what suspension set up tricks will help me hook at the track.
96 gsr with 555r nittos. tokico illuminas. i need to get my 60 ft times down i ran 9.51 at 74 in the eighth. 4.78fd r tranny also. my 60s were 2.3 as an average. i would like to know what would be the best shock settings for this set up and any other pertinent information. thank you
What psi are you using up front?
*Raise the pressure in your rear tires, this will help stop weight transfer a little
*Use stiff rear springs
*Maybe even use "straps" up front
I think with a good burnout you should be able to cut 1.9-2.0 60's with what you have now.
*Raise the pressure in your rear tires, this will help stop weight transfer a little
*Use stiff rear springs
*Maybe even use "straps" up front
I think with a good burnout you should be able to cut 1.9-2.0 60's with what you have now.
put it at "5" setting in the rear and "1" setting in the front. get some jimfab traction bars. set your tire psi to 18 and do a slight burnout. stage and hold your rpms at 6200 rpm and side step the clutch. keep it in vtec off the launch and expect some decent times
with my illuminas i ave the set at 5 all around for drag (this is also stated by tokico)but play with it and see what works best ...and stiff springs in the rear help stop the weight transfer ...and limiting straps could help you also do a search on ti and you will get some info ...and a little burnout before will help heat the tires and maybe play with the psr i hear 18-20 for azenis but it mite be differnt for 555's
They make inserts to stiffen springs, im sure they work but im not sure how much. Also search for the suspension binding trick where you bind your front suspension up so it can't "expand". Also try using some VHT on your tires to increase traction. or another similar compound.
I changed my rear springs to the skunk2 drags and also I got the Hasport billet mounts and that reduced my 60' from 1.9's to 1.7.
That was on slicks though
That was on slicks though
Trending Topics
Tires:
front tires at 17psi
Rear tires at 55 psi (pump those bad boys up)
Suspension:
Lower the front
loosen the front shocks
Jack the rear up
Full stiff on the rear shocks
preload the clutch at the starting line (meaning let your clutch out enough to where its starting to grab but if you let it out any more it'll lurch the car forward).... launch around 5500-6500 and feather the clutch so you're in VTEC throughout the entire launch... then go like hell
front tires at 17psi
Rear tires at 55 psi (pump those bad boys up)
Suspension:
Lower the front
loosen the front shocks
Jack the rear up
Full stiff on the rear shocks
preload the clutch at the starting line (meaning let your clutch out enough to where its starting to grab but if you let it out any more it'll lurch the car forward).... launch around 5500-6500 and feather the clutch so you're in VTEC throughout the entire launch... then go like hell
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by erics99si »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Tires:
front tires at 17psi
Rear tires at 55 psi (pump those bad boys up)
Suspension:
Lower the front
loosen the front shocks
Jack the rear up
Full stiff on the rear shocks
preload the clutch at the starting line (meaning let your clutch out enough to where its starting to grab but if you let it out any more it'll lurch the car forward).... launch around 5500-6500 and feather the clutch so you're in VTEC throughout the entire launch... then go like hell
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Why lower the front and jack up the rear? the reverse would seem to make a difference. Wouldn't you want as much weight as possible on the front tires (raise the front)? Also, why go as low as 17psi? i've never had luck that low. I've had better luck around 24psi. Also, preloading isn't that important on street tires since breaking axels isn't a problem. Sorry, i wasn't trying to flame you, just want to see where your comming from.
front tires at 17psi
Rear tires at 55 psi (pump those bad boys up)
Suspension:
Lower the front
loosen the front shocks
Jack the rear up
Full stiff on the rear shocks
preload the clutch at the starting line (meaning let your clutch out enough to where its starting to grab but if you let it out any more it'll lurch the car forward).... launch around 5500-6500 and feather the clutch so you're in VTEC throughout the entire launch... then go like hell
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Why lower the front and jack up the rear? the reverse would seem to make a difference. Wouldn't you want as much weight as possible on the front tires (raise the front)? Also, why go as low as 17psi? i've never had luck that low. I've had better luck around 24psi. Also, preloading isn't that important on street tires since breaking axels isn't a problem. Sorry, i wasn't trying to flame you, just want to see where your comming from.
i think he means have a lower shock setting in the front while keeping the front springs at a lower height. have the rear shocks at the stiffest setting while keeping it at a taller height.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by myhatchrips »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i think he means have a lower shock setting in the front while keeping the front springs at a lower height. have the rear shocks at the stiffest setting while keeping it at a taller height.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
correct... you want more weight on the front tires since those are the tires you want to keep stuck to the track... The reason for lifting the rear and lowering the front is because it'll help keep that weight on the front tires when in your launch... Having the rear higher than the front...when you launch the car will shift the weight backwards like it usually does, but instead of the car transfering all that weight to the rear, the car will now be level since since the back was origionally higher and the car will be able to keep the weight more on the front.. make sense?
