Car still problematic...but less so than before
OK so after a few shitty months with the R here's my status. It started with the problems with my Comptech flywheel, https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=767979, and continued with my trip to the drag strip, https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=805235. Basically after wheel hop kicked my *** at the drag strip a strong vibration made itself apparent from the front of the car at 35mph and above. I replaced the axles and the problem lessened, but still remained. It ended up that one of the new reman axles was a dud, so I replaced it and the probelm was lessened further.
At this point the car would seem OK until about 60mph where a vibration would come to life from the front of the car. I had the tires rebalanced and the problem persisted. The vibration seemed more violent at high rpm during full throttle, mainly in 2nd and 3rd gear.
Aggrivated, I swapped out the stock pressure plate and clutch disc in place of the ACT units. The vibration now is very slight in normal driving, perhaps not even there, as it's been so long since I've been driving the car on a normal basis it's hard for me to remember how smooth it used to be. The vibration or shuddering now only seems to occur during full throttle under hard acceleration, most felt in 2nd and 3rd gear. Also it seems more apparent aroind tight turns under hard acceleration in low gears.
I'm pretty sure the problem had something to do with my fight with wheel hop at the drag strip a few weeks ago. What could it be? The only thing I can think of is the diff. I did some searching on the site and found that the stock LSD has been known to fall victium to wheel hop. My probelm seems different in that the car still drive ok under normal curcumstances. Could this just be the beginning of the diff on its way out?
I guess I'll take the car by a Honda specialist here in town and see what he thinks. Until then I'll start saving funds for the eventual repairs. Also if anyone local has had similar probelms and found the fix, I 'd love to have you meet up and take the car for a spin. Any suggestions you guys have would be helpful as the R and myself are in a bit of a slump. Thanks a lot.
At this point the car would seem OK until about 60mph where a vibration would come to life from the front of the car. I had the tires rebalanced and the problem persisted. The vibration seemed more violent at high rpm during full throttle, mainly in 2nd and 3rd gear.
Aggrivated, I swapped out the stock pressure plate and clutch disc in place of the ACT units. The vibration now is very slight in normal driving, perhaps not even there, as it's been so long since I've been driving the car on a normal basis it's hard for me to remember how smooth it used to be. The vibration or shuddering now only seems to occur during full throttle under hard acceleration, most felt in 2nd and 3rd gear. Also it seems more apparent aroind tight turns under hard acceleration in low gears.
I'm pretty sure the problem had something to do with my fight with wheel hop at the drag strip a few weeks ago. What could it be? The only thing I can think of is the diff. I did some searching on the site and found that the stock LSD has been known to fall victium to wheel hop. My probelm seems different in that the car still drive ok under normal curcumstances. Could this just be the beginning of the diff on its way out?
I guess I'll take the car by a Honda specialist here in town and see what he thinks. Until then I'll start saving funds for the eventual repairs. Also if anyone local has had similar probelms and found the fix, I 'd love to have you meet up and take the car for a spin. Any suggestions you guys have would be helpful as the R and myself are in a bit of a slump. Thanks a lot.
I vaguely remember reading that an LSD doesnt just start to go bad. Its either bad or its good, no in between. I dont know much about LSDs though so I cant really state my own opinion as far as that goes.
Have you gotten an alightment recently? Things could have gotten shaken out of alignment with all that wheel hop. How much camber to you have? I had a bad problem with camber awhile ago(0 to positive camber) and it caused a ton of wheel hop and vibration. I replaced my upper control arms with the adjustable skunk arms and set the camber to around -1.3 degrees and set the toe to 1/8th out, and wheel hop is no longer a problem unless Im launching really hard off the line with drag radials. But thats only if I drop the clutch really hard.
Have you gotten an alightment recently? Things could have gotten shaken out of alignment with all that wheel hop. How much camber to you have? I had a bad problem with camber awhile ago(0 to positive camber) and it caused a ton of wheel hop and vibration. I replaced my upper control arms with the adjustable skunk arms and set the camber to around -1.3 degrees and set the toe to 1/8th out, and wheel hop is no longer a problem unless Im launching really hard off the line with drag radials. But thats only if I drop the clutch really hard.
