OBD2 - Any Way to Get Rid of Second o2 and Run a Test Pipe?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 1hotcivicSi »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">any way to take off the cat without the engine light going off.......on my 00 civic si</TD></TR></TABLE>
Honestly, not really.
Test pipes usually make the car sound like ****, and they also usually cause an oil consumption problem from what I've seen.
Why do you want to remove the cat? Do you really think it will help you out enough?
Your EM1 ECU is HIGHLY sensitive in regard to the 02 readings and catalyst efficiency readings, so bascially even a high flow cat will probably throw an o2 and/or cat efficiency low code(s).
Honestly, not really.
Test pipes usually make the car sound like ****, and they also usually cause an oil consumption problem from what I've seen.
Why do you want to remove the cat? Do you really think it will help you out enough?
Your EM1 ECU is HIGHLY sensitive in regard to the 02 readings and catalyst efficiency readings, so bascially even a high flow cat will probably throw an o2 and/or cat efficiency low code(s).
If you're doing a forced induction setup removing the cat and replacing it with a test pipe is very beneficial, especially with a turbo setup. A free flowing exhaust will increase spool up and even increase the life of the turbo by decreasing the backpressure on the turbine wheel. For an N/A vehicle test pipe will have small gains, but a high flow cat is probably a better option.
Converting to OBDI is the way. They do make o2 simulators for OBDII, but I will personally tell you they suck.
Converting to OBDI is the way. They do make o2 simulators for OBDII, but I will personally tell you they suck.
I ran a Zip tech o2 simulator in my 99 Si for over 8 months...never had a CEL and the car ran like a champ. It's <50$ and you can buy it at Kteller.com and a few other places. Uses a RISC processor instead of a resistor...so you should never get a CEL.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B18C5-EH2 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Test pipes usually make the car sound like ****, and they also usually cause an oil consumption problem from what I've seen.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
I've experienced this with a high flow cat, why would this happen?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RyanCivic2000 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If you're doing a forced induction setup removing the cat and replacing it with a test pipe is very beneficial, especially with a turbo setup. A free flowing exhaust will increase spool up and even increase the life of the turbo by decreasing the backpressure on the turbine wheel..</TD></TR></TABLE>
the only reason to remove cat is if you're boosting...
Test pipes usually make the car sound like ****, and they also usually cause an oil consumption problem from what I've seen.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
I've experienced this with a high flow cat, why would this happen?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RyanCivic2000 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If you're doing a forced induction setup removing the cat and replacing it with a test pipe is very beneficial, especially with a turbo setup. A free flowing exhaust will increase spool up and even increase the life of the turbo by decreasing the backpressure on the turbine wheel..</TD></TR></TABLE>
the only reason to remove cat is if you're boosting...
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well you want to do it for free... dont buy a simulator...
unscrew the 2nd o2 and zip tie it up to the frame or something so it doesnt drag on the ground...
no check engine light because the 02 isnt going to see any raw exhaust... its only going to read air, which to the ecu is just fine
and for the people that are going to tell me that the 2nd o2 sensor adjusts engine parameters it doesnt...it only checks cross counts and makes sure the cat is working...so if its not in the exhaust stream it would see a problem..
some poeple say its hack, but guess what it gets the job done.
unscrew the 2nd o2 and zip tie it up to the frame or something so it doesnt drag on the ground...
no check engine light because the 02 isnt going to see any raw exhaust... its only going to read air, which to the ecu is just fine
and for the people that are going to tell me that the 2nd o2 sensor adjusts engine parameters it doesnt...it only checks cross counts and makes sure the cat is working...so if its not in the exhaust stream it would see a problem..
some poeple say its hack, but guess what it gets the job done.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by pornstarSR »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">well you want to do it for free... dont buy a simulator...
unscrew the 2nd o2 and zip tie it up to the frame or something so it doesnt drag on the ground...
no check engine light because the 02 isnt going to see any raw exhaust... its only going to read air, which to the ecu is just fine
and for the people that are going to tell me that the 2nd o2 sensor adjusts engine parameters it doesnt...it only checks cross counts and makes sure the cat is working...so if its not in the exhaust stream it would see a problem..
some poeple say its hack, but guess what it gets the job done.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
easy solution for a race day. i'd get a zip tech if you're planning to keep the test pipe for an extended period of time.
unscrew the 2nd o2 and zip tie it up to the frame or something so it doesnt drag on the ground...
no check engine light because the 02 isnt going to see any raw exhaust... its only going to read air, which to the ecu is just fine
and for the people that are going to tell me that the 2nd o2 sensor adjusts engine parameters it doesnt...it only checks cross counts and makes sure the cat is working...so if its not in the exhaust stream it would see a problem..
some poeple say its hack, but guess what it gets the job done.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
easy solution for a race day. i'd get a zip tech if you're planning to keep the test pipe for an extended period of time.