</TD></TR></TABLE>correct... you want more weight on the front tires since those are the tires you want to keep stuck to the track... The reason for lifting the rear and lowering the front is because it'll help keep that weight on the front tires when in your launch... Having the rear higher than the front...when you launch the car will shift the weight backwards like it usually does, but instead of the car transfering all that weight to the rear, the car will now be level since since the back was origionally higher and the car will be able to keep the weight more on the front.. make sense?
Yeah, that makes sense. I've thought about this quite a bit and never really came up with a conclusion though. I have adjustable coilovers and wouldn't it make sense to have the front a little higher so that there is more weight on the front tires? the domestic guys jack up the rear cause they want weight on the rear tires, wouldn't we want to jack up the front to put weight on the front tires? the front will lift up an inch or two either way, but wouldn't it be better to have the front have lots of weight to lift up than a little bit of weight. I see both sides of the argument, i just dont know which one is right... I might have to test both at the track sometime. Eric99si, do you think this applys to shocks as well as coilover springs the same? hmmm any input? do you see where im comming from as well?
front wheel drive cars need all the weight transfer it can get towards the front wheels. remember you're trying to put all the power down to the front wheels. by having your front adjustable shocks set at softer setting followed by having the adjustable coil overs set at a lower height you will be doing just that. the rear just needs to be set at the stiffest setting and at a taller height than the front so you can eliminate the rear sag as much as possible.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by erics99si »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">soften/lower the front
stiffen/raise the rear
It WILL work and improve your times... Promise!!
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Thanks eric, i was going to do the exact opisite, but you seem pretty sure about it, so i'll do it your way. Thanks. Any guess what is more important, adjustable shocks or adjustable coilovers? I would think about picking up some adjustable shocks if it drops my 60'. My shocks are pretty damn old, but it doesn't seem like I need new ones. any one have any before and after expericence with new shocks they want to share? sorry for takin over your thread man, but im keeping it sorta on topic
stiffen/raise the rear
It WILL work and improve your times... Promise!!
</TD></TR></TABLE>Thanks eric, i was going to do the exact opisite, but you seem pretty sure about it, so i'll do it your way. Thanks. Any guess what is more important, adjustable shocks or adjustable coilovers? I would think about picking up some adjustable shocks if it drops my 60'. My shocks are pretty damn old, but it doesn't seem like I need new ones. any one have any before and after expericence with new shocks they want to share? sorry for takin over your thread man, but im keeping it sorta on topic
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Cyphear »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Thanks eric, i was going to do the exact opisite, but you seem pretty sure about it, so i'll do it your way. Thanks. Any guess what is more important, adjustable shocks or adjustable coilovers? I would think about picking up some adjustable shocks if it drops my 60'. My shocks are pretty damn old, but it doesn't seem like I need new ones. any one have any before and after expericence with new shocks they want to share? sorry for takin over your thread man, but im keeping it sorta on topic
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Both will help... If your gonna buy them one at a time... do the adjustable shocks first, then the coilovers second.
what you could do is run a few passes like you normally do, THEN try my advice (lower/soft front, high/hard rear) the next few passes and see what gives you the best results... put it this way... with those settings on my car, I pulled 13.50 @ 101 in my SI coupe with a bone stock ITR motor... mid 13's is basically unheard of with a stock ITR in a heavier coupe.
Good Luck!
Thanks eric, i was going to do the exact opisite, but you seem pretty sure about it, so i'll do it your way. Thanks. Any guess what is more important, adjustable shocks or adjustable coilovers? I would think about picking up some adjustable shocks if it drops my 60'. My shocks are pretty damn old, but it doesn't seem like I need new ones. any one have any before and after expericence with new shocks they want to share? sorry for takin over your thread man, but im keeping it sorta on topic
</TD></TR></TABLE>Both will help... If your gonna buy them one at a time... do the adjustable shocks first, then the coilovers second.
what you could do is run a few passes like you normally do, THEN try my advice (lower/soft front, high/hard rear) the next few passes and see what gives you the best results... put it this way... with those settings on my car, I pulled 13.50 @ 101 in my SI coupe with a bone stock ITR motor... mid 13's is basically unheard of with a stock ITR in a heavier coupe.
Good Luck!
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Cyphear »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">any other "traction mods" besides shocks/springs/ITR tranny?</TD></TR></TABLE>
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