personal thoughts and recommendations after an H22A EG swap for anyone that asks "what should i do w
I'll keep this as short as possible.
I wanted the best car for ~7k
I bought a 92 EG VX hatch, and a JDM H22a
The swap went well, but it was our 6th or so, and without some experience it would have been impossible.
The size of the engine was a bigger problem than we thought, but many of the other things that people always complain about just werent issues, like the added weight of the engine affecting handling, or the cable transmission linkage installation. Those went well.
One thing we did not do well was lable all of the connectors on the harness when we took it off of the stock motor, this is not necessary with a B series, but an H needs almost all wires extended.
After many sleepless nights, fistfights, and me lighting myself on fire 3 times in one night (propane heater in a pole barn doing a swap when it was ~5 degrees F most of the time), we got it running.
It took about 2000 miles to get vtec working, i had two coolant temp sensors plugged in backwards..... (label the wiring)
I kept every reciept, here is a list of everything so far.
car $1,850.00 Barber
engine $2,211.00 AEI (Osaka)
plugs $7.56 Pep Boys (NGK)
springs $100.00 Friend (Progressive / Ground Control)
axles $?56.33 AEI (AVID)
mounts $??0.00 AEI (AVID)
Water Pump $65.59 Hoffman Brothers
oil filter $6.99 Honda
Timing Belt $35.56 Hoffman Brothers
Balance Shaft Belt $10.50 Hoffman Brothers
radiator hoses $24.36 Pep Boys
Distributor Cap $13.49 Advanced Auto (94 B18a Integra LS [because of jdm])
Alternator Belt $19.99 Advanced Auto (NAPA 25-060370)
oil pan gasget $18.49 Advanced Auto
clutch $250.00 South Bend Clutch
intake $???.84 AEI (Injen)
plates $48.00 Indiana BMV
intermediate shaft $100.00
prelude shifter $85.00
oil $19.25 autozone (mobil1 1/2 synthetic)
wiring $18.41 autozone (tape connectors, solder, shrink tubing)
trans fluid $5.37 autozone (pennzoil 10w30 organic)
radiator fan $59.98 Advance
antifreeze $7.77 advance (prestone)
O2 sensor $69.99 advance (BOSCH)
PCV valve $2.49 advance
Water Wetter $7.97 Pep Boys
FAT ground strap $1.99 Pep Boys
Battry $101.99 Advance (optima red top)
Shift busings $16.29 Basney Honda (2000 prelude)
muffler $150.00 ProTech
piping / installation $140.00 "unknown" muff shop (no cat)
radiator $300.00 fluidyne
total investment so far is 6,637.20, the ?s are because i am a sponsored car at AEI, go to http://www.aeiperformance.com to see the store, and as of the 22nd, there will be a write-up of my car as a 1/2 year project or so wtih installments about every month.
that is how much it costs, and all the BS it takes to do a swap. everything really adds up once you get into 250 for a clutch, 300 for a radiator, etc.
As of now, i am running POS michelin tires that were on the stock wheels that were on it when i got it (from a barber), and i have not lost a race.
I have taken (only noteworthy listed)
before vtec-
v6 camaro (highway)
2 v6 alleros (highway and drag)
avg integra, civic, celica, etc that i run into.
after vtec-
2004 dodge neon srt4 with mopar stg. 1 upgrades.
The neon was the most impressive win, and the only one that was close. I raced him twice, and i know the kid, he is not a bad driver, but neither of us are mario andretti or anything. The 04 has a quafe, drag radials, and the upgraded injectors and ECU that the 03 had wtih MOPAR. he also had a mopar short shifter. My trans fluid seal at the input shaft is leaking, soaking my bell housing, and clutch, so i slip into 3rd. Also i missed 2nd on both runs, but still was over a car ahead by 3rd. He drove well both times.
his car would get me by 1/2 car off of the line, but when i hit vtec in 1st i jumed 1/2 car ahead of him as if he was standing on his brakes. i rev to ~7700rpm, and stay in vtec the whole run. we went into fourth, but i was ~1-2 cars ahead by then so we just went home.
I would recommend the H22a swap to anyone with money enough to spend about 2500 on parts other than the car and the motor.
I would definitely have someone with electrical knowledge available for re-wiring the harness to fit the larger motor, I soldered, shrink tubed, and shielded every joint that i did ( about 150) and everything is holding togeather great.
DEFINITELY do the injector resistot box, it will be in any H22 swap thread, which i will link to later.
The car is now close to being finished, and is the ultimate sleeper. I have a stock 98 civic CD player, and a gutted interior, 93 integra seats, and no stickers on the car, (except the AEI banner, and an SiR badge on the back(engine was from a lude SiR)).
The things that i still need to do are
fuel pump,
wider wheels, with stickier tires,
quafe lsd.
As of now i am confident that i am in the 13s, because of the srt-4. driver ability aside on both sides (and my tranny) my car just waled on his. They run in the 13s stock, so with mopar, and me eating him alive, i'd say 13s are safe. my local track isnt open yet though, so more will be posted in the near future.