On my 97 GSR I left both O2's in the pipe and didn't have any problems. When I initially left it out I was throwing CEL's after about 10 minutes of driving. Kind of weird considering people have had no CEL's with that.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 99blusi »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I ran a Zip tech o2 simulator in my 99 Si for over 8 months...never had a CEL and the car ran like a champ. It's <50$ and you can buy it at Kteller.com and a few other places. Uses a RISC processor instead of a resistor...so you should never get a CEL. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Thats what i was going to say. Get a o2 simulator. Other options are obd1 ecu conversion.
My friend has a test pipe on his obd2 turbo civic - he keeps the 2nd o2 sensor in the stock location and it has never given him a CEL. But ive also heard some people having alot of problems doing this. Im not sure why some work and some dont.
liam
Thats what i was going to say. Get a o2 simulator. Other options are obd1 ecu conversion.
My friend has a test pipe on his obd2 turbo civic - he keeps the 2nd o2 sensor in the stock location and it has never given him a CEL. But ive also heard some people having alot of problems doing this. Im not sure why some work and some dont.
liam
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by pornstarSR »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">well you want to do it for free... dont buy a simulator...
unscrew the 2nd o2 and zip tie it up to the frame or something so it doesnt drag on the ground...
no check engine light because the 02 isnt going to see any raw exhaust... its only going to read air, which to the ecu is just fine
and for the people that are going to tell me that the 2nd o2 sensor adjusts engine parameters it doesnt...it only checks cross counts and makes sure the cat is working...so if its not in the exhaust stream it would see a problem..
some poeple say its hack, but guess what it gets the job done.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
i tried this along time ago when my car was turbo'd it didn't work it threw a code within 30 seconds. i've heard that it worked but it didn't for me.
unscrew the 2nd o2 and zip tie it up to the frame or something so it doesnt drag on the ground...
no check engine light because the 02 isnt going to see any raw exhaust... its only going to read air, which to the ecu is just fine
and for the people that are going to tell me that the 2nd o2 sensor adjusts engine parameters it doesnt...it only checks cross counts and makes sure the cat is working...so if its not in the exhaust stream it would see a problem..
some poeple say its hack, but guess what it gets the job done.
</TD></TR></TABLE>i tried this along time ago when my car was turbo'd it didn't work it threw a code within 30 seconds. i've heard that it worked but it didn't for me.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by pornstarSR »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
no check engine light because the 02 isnt going to see any raw exhaust... its only going to read air, which to the ecu is just fine
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Sorry but I must disagree.
The o2 sensor has to get hot enough from the exhaust to even function. You'd get a CEL for o2 sensor heater immediately.
Also it is used to having gasses pass by it - if it's just sitting there it would probably also throw a catalyst efficiency low code.
I wish people would not post crap like that, because some people will try that and waste an afternoon on it.
no check engine light because the 02 isnt going to see any raw exhaust... its only going to read air, which to the ecu is just fine
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Sorry but I must disagree.
The o2 sensor has to get hot enough from the exhaust to even function. You'd get a CEL for o2 sensor heater immediately.
Also it is used to having gasses pass by it - if it's just sitting there it would probably also throw a catalyst efficiency low code.
I wish people would not post crap like that, because some people will try that and waste an afternoon on it.
I just installed the zip tech/EGC 02 simulator, wiredspeed (2k teg) is selling them to honda-tech members for 45 shipped. You basicly tap into tps, rpm, power, ground and then cut the secondary o2 input wire. Easy install, you leave the second o2 sensor in the car, so that the heater is still operational, but it just doesn't give any feedback to the ecu. Its worked perfect for me over the past month and I would highly recommend it. The car is louder now, but that's mainly because i gutted my high flow cat, versus running a pipe through it. But really, the car's sound didn't change that much and it doesn't sound like angry bees. yet my car is a boosted h22, so it has a pretty deep tone to it anyways.
honestly i wouldn't even worry about that cel. I ran for about half a year with my test pipe and the secondary o2 sensor still in the bung. My cel would come on after about 20 minutes of driving after resetting the ecu. Honestly I never noticed any performance differences when I had the cel on and when it was off. I resset it everyday just incase, but honestly i don't think that cel was doing ****. So all its really doing is giving you that light...the only negative thing I can see is that maybe you couldn't tell if you were throwing another code. Oh well i don't have to worry about that anymore...i'm obd1 now
.
.
My Defcon Racing O2 sim has 5 wires, plugs into the stock O2 harness and has an extra one that needs power. Plug and play whenever I want. And it hasn't given me any problems whatsoever in the 2 years I've had it on.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SOHC_MShue »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">....Honestly I never noticed any performance differences when I had the cel on and when it was off..... </TD></TR></TABLE>
In my case I did notice a little lag in throttle response when my CEL was on due to me leaving the O2 out of the bunge. If I was on the freeway in 5th gear around 4500 RPM and I floored it until boost kicked in there would be a slight delay before you felt the power...felt like major boost lag. When the car was operating normally power kicked instantaneously.
