Ok guys, like the title says...need a few tips. This is for a street car that sees the track from time to time. I originally had the rear end up high and front down low, but after doing alot of reading, I decided to lower the rear back down to keep weight transfer down and center of gravity better. I also had the front and rear dampers turned all the way up. I'm thinking the fronts need to be turned down and the rears left up. Also, after looking up nums on the coilover spring...they are a 10k (front) 12k(rear). Would putting a softer front help me out? The car has traction bars and was pulling 1.72-1.75 (60ft) but unloaded the tires the rest of the way down the track. I'm trying to avoid the spin show this coming spring and knock those 60ft down in the 1.5-1.6 range. Figured if I can get the suspension set up the car should do decent. Just need a few suggestions from the higher hp guys on how to get this thing set on suspension so I can get a decent pass out of it. Last outing at the track was HORRIBLE!!! The ET is nowhere near the mph ..haha
1.73 60ft
7.40@105
11.50@133-135
Spinfest....
The car should make a lil more whp this outing to so I DEF need help!! The car now has every polyurethane bushing u can put on it in it along w/a 10pt chromoly cage.

HELP ME OUT GUYS!!!! Thanks

 

Are you running slicks? You definitely have 10 second trap speeds.

 

Yes ...car was on slicks (24.5x9.5x13) I bought them used and the depth indicators had alot of life left en em, but they wouldn't get soft like they needed to, even did 2nd gear burnouts. I ran the 11.50@133 on (225/50/15) MT drag radials. I got a set of new slicks for this spring, so that issue will be gone. Just really need to know how to go about setting the damper for front and rear, and weather or not the spring rates I listed may be tossing the car backwards under acceleration. Any suggestions guys?

 

were you doing first gear burnouts? cause u said you even tried doing 2nd gear burnouts. have you tried 3rd gear burnouts

 

yeah you should be doing your burnouts in 3rd, you'll hook alot better. what rpm you launching at as well?

 

Even without getting 1.60 60ft's you should be able to run 10's how much air are you running in the tires? Is the track prepped ? What rpm are you launching at? Did you make sur eyou shifts after the 60ft box ? What rpm are you revving to ?

 

also in for some info...so its best to ride 1st to the 60ft mark? or shift before?

 

You need to do 3rd gear burn outs and ride first gear psst the tree before you shift

 

I'm a noob driver with similar times so don't feel bad.
7.6 1/8th @ 97
11.5 1/4th @ 128
24x8.5 slicks & skinnies
500whp & 2,370 lbs bodykit civic lol



For sure you got enough power for high 10's

I don't think the issue is suspension at this time. When i was thinking about changing spring rates, others who have gone from 11.5 to 10.8 range recently (within the past year) has told me it was all the seat time... not suspension, nor more power, just seat time to getting a better feel of the car under racing conditions which improves drivers timing of shifts (not rpm) & shifting/speed.

not sure if that rant makes sense not.

 

Yeah I was doing 2nd gear burn outs, and i let 1st gear bounce 2-3 times which puts me out past the 60ft. The 60ft isn't terrible, it's the rest of the track that's sucking. I ran 8psi cold which was prob around 10after the burnout. It's not really seat time I don't think...I ran 7.20@99 and 11.50@123 on 150less whp...lol it just seems to be unloading the suspension down the track which has me asking about the spring rates I mentioned and the damper settings I asked about (all which got over looked apparently..lol) If anybody can help me out on those, I can Prob get the car to do what it's suppose to do from there. Just wanna iron the prob out bc when i put it back on the rollers it's going on E85 and a few more psi so need to solve the issue before dyno time comes. Thanks guys

 

Lower your tires more cold should be like 6 psi after the burnout they will go to 6.5 or 7.0 also do u have any data log of the runs since u say its. Down the track loosing time we can see how quick your shifts are when I seen mine for the first time I was drop like 8 mph a shift I was shocked cause it felt like I was shifting fast lol guess not fast enough

 

Yeah you want to set them to 6.5 cold they will come up to 7.5-8 and go from there. I've had the best traction on 7-7.2 psi in my tires so far. Yes shift after the 60 ft into 2nd gear even if your on the limiter becasue most likely your on the limiter due to wheel spin anyhow. Depends on track temp how big or small of a burnout you want to do. The pros says you want tires +or- 10 degrees from the track temp. I've found warmer tires on a really cold track hook and when track temp comes up small burn outs and a little raise in tire pressure is better.

Merry Christmas !

 

No data logs of the runs, and I'll give the lower tire pressure (6-6.5) a try when I go back out. Thanks. I'm still wanting to hear about the MAIN 2 things I asked though if anybody has any insight on those. My damper settings and spring rate (read previous post at too) I honestly believe this is where most of the prob is

 

The springs rates aren't ideal for drag racing but there not terrible. You can buy some 18ks for the rear and out the 12k up front. How adjustable are you shocks? Can you set bound and rebound valving or just 1-5 ?

 

I pulled 1.62 60' on completely stock suspension. Suspension isn't your issue. As long as your car is aligned you should be good. Seat time and track tuning make the biggest difference. Tire pressure at 6psi 2 step set around 6-7k and Wastegate set to spring pressure off the line are the basics. Every car is different you just need to play around with it.

 

The 2step was at 6500...and I'll Prob raise it just a lil. I know seat time has alot to do w/it. I've had this car for 10yrs , d series,b series all motor,and b series 3diff turbo set ups. The car makes over 500whp on pump gas. I'm still thinking suspension had a big thing to do w/it here. And I don't wanna do 14k front 18K rear as I stated before its a REAL STREET CAR...lol and that's just too damn ruff. I've seen lower rates do just as good. But I think it's the diff on the front and rear on mine. I'll just have to play w/it and figure it out I guess

 

If your algnment is good the springs wont help all that much. You've got to work on trie presures, launch rpm and boost by gear

My car blows the tires off in 1-3 yet there are people on 24.5x9 which isnt much larger than my 8.5's running deep 9's and even 8's so i know its got a lot to do with the way power comes on and how much power is being ran in each gear. I'm personally switching to 9.5 wide slick because the one class i am going to run allows that wide of a tire so why not. I also know i've got a lot of setup to do tuning wise. Its work in progress and you have to just keep makin changes and see what works best