If i left anything out, or if anyone has more suggestinos for me, post back, or e-mail mpbowyer@hotmail.com
thanks for all of the support
MIKE
I wanted the best car for ~7k
I bought a 92 EG VX hatch, and a JDM H22a
The swap went well, but it was our 6th or so, and without some experience it would have been impossible.
The size of the engine was a bigger problem than we thought, but many of the other things that people always complain about just werent issues, like the added weight of the engine affecting handling, or the cable transmission linkage installation. Those went well.
One thing we did not do well was lable all of the connectors on the harness when we took it off of the stock motor, this is not necessary with a B series, but an H needs almost all wires extended.
After many sleepless nights, fistfights, and me lighting myself on fire 3 times in one night (propane heater in a pole barn doing a swap when it was ~5 degrees F most of the time), we got it running.
It took about 2000 miles to get vtec working, i had two coolant temp sensors plugged in backwards..... (label the wiring)
I kept every reciept, here is a list of everything so far.
car $1,850.00 Barber
engine $2,211.00 AEI (Osaka)
plugs $7.56 Pep Boys (NGK)
springs $100.00 Friend (Progressive / Ground Control)
axles $?56.33 AEI (AVID)
mounts $??0.00 AEI (AVID)
Water Pump $65.59 Hoffman Brothers
oil filter $6.99 Honda
Timing Belt $35.56 Hoffman Brothers
Balance Shaft Belt $10.50 Hoffman Brothers
radiator hoses $24.36 Pep Boys
Distributor Cap $13.49 Advanced Auto (94 B18a Integra LS [because of jdm])
Alternator Belt $19.99 Advanced Auto (NAPA 25-060370)
oil pan gasget $18.49 Advanced Auto
clutch $250.00 South Bend Clutch
intake $???.84 AEI (Injen)
plates $48.00 Indiana BMV
intermediate shaft $100.00
prelude shifter $85.00
oil $19.25 autozone (mobil1 1/2 synthetic)
wiring $18.41 autozone (tape connectors, solder, shrink tubing)
trans fluid $5.37 autozone (pennzoil 10w30 organic)
radiator fan $59.98 Advance
antifreeze $7.77 advance (prestone)
O2 sensor $69.99 advance (BOSCH)
PCV valve $2.49 advance
Water Wetter $7.97 Pep Boys
FAT ground strap $1.99 Pep Boys
Battry $101.99 Advance (optima red top)
Shift busings $16.29 Basney Honda (2000 prelude)
muffler $150.00 ProTech
piping / installation $140.00 "unknown" muff shop (no cat)
radiator $300.00 fluidyne
total investment so far is 6,637.20, the ?s are because i am a sponsored car at AEI, go to http://www.aeiperformance.com to see the store, and as of the 22nd, there will be a write-up of my car as a 1/2 year project or so wtih installments about every month.
that is how much it costs, and all the BS it takes to do a swap. everything really adds up once you get into 250 for a clutch, 300 for a radiator, etc.
As of now, i am running POS michelin tires that were on the stock wheels that were on it when i got it (from a barber), and i have not lost a race.
I have taken (only noteworthy listed)
before vtec-
v6 camaro (highway)
2 v6 alleros (highway and drag)
avg integra, civic, celica, etc that i run into.
after vtec-
2004 dodge neon srt4 with mopar stg. 1 upgrades.
The neon was the most impressive win, and the only one that was close. I raced him twice, and i know the kid, he is not a bad driver, but neither of us are mario andretti or anything. The 04 has a quafe, drag radials, and the upgraded injectors and ECU that the 03 had wtih MOPAR. he also had a mopar short shifter. My trans fluid seal at the input shaft is leaking, soaking my bell housing, and clutch, so i slip into 3rd. Also i missed 2nd on both runs, but still was over a car ahead by 3rd. He drove well both times.
his car would get me by 1/2 car off of the line, but when i hit vtec in 1st i jumed 1/2 car ahead of him as if he was standing on his brakes. i rev to ~7700rpm, and stay in vtec the whole run. we went into fourth, but i was ~1-2 cars ahead by then so we just went home.
I would recommend the H22a swap to anyone with money enough to spend about 2500 on parts other than the car and the motor.
I would definitely have someone with electrical knowledge available for re-wiring the harness to fit the larger motor, I soldered, shrink tubed, and shielded every joint that i did ( about 150) and everything is holding togeather great.
DEFINITELY do the injector resistot box, it will be in any H22 swap thread, which i will link to later.
The car is now close to being finished, and is the ultimate sleeper. I have a stock 98 civic CD player, and a gutted interior, 93 integra seats, and no stickers on the car, (except the AEI banner, and an SiR badge on the back(engine was from a lude SiR)).
The things that i still need to do are
fuel pump,
wider wheels, with stickier tires,
quafe lsd.
As of now i am confident that i am in the 13s, because of the srt-4. driver ability aside on both sides (and my tranny) my car just waled on his. They run in the 13s stock, so with mopar, and me eating him alive, i'd say 13s are safe. my local track isnt open yet though, so more will be posted in the near future.
If i left anything out, or if anyone has more suggestinos for me, post back, or e-mail mpbowyer@hotmail.com
thanks for all of the support
MIKE
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