But yeah..I agree with PornstarSR about the O2 being up to temperature before if can even operate. I know I wasted an afternoon on experimenting.
In my case I did notice a little lag in throttle response when my CEL was on due to me leaving the O2 out of the bunge. If I was on the freeway in 5th gear around 4500 RPM and I floored it until boost kicked in there would be a slight delay before you felt the power...felt like major boost lag. When the car was operating normally power kicked instantaneously.
But yeah..I agree with PornstarSR about the O2 being up to temperature before if can even operate. I know I wasted an afternoon on experimenting.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B18C5-EH2 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Sorry but I must disagree.
The o2 sensor has to get hot enough from the exhaust to even function. You'd get a CEL for o2 sensor heater immediately.
Also it is used to having gasses pass by it - if it's just sitting there it would probably also throw a catalyst efficiency low code.
I wish people would not post crap like that, because some people will try that and waste an afternoon on it.</TD></TR></TABLE>
ok no and no and no.
the 2nd 02 does not have to get hot in the exhaust. it has a heater. If no gas i goin by it, why would it say catalyst efficiency low. because the cat is working so well that there are nothing for the sensor to see...comeon that one didnt make sense.
for the people that have tried this...and got cels...thats odd..
2nd 02 out of pipe, still plugged in, not hanging near an exhaust leak. out of 10 cars that i have built test pipes for, from 97 typeR, to 99 typeR, and civics from 96-2000. all have NEVER coded, and this all with stock ecu's, no hondata
and this "trick" was learned from a honda mechanic, someone that worked at honda for 12 years, and went to the seminars on the obd2 systems in hondas.
Sorry but I must disagree.
The o2 sensor has to get hot enough from the exhaust to even function. You'd get a CEL for o2 sensor heater immediately.
Also it is used to having gasses pass by it - if it's just sitting there it would probably also throw a catalyst efficiency low code.
I wish people would not post crap like that, because some people will try that and waste an afternoon on it.</TD></TR></TABLE>
ok no and no and no.
the 2nd 02 does not have to get hot in the exhaust. it has a heater. If no gas i goin by it, why would it say catalyst efficiency low. because the cat is working so well that there are nothing for the sensor to see...comeon that one didnt make sense.
for the people that have tried this...and got cels...thats odd..
2nd 02 out of pipe, still plugged in, not hanging near an exhaust leak. out of 10 cars that i have built test pipes for, from 97 typeR, to 99 typeR, and civics from 96-2000. all have NEVER coded, and this all with stock ecu's, no hondata
and this "trick" was learned from a honda mechanic, someone that worked at honda for 12 years, and went to the seminars on the obd2 systems in hondas.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B18C5-EH2 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Test pipes usually make the car sound like ****, and they also usually cause an oil consumption problem from what I've seen.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I'm still confused on the oil consumption part?
Or is it just a pre-existing problem that gets worse with a free flowing exhaust?
I'm still confused on the oil consumption part?
Or is it just a pre-existing problem that gets worse with a free flowing exhaust?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B18C5-EH2 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Sorry but I must disagree.
The o2 sensor has to get hot enough from the exhaust to even function. You'd get a CEL for o2 sensor heater immediately.
Also it is used to having gasses pass by it - if it's just sitting there it would probably also throw a catalyst efficiency low code.
I wish people would not post crap like that, because some people will try that and waste an afternoon on it.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I must disagree. User: sean is running his secondary o2 zip tied in his engine bay and he has no trouble. He has a 97 dx with a 2000 gsr motor and as far as I know is still running OBD2.
Sorry but I must disagree.
The o2 sensor has to get hot enough from the exhaust to even function. You'd get a CEL for o2 sensor heater immediately.
Also it is used to having gasses pass by it - if it's just sitting there it would probably also throw a catalyst efficiency low code.
I wish people would not post crap like that, because some people will try that and waste an afternoon on it.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I must disagree. User: sean is running his secondary o2 zip tied in his engine bay and he has no trouble. He has a 97 dx with a 2000 gsr motor and as far as I know is still running OBD2.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Happyman »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I must disagree. User: sean is running his secondary o2 zip tied in his engine bay and he has no trouble. He has a 97 dx with a 2000 gsr motor and as far as I know is still running OBD2.</TD></TR></TABLE>
hmmm
I must disagree. User: sean is running his secondary o2 zip tied in his engine bay and he has no trouble. He has a 97 dx with a 2000 gsr motor and as far as I know is still running OBD2.</TD></TR></TABLE>
hmmm
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B18C5-EH2 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Okay, well good for you guys with the secondary o2 trick.
I only have one, so I honestly don't care.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
so you were arguing for fun....ok its over
I only have one, so I honestly don't care.
</TD></TR></TABLE>so you were arguing for fun....ok its over
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