my turbo setup is pretty much complete, it runs but runs like crap right now cause i need to get it tuned on a dyno for street driving using my vafc. i want to get a few parts here and there before it gets on the dyno incase there are any problems..

what should i use to eliminate a map sensor code? i currently have a drag turbo kit on my fully built gsr motor.. i know i can get a gm 3bar map sensor but i dont have hondata yet to tune it. is it possible to us the 3bar map sensor without hondata? also would a missing link setup get rid of my CEL?? http://www.makeitfast.com/prod.../3265 i know a missing link is similar in a way to the check valvles, but are check valves still needed w/ the missing link?

*for tuning i have a
vafc
greddy proffec b spec2
msd digital 6
apexi a/f guage (plan on using wideban o2 sensor when tuning)
apexi oil and egt guages
walbro 255lph fuel pump

any help guiding me would be great.. i just got into FI and its awesome just wish the car would run a little better. i want to be able to tune it to about 15 psi for street and set it at 10psi daily and be able to turn it up a little higher when im at the track racing. thanks agian
Ryan

 

just cause you have a gm 3 bar wont help you. you can hook one up if you want but youll still get a map code. with a gsr motor you will need to do 1 of these things.

1. missing link
2. block off the map hole with a plate (b&m makes them) and use check valves
3. get bigger injectors (440's of so) and run whats know as the hack.(not reccomended IMO)
4. you can get a smc (???) i think it is and that limits the map signal.
5. you can get hondata or another form of EM.

and if you choose to run 15 psi then you NEED a good EM system. you couldnt pay me to run the vafc for EM on 15psi. its just asking for problems IMO. especially with a built motor if you skimp on the most important thing (engine management) your wasting your money.

Landon

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by boosted_dc2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">just cause you have a gm 3 bar wont help you. you can hook one up if you want but youll still get a map code. with a gsr motor you will need to do 1 of these things.

1. missing link
2. block off the map hole with a plate (b&m makes them) and use check valves
3. get bigger injectors (440's of so) and run whats know as the hack.(not reccomended IMO)
4. you can get a smc (???) i think it is and that limits the map signal.
5. you can get hondata or another form of EM.

and if you choose to run 15 psi then you NEED a good EM system. you couldnt pay me to run the vafc for EM on 15psi. its just asking for problems IMO. especially with a built motor if you skimp on the most important thing (engine management) your wasting your money.

Landon</TD></TR></TABLE>

opppss.. sorry i forgot to say that i have RC 440cc injectors aswell...

i have a block off plate for the map sensor and am currently running it w/ 3 check valves, the ones that came in the drag kit..

with the 440cc injectors and check valves i am still getting the a map sensor code, could my map sensor be bad?? if its bad should i just go ahead and get a GM 3bar sensor, and if i do get the 3bar sensor will the car still run w/ out an EM unit?? also with the missing link does that eliminate the check valves??

as for EM i plan on getting either hondata or uberdata but i need to save some money up and take care of bills before i play with the car..

 

what do you have the vafc set to??? does it idle okay??? also is it obd1 or 2???

Landon

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by boosted_dc2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">what do you have the vafc set to??? does it idle okay??? also is it obd1 or 2???

Landon</TD></TR></TABLE>

i do not know the exact settings but i know for idle it is set at -35 and goes up from there.. it has some hessitation from 2k-4k depending on what gear i am and how much throttle.. it has a HARD time getting past 5k most the time, i think i need to work on the narrow throttle settings cause it jerks past 5k but if i get on it from a start it does fine cause im at full throttle i guess

im using a kenji itr spec chipped obd1 p28 ecu

any ideas how i can make it move a little smoother?

 

well first of all get rid of the check valves if you have the 440's. thats making your problem worse cause the map is not sending enough voltage when you start to boost. then see if you can get a stock ecu, that might help believe it or not. but agiain i warn you do not boost more than 7 psi wht that setup.

Landon

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by boosted_dc2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">well first of all get rid of the check valves if you have the 440's. thats making your problem worse cause the map is not sending enough voltage when you start to boost. then see if you can get a stock ecu, that might help believe it or not. but agiain i warn you do not boost more than 7 psi wht that setup.

Landon</TD></TR></TABLE>

ok ill remove the check valves tonight after work.. i have a stock ecu that i can use in the car as well so that might solve 2 of my problems.. as for setting it to 7 psi, can i simply dissconnect the greddy profec b spec 2 boost control and let the turbo boost up to the wastegate spring which i think is 7lbs??? the turbo is not boosting more then 10psi right now btw. ill have to read up on the how to exactly use the boost controller. any idea what i should set the settings to?

thanks and once agian thanks for all the help, like i said before i just bought this car after building it for my roomate who moved and im completly new to FI setups.

 

ok ttt for the night and hopefully someone can help me..

i removed the check valves tonight after work but i did keep the itr spec p28 ecu in there cause i could not get the p72 tonight..

i reset the ecu and everything was cool, no map codes, nothing.. went out driving and BAM code 3 map sensor.. how do i test the map sensor to make sure it hasnt gone bad? i have it hooked up directly to the throttle body no bypass valves, no missing link, just its self and still get a code, the car does not boost over 10psi and im still in the process of playing with the vafc according to the apexi a/f, im gonna go out tomarrow and order an EGT sensor so i can look at that also. any ideas??

 

do you have the vafc set right??? you need the sensor to be 6 in and 6 out.

Landon

 

you need to do some research on the "afc hack" and figure out how to set it up correctly.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by boosted_dc2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">do you have the vafc set right??? you need the sensor to be 6 in and 6 out.

Landon</TD></TR></TABLE>

yes the sensor is set to 6 in 6 out and still the problems.. im gonna plug in the p72 ecu tomorrow and see how it goes.. i think i might be getting the code 3 cause of wiring or the vafc, im gonna swap in the new map sensor tomorrow as well and see how it goes..

i also talked to the shop that is more than likely gonna do the tuning and highly recommeded honda s200 w/ boost so that is gonna be my next goal before i do the suspension swap, i want the car to be reliable to drive, the suspension can wait a month or two till i get it all taken care of..

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ndogg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you need to do some research on the "afc hack" and figure out how to set it up correctly.</TD></TR></TABLE>

trust me ive done alot of research sitting at work with nothing to do.. im going to go hondata since i cant get anyone to tune a uberdata in the NOVA area!