B-18C1 Build
Ok guys, i have a h22a in a EG. I dont know half as much about B series builds as you guys, but my girlfriend just baught a 2001 GSR
What mods are the most effective. What cams, B-16 head??? what pistons(jdm or forged?? what comp?? manifold. And so on
help me out, maybe some setups with some numbers would help. Just if you can, post your setups and what you thought of the mods you did
What mods are the most effective. What cams, B-16 head??? what pistons(jdm or forged?? what comp?? manifold. And so on
help me out, maybe some setups with some numbers would help. Just if you can, post your setups and what you thought of the mods you did
Yeah, well money is not a concern. I want the highest HP i can get, But i also want it to be reliable. And no, i dont really care about the warrenty.
Like, i want her to have a high reving motor. 9000rpms +?? higher comp 11.5:1 or more??
I'm fairly partial to Skunk2 products, and with all your experiences are they the best?? Will i need to touch the crank and bearings???
just write me up a list of what the BEST B18c1 set up would be.
Like, i want her to have a high reving motor. 9000rpms +?? higher comp 11.5:1 or more??
I'm fairly partial to Skunk2 products, and with all your experiences are they the best?? Will i need to touch the crank and bearings???
just write me up a list of what the BEST B18c1 set up would be.
If you want BIG HP, go with a DRAG turbo kit. It'll put up some high power with excellent torque. Stengthen the internals and your good to go. Reliability wise, it always varies. It's all about tuning and boosting at a responsible level. On the other hand there is an all-motor setup. Go with TODA spec B and all those other stuff (ie. camgears, high compression piston kit, individual throttle body, etc..)
all these ***** are their instant "TURBO" bandwagon bullshit... honestly, its stupid
Turbo cars are notorious for not being reliable
Building an all motor street car with ITBs and stuff is retarded
If you want lots of power ALL MOTOR but still reliable... this engine uses mostly OEM honda parts:
PCT piston, 81.25mm factory overbore (Civic type r pistons)
Use your stock rods, Shot peen them if you so desire
Stock crank
BALANCE THE **** OUT OF IT, the balance needs to be perfect
use OEM honda bearings... I shot for .015" across the board (rods and crank)
ARP headstuds and rod bolts
Take that head and send the bitch to Portflow (http://www.portflow.com)
Send along a set of ITR valves and Toda Valve springs
Have them install the valves with their own bronze valve guides, and Ti Retainers
Mate that up with some Toda Spec Cs when it gets home
I'd probably go ahead and put a new water pump, oil pump, toda cam gears and toda belt on it while I was at it
Oh yea, your going to need a hondata
I'd also hide some peak and hold gauges in the glove box to keep an eye on the little fella... probably just oil pressure, EGT, and maybe something else
The advantage is, its cast pistons so it wont uberfuck your sleves like forged will
The other option is building a light 9-10:1 compression motor with sleeves and forged internals and dumping some nitrous on it... atleast that way the engine wont eat gas under normal driving conditions and it will only have power when you want it to
Turbo cars are notorious for not being reliable
Building an all motor street car with ITBs and stuff is retarded
If you want lots of power ALL MOTOR but still reliable... this engine uses mostly OEM honda parts:
PCT piston, 81.25mm factory overbore (Civic type r pistons)
Use your stock rods, Shot peen them if you so desire
Stock crank
BALANCE THE **** OUT OF IT, the balance needs to be perfect
use OEM honda bearings... I shot for .015" across the board (rods and crank)
ARP headstuds and rod bolts
Take that head and send the bitch to Portflow (http://www.portflow.com)
Send along a set of ITR valves and Toda Valve springs
Have them install the valves with their own bronze valve guides, and Ti Retainers
Mate that up with some Toda Spec Cs when it gets home
I'd probably go ahead and put a new water pump, oil pump, toda cam gears and toda belt on it while I was at it
Oh yea, your going to need a hondata
I'd also hide some peak and hold gauges in the glove box to keep an eye on the little fella... probably just oil pressure, EGT, and maybe something else
The advantage is, its cast pistons so it wont uberfuck your sleves like forged will
The other option is building a light 9-10:1 compression motor with sleeves and forged internals and dumping some nitrous on it... atleast that way the engine wont eat gas under normal driving conditions and it will only have power when you want it to
The car is being daily driven by a girl?
Go jrsc and call it a day. At 6psi, it makes good power, and still maintains some semblance of reliability, and good low end for the street.
Go jrsc and call it a day. At 6psi, it makes good power, and still maintains some semblance of reliability, and good low end for the street.
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hypa »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The car is being daily driven by a girl?
Go jrsc and call it a day. At 6psi, it makes good power, and still maintains some semblance of reliability, and good low end for the street.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Im kinda going with this route to be honest. It will produce about the same power as a GOOD all motor setup, be reliable and still have more low end power. Im personally doing a motor build up on my car this weekend...please note, this is what Im personally doing to my car...its not my bullshit opinion that im posting just to run up my post count.
AEM V2
bored TB to 64mm
P&P'd GSR intake manifold
Toda As
skunk2 valvesprings
JDM ITR pistons(11.2-11.3:1 CR)
Eagle Rods
P&P'd head
Lightened and balanced valves
5 angle valve job
hytech/smsp/hybrid header(has yet to be bought)
exhaust(again...not bought yet)
Fuel Management will be:
RC 370cc injectors
Hondata S200
B&M FPR
bigger fuel pump if needed.
toda cam gears might be added later as well
Go jrsc and call it a day. At 6psi, it makes good power, and still maintains some semblance of reliability, and good low end for the street.
</TD></TR></TABLE>Im kinda going with this route to be honest. It will produce about the same power as a GOOD all motor setup, be reliable and still have more low end power. Im personally doing a motor build up on my car this weekend...please note, this is what Im personally doing to my car...its not my bullshit opinion that im posting just to run up my post count.
AEM V2
bored TB to 64mm
P&P'd GSR intake manifold
Toda As
skunk2 valvesprings
JDM ITR pistons(11.2-11.3:1 CR)
Eagle Rods
P&P'd head
Lightened and balanced valves
5 angle valve job
hytech/smsp/hybrid header(has yet to be bought)
exhaust(again...not bought yet)
Fuel Management will be:
RC 370cc injectors
Hondata S200
B&M FPR
bigger fuel pump if needed.
toda cam gears might be added later as well
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by FastSS »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">all these ***** are their instant "TURBO" bandwagon bullshit... honestly, its stupid
Turbo cars are notorious for not being reliable</TD></TR></TABLE>
Agreed, but they are looking for the most hp, which isnt the most reliable. And this is my gf, not my car. I dont want her to die, lol.
I was thinking along the same lines as FastSS, but more some skunk2 products (IM, Valves, valvesprings and retainers.)
BUT how is Toda compared to skunks products. See i have a H22a, and Toda doesnt make anyhting for H-series. I'm hear to lear, any feedback on Toda products
Turbo cars are notorious for not being reliable</TD></TR></TABLE>
Agreed, but they are looking for the most hp, which isnt the most reliable. And this is my gf, not my car. I dont want her to die, lol.
I was thinking along the same lines as FastSS, but more some skunk2 products (IM, Valves, valvesprings and retainers.)
BUT how is Toda compared to skunks products. See i have a H22a, and Toda doesnt make anyhting for H-series. I'm hear to lear, any feedback on Toda products
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