. And what Cosworth said.

 

were they both sae numbers, and same dynos? each dyno is goign to give you different numbers. They are only used for tuning purposes not to rate horsepower. You should see how your times improve or worsen. Dynoing one day and months later isnt' goign to tell you if you lost or gained hp. There are just too many variables.

 

The runs were back to back on the same dyno (all cars tested). As for the graph I can truely tell you that his low end was stronger then mine (although all the stock ITR's dominated the mid-high range), which supports what all of you have already said. There was one thing that was completely evident though; his VTEC kicked hard. It shot up strong. But still the curve was not smooth to say the least, which indicates that fuel tuning would be helpful, correct? Maybe if there was a VTEC adjustment as well, that would help too.

Anyone have much experience with these?

 

As some manufacturers would say, "it's not about the highest WHP numbers... what counts is how efficiently the gas is moved in and out of the engine."

He definitely needs a dyno tune session with wideband O2 sensor. At least get a FPR or VAFC. Tune, baby, tune.

 

tuning tuning...tuning....i'm not saying you or the dyno guys don't know what they are doing but find someone with close to same mods as you and find out what they are doing....also every ENGINE is different!

 

are you trying to say he's passing gas?

 

Common problem.

The car is a system. You need to tune the entire system peice by peice. If you throw on some stuff becuase your buddy did it you might bet lucky, but more than likely it will get whacked. Theses are the standard Ford 302.

Mike (Rboosted717) has a good story about the first experiance with the JR super charger.

My advice would is, before you spend more money on trick parts, start from a known state (stock), and change 1 component. Tune it for the max then change 1 more part & tune. Yeah it's expensive and slow but it's the right way to do it. Then you have a paper trail of where you were and where you are now. You will know how each part changes the performance of your car too.

 

Here are the pictures of the dyno plots
The second picture compares 14.5 degrees vs. 18.0 degrees


[img]www.asarebar.com/marks/whp.gif[/img]

[img]www.asarebar.com/marks/timing.gif[/img]

Also the spoon header is a 4-2-1
Thanks for your help

 

Here are the pictures of the dyno plots
The second picture compares 14.5 degrees vs. 18.0 degrees






Also the spoon header is a 4-2-1
Thanks for your help

 

Hmm, why only to 7750 RPMS? that probably wouldn't explain the total loss in power, but maybe it's not as bad as you think.

 

MrFizz: do you still have the OEM stuff? what about going back to Stock on the engine and go Dyno again?
R U going gonna be at Keystone This Thursday nite?

 

The lower picture is a closeup of the weird back and forth he was getting between two runs after a timing change. The Dyno cuts off a little early because that's the window that was being used for the runs, you define a start and stop speed and run the car through that window, rather than defining by RPM. You can see the torque starts to fall off, so it's safe to say peak power was reached....Mike's dynojet always seems to be a little shifted on the RPM scale, I know that mustang was having some problems with their tach reading software, the fix they implemented (an extrnal box) may experience a little lag or something, i'll have to ask him about it.

Did you reset your ECU? I thought about that shortly after you left...doh!

 

not to make you worry but compression test??