Alignment is the only thing I have yet to do. I had the alignment done at the Honda dealer before VIR last summer and I was at -2.1 front and -1.8 rear with 1/16" total toe out in the front and zero toe in the rear. Would an alignment problem really cause susch a shaking? Thanks for the imput.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by .RJ »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Inner CV.</TD></TR></TABLE>
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by HondaRcB »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Alignment is the only thing I have yet to do. I had the alignment done at the Honda dealer before VIR last summer and I was at -2.1 front and -1.8 rear with 1/16" total toe out in the front and zero toe in the rear. Would an alignment problem really cause susch a shaking? Thanks for the imput.</TD></TR></TABLE>
it could, especially at higher speeds.. could theoretically be a wheel bearing too, but i doubt it..
it could, especially at higher speeds.. could theoretically be a wheel bearing too, but i doubt it..
We couldn't find any play in thye passenger side wheel bearing, and the driver's side was just replaced. Damn it. I'm really doubting Inner CV as they've been replaced twice in the last week, the second time just for good measure and abusing the lifetime warranty.
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After driving the car this morning I got to thinking. The car now feels fine everywhere in normal driving, and only vibrates/shudders under hard acceleration aka flooring it. Could the Advanced Auto Reman axles really be so shitty as to cause such a shuddering? Someone said they also sell new units, but after asking at my local store they don't, or atleast they don't around here.
Also my dad's buying an EK hatch with a B18C swap and a 5 lug conversion. Would his axles be the same as mine? It'd be easy to swap them out to determine if the axles are the problem, without having to spend money on something else.
Also my dad's buying an EK hatch with a B18C swap and a 5 lug conversion. Would his axles be the same as mine? It'd be easy to swap them out to determine if the axles are the problem, without having to spend money on something else.
I would do an alignment. You might not notice a problem at normal town or city speeds, but out on the highway, or under hard accel at the drag strip, you would probably feel it. Its the only thing you havent checked yet so why not do it rather than trying a 3rd set of axles?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RTW DC2 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I would do an alignment. You might not notice a problem at normal town or city speeds, but out on the highway, or under hard accel at the drag strip, you would probably feel it. Its the only thing you havent checked yet so why not do it rather than trying a 3rd set of axles?</TD></TR></TABLE>
yep.. that's my vote.. alignment.. if it still exists, get a different kind of axle..
yep.. that's my vote.. alignment.. if it still exists, get a different kind of axle..
I think theres a method for testing limited slip where you jack up one tire, put the car in neutral, and then try to turn the tire thats in the air with a torque wrench. Acura should have a torque specification as to when the tire should start rotating. I could be wrong about how this test is done though as I've never done it myself.
Also, I dont know if this would be a safe or proper test, but if you jacked up one wheel and secured the car well, and then started it up, and accelerated hard, you might atleast be able to see what side of the car is causing the vibration. Be careful though...
Also, I dont know if this would be a safe or proper test, but if you jacked up one wheel and secured the car well, and then started it up, and accelerated hard, you might atleast be able to see what side of the car is causing the vibration. Be careful though...
I suppose I'll take it in and have the alignment done, though I'm not sure I follow how it would affect my current problem. How would the alignment affect the shuddering/vibration only occuring under hard acceleration? The shuddering does not take place under light acceleration no matter what the speed. I had it up to 90-100 just cruising and the car felt fine. Maybe the axles are just shitty? If thats the case I can swap out the ones I know are good from a B18C 5 lug EK if they're the same axles to hopefully finally find the culprit to my problems. On the plus side my dad and I are getting very good at taking the tranny on and off.
If you have one wheel like this | and another like this / then you wont notice at low accel levels. But under hard accel or at speed, you will definitely feel it. does it pull at all on the highway?
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dpi1990civic
Honda CRX / EF Civic (1988 - 1991)
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Mar 2, 2019 08:35 PM



