I wrote a while back that my dip stick tube came loose and I lost oil from this point. I ended up replacing the tube with a new factory one, hammered it in and it was fine up until now, I think it has been about 5 or 6 months. Damn thing came loose again on my drive to New York from Toronto. Since the new tube does not work. What is everyone else doing. I remember reading about the JB weld.

For people who have used this method, has this worked and for how long? Where can I buy JB weld in long island, Pep Boys?

Thanks,

AW

 

Hondabond.

Mine has never come loose since.

 

hondabond or jbweld.

 

from the FAQ post above and from searching 'dipstck'

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=203783
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=232850

 

i would use JB weld. it dries up hard as hell and resists oil and heat pretty damn good....

 

JB is what I used.. no problems here for 1 year so far/

 

I bought a new toob (my original was beat to hell from me trying to jam it back in), we took off the exhaust manifold. and used Hondabond to secure the replacement to the block. ~6 mts and no problems so far...

 

i treated mine nicely and i dont know how in the hell someone would **** that up

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Type R 98-870 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i treated mine nicely and i dont know how in the hell someone would **** that up</TD></TR></TABLE>
They come like that.

 

they work themselves loose eventually from the four cylinder vibrations... it is a very common problem, but easily fixed.

 

I have not had this problem in three GSR blocks that I have owned. I own one ITR block and the dipstick is loose
I used Hondabond and it held for a couple of months, but it's loose again. JB Weld going on this time.

 

i had this problem in my 01 gsr. had the dealer do it under warranty, they just put a new one in. they said they have never seen anything like that before, but I searched on here and a lot of people had this problem, so they are full of **** i guess. so far so good after the replacement.

 

Anselm, you gotta quit beating on the JDM ITR motor

 

Wayne, I guess it was the driving at a constant 65+mph on the way to NY that jarred it loose again. I think I will JB weld it this time. Hopefully it does not come loose.

For those that went the JB weld route. Did you put any in the hole? I am afraid of it falling into the oil pan. I was thinking about putting some just on the lip of the dip stick where it mates to the block.

Thanks guys

AW

 

This loose dipstick thing happened to a guy I know in NY state. Acura's solution was to replace his motor (car was under warranty). Brand new ITR motor. Not so bad.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by pcorad &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">This loose dipstick thing happened to a guy I know in NY state. Acura's solution was to replace his motor (car was under warranty). Brand new ITR motor. Not so bad. </TD></TR></TABLE>

unbelievable...

:hammer

That's like a $12 part...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by pcorad &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">This loose dipstick thing happened to a guy I know in NY state. Acura's solution was to replace his motor (car was under warranty). Brand new ITR motor. Not so bad. </TD></TR></TABLE>
I don't believe that.

 

i did this with JB Quick and it lasted for ~10 months and i just noticed it was coming loose while i was at Talladega. i don't know if i didn't put enough on or what but I just redid it with JB Weld on Monday so hopefully it won't come loose no more

 

I have the same issue as pyro.

Mine was set for 1.5 years, through about 10 track events. now i'm starting to see a little oil up there again.

 

go to a exhaust shop and have them weld that ****** in there, problem solved... forever

 

Remove the dipstick tube. Clean around it and clean around block. Put hondabond on it. Fixed. Don't hammer it. Don't do anything else to it. Just force it down as far as it'll go and it'll bottom out. Leave the hondabond to dry before cranking.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B2FiNiTY &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I don't believe that.</TD></TR></TABLE>

'tis true. He's one of the owners of Track Masters. Not prone to lying.

 

i followed will's t00b advice and rocked mine with hondabond, been fine for about 10 months now...

 

jb weld holds all.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by [HrZn &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">4life]jb weld holds all. </TD></TR></TABLE>

It's messy and it holds next to permanent. I would cross that out. Hondabond is a liquid gasket. Meaning you can remove it the dipstick tube whenever you like and it's far more easier removing it with hondabond in place.

My vote still goes to hondabond.