My setup is on the right:




The first 30 amp switch near the fuel pump is spliced about 1 foot away from the fuel pump. The 14 guage wire on that line is about 2.4 feet long (red/black wires in that diagram).

The second 25 amp switch near the fuel pump is spliced about 2.5 feet fromt he fuel pump. The 14 guage on that one is about 3.5 feet long (red/black wires in that diagram)..

Anyways, when the kill switches are ENGAGED, the car just cranks.

When the kill switches are DISENGAGED, the car will start, but will die if i try to drive it.

 

Im guessing your switches are wired wrong.

The wire going to the fuel pump should be hooked to the middle prong on the switch

 

I think wiring was right, cus the car doesn't start when the killswitches are ON, but it can only idle when the killswitches are off.

Sorry though, i forgot to mention the idling. When killswitches are off, the car can idle for forever. I'm thinking that since the engine idles at 1k, it's getting enough gas to sustain operation. But, if i step on the gas pedal to raise the rpms (and to raise the amount of gas needed), then the car will die. I believe the fuel pump isn't getting enough juice.

My electrical engineer buddy told me that through all my splices and crimp on connections, there might be too much extra resistance, which lowers (volts or amps, i'm an electrical newb). Does that sound reasonable?

 

yes it does. Also remember, as the demand on the fuel pump increases so does the amps required to run it

 

i have heard you should run a relay.

 

This Might Sound redundant but you should always use a larger guage wire when extending a wire. Fuel pumps are very temperamental when it comes to voltage. I would measure the voltage at the pump with a DMM and go back through and solder and heat shrink all connections. Also check resistance on the switches, be sure they are functioning properly.

 

Well, everything works now! I soldered all the connections, so everything's linked up tight