wont go pass 2 psi
Ive just installed a greddy kit onto my d15b, and am having a hard time producing any boost. The most my cars seems to do is 2 psi at like 4500. Ive also noticed a rattling noise, as if something were loose. Not really sure where to go from here, and help would be appreciated.
tia,
chazz
tia,
chazz
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by kyle h. »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">possibly an intercooler pipe rattling, that is loose, and you are leaking air
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Actually its non-intercooled right now. Im waiting to get this thing running right before I bother installing my fmic. are there any key areas to check for vaccum leakage?
</TD></TR></TABLE>Actually its non-intercooled right now. Im waiting to get this thing running right before I bother installing my fmic. are there any key areas to check for vaccum leakage?
yeah all your pipes for one . . . . spray all the areas with carb cleaner and if your idle varies then you found your leak.
Check to make sure that your WG Actuator is hooked up properly . . . and most of all check to see if the actuator is closing the flapper on the turbo or if the flapper is stuck open for some reason.
I expereinced the very same problem on my mitsubishi 14b turbo and my flapper was stuck open so it was only making like 1-2psi
Hope that helps
Check to make sure that your WG Actuator is hooked up properly . . . and most of all check to see if the actuator is closing the flapper on the turbo or if the flapper is stuck open for some reason.
I expereinced the very same problem on my mitsubishi 14b turbo and my flapper was stuck open so it was only making like 1-2psi
Hope that helps
Pressurize your piping. But a cover over the turbo inlet, and then use an air compressor to compress the piping. It should hold pressure. Listen for a PPPSSSSSTTTTTTTTT sound of leaking air.
liam
liam
Trending Topics
ive also been noticing that there has been oil showing up in the charge pipes. Will this cause any harm to my engine, i am currently looking into a rebuild kit to replace those seals, possibly a complete center piece including the turbine wheels and all that other crap. this is really starting to **** me off. It also seems like when there is bosst present the car is hesitant. Its like im pressing on the gas, but its just not moving like it should. Im wandering if my map has anything to do with that issue?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DIRep972 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Sounds like you have a leak before the turbo.</TD></TR></TABLE>
i'll bet it's your wastegate flapper if your running an internal wg. It sounds as though it's not creating a tight seal with the exaust housing thus causing the rattle and all (or most) of the exhaust to bypass the turbo and go strait into the exhaust.
i'll bet it's your wastegate flapper if your running an internal wg. It sounds as though it's not creating a tight seal with the exaust housing thus causing the rattle and all (or most) of the exhaust to bypass the turbo and go strait into the exhaust.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by b16ahybrid »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
i'll bet it's your wastegate flapper if your running an internal wg. It sounds as though it's not creating a tight seal with the exaust housing thus causing the rattle and all (or most) of the exhaust to bypass the turbo and go strait into the exhaust.</TD></TR></TABLE>
so how would you fix this issue with the flap, does it require me to remove the exhaust manifold and mess around with, or could i just disconnect the WG and adjust the arm that controls the flap. On the greddy manifold, should the flap/lever thats connected to the flap be at 12 o'clock or around 3?
i'll bet it's your wastegate flapper if your running an internal wg. It sounds as though it's not creating a tight seal with the exaust housing thus causing the rattle and all (or most) of the exhaust to bypass the turbo and go strait into the exhaust.</TD></TR></TABLE>
so how would you fix this issue with the flap, does it require me to remove the exhaust manifold and mess around with, or could i just disconnect the WG and adjust the arm that controls the flap. On the greddy manifold, should the flap/lever thats connected to the flap be at 12 o'clock or around 3?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by iwhichisme »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">, should the flap/lever thats connected to the flap be at 12 o'clock or around 3?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Not sure what you mean by that, but I believe that you can adjust the tension by turning the actuator arm. Tightening it to make it shorter. Maybe take your dp off and unbolt the exhaust housing where the dp connect to expose the wg flapper, try wiggling it ot see if it's loose at all. If there isn't enough tension the exhaust will push it open.
Not sure what you mean by that, but I believe that you can adjust the tension by turning the actuator arm. Tightening it to make it shorter. Maybe take your dp off and unbolt the exhaust housing where the dp connect to expose the wg flapper, try wiggling it ot see if it's loose at all. If there isn't enough tension the exhaust will push it open.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by b16ahybrid »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Not sure what you mean by that, but I believe that you can adjust the tension by turning the actuator arm. Tightening it to make it shorter. Maybe take your dp off and unbolt the exhaust housing where the dp connect to expose the wg flapper, try wiggling it ot see if it's loose at all. If there isn't enough tension the exhaust will push it open.</TD></TR></TABLE>
well basically i have the WG arm fully extended, or as far as I can get it without it running out of thread. Should i try shortening it to see what it does? Also, Ive been noticing oil in the chargepipe; What kind of effect would this have on my egnine.?
Not sure what you mean by that, but I believe that you can adjust the tension by turning the actuator arm. Tightening it to make it shorter. Maybe take your dp off and unbolt the exhaust housing where the dp connect to expose the wg flapper, try wiggling it ot see if it's loose at all. If there isn't enough tension the exhaust will push it open.</TD></TR></TABLE>
well basically i have the WG arm fully extended, or as far as I can get it without it running out of thread. Should i try shortening it to see what it does? Also, Ive been noticing oil in the chargepipe; What kind of effect would this have on my egnine.?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by iwhichisme »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">well basically i have the WG arm fully extended, or as far as I can get it without it running out of thread. Should i try shortening it to see what it does? Also, Ive been noticing oil in the chargepipe; What kind of effect would this have on my egnine.?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yeah it should be tightend down. All your doing is opening the wg flapper by extending that arm. the shorter the arm the more tension holding it closed, the longer the less tension and the easier it is to open. screw that puppy down tight, then take it for a drive
Yeah it should be tightend down. All your doing is opening the wg flapper by extending that arm. the shorter the arm the more tension holding it closed, the longer the less tension and the easier it is to open. screw that puppy down tight, then take it for a drive
But what about the oil showing up in the chargepipes, is that something i should be majorly concerned about, I know i need to rebuild the turbo, but how long could i go with it like that?, and what overall effect does it have on the motor itself?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by iwhichisme »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">But what about the oil showing up in the chargepipes, is that something i should be majorly concerned about, I know i need to rebuild the turbo, but how long could i go with it like that?, and what overall effect does it have on the motor itself?</TD></TR></TABLE>
how much oil is it?
How far up the charge pipes?
I wouldn't recomend going very long at all. it's not good to burn oil through the intake.
Depending on how much oil were talking about it cold blow your engine.
how much oil is it?
How far up the charge pipes?
I wouldn't recomend going very long at all. it's not good to burn oil through the intake.
Depending on how much oil were talking about it cold blow your engine.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by iwhichisme »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">yeah im not really sure how far up the chargepipes they are going, but i will definitely look into replacing/rebuilding the turbo as soon as possible.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Highly recomended.
Highly recomended.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
wilham320
Forced Induction
5
May 25, 2007 01:53 PM





