I have a built up H22A (0 miles) that I just finished building a few weeks ago and installed. Till today I hadn't tried starting it because I've been waiting for my AEM EMS and RC 370 Injectors to get here, but I finally got impatient with the mixups and stuff that's been happening that I wanted to start the car and have it warm up for the first time. So I threw in the old H23A1 ECU, and Euro-R injectors, primed the engine, and tried to start.. no go, just keeps cranking and cranking. I checked for fuel.. it's got it, I checked for spark, it's got it. I decide to double check the distributor timing (pull the valve cover, set to TDC and take off the dist. cap and make sure it was on #1, it was). Put everything back toghether and BAM starts right up but surges.. there's a big vaccum leak. I found it and stopped the leak, started again, bam right from the start.. then I noticed it had a lot of valvetrain nose, and realized I didn't do it's first valve adjustment. So I did, and when I tried to start up the car... I'm back at square one, crank crank crank no start. Went back and did another very maticulous valve adjustment to make sure nothing was too tight, put it all back together and still nothing.

So I'm at a complete loss. It didn't start at all... then it did like 4-5 times, now it won't start again. Someone please help!

 

BTW I just noticed the other thread a bit down about someone not being able to start thier car, so let me clerify what I've checked so you guys don't have to go repeating yourselves.
The distributor is on correctly
I'm getting spark
I'm getting fuel
I can't set the timing till the engine is running, but the dist is set where it used to be on my H23 (like you can see where the bolts used to be tightened up on the dist)
My battery is fine (optima), I can sit there and crank the biatch forever and ever.. never slows down, but it never even tries to start either, no catching at all or anything, just crank crank crank.
All of the grounds are connected, but I can try adding another ground to it for ***** and giggles.
The cams are in right.
Everything is set at TDC and lined up correctly


Help...

 

If it was running before the valve adjustment then maybe you should go recheck everything you touched. And i doubt itll be an earthing issue if it fired previously and its a built engine nodoubt youve already secured them all

 

the h23 ecu was made to run the h23 only, chances are this is your only problem unless you created more somehow by trying to run engine management for the wrong engine. its kinda like trying to drive an RC car with a tv remote

 

vtec wont work with that ecu

But the point is he had it running before i was only after he made valveadjustments etc that it stopped responding!

 

Oh it should runwith the h23 ecu. It'll run like crap but it'll run.

Check all your vaccum lines.

 

yeah I know it'll run with the P14 ecu.. that's why I tried it. I don't think it was the valve adjustment that made it not run... I'm not sure what it is but I guess it was something to do with removing everything to do the adjustment or something. I know for sure it's not the valve adjustment cause I went back and did it again super maticulously. And the first time I did it, when I started the car, it ran then died immediately like something cut out... then stopped starting.. crank crank crank crank.

 

It sounds like you could have fouled out your plugs by flooded them with gas by starting the car over and over again. Install new plugs, also check your grounds. You may also want to check your torque settings in your valvetrain after you performed your valve-adjustment. I have seen people forgetting to torque everything and the car will not start since the valves become WAY too loose. Also, make sure you replaced the altenator plug back in.

Also, why are you running 370cc injectors when stocks 4th gens are 345cc's? You know you are going to peak those injectors out around 330-350whp on stock fuel pressure using a duty cycle of 80% right?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PrecisionH23a &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Also, why are you running 370cc injectors when stocks 4th gens are 345cc's? You know you are going to peak those injectors out around 330-350whp on stock fuel pressure using a duty cycle of 80% right?</TD></TR></TABLE>

not to thread jack but could you explain this please
Do you mean they are going to be inadequate for his applicaiton??

 

ive seen that before when doing valve adjustements too... forgot to tighten them back down. but that would be so noticeble, probably not your problem.

i'd replcace the plugs as well. try it again.

 

Well I tried adding a ground and nothing
I even changed the injectors, nothing
The valve adjustment was done perfect, I've gone over it twice, everything tightened down.
The alternator is all plugged in.
As for the 370 Injectors, my build is NA so I don't need as much fuel as an FI setup would need. I was recommeded 370's by someone who is running basically the exact same setup, same CR same cams etc, and had plenty of fuel. But regardless I may end up going with larger injectors now, if I can ever get the damn car to start.

I will go out and buy new plugs, see if it does anything. I'm open to try anything at this point.. I'm so aggrivated with it.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Prelude Styl &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">yeah I know it'll run with the P14 ecu.. that's why I tried it. I don't think it was the valve adjustment that made it not run... I'm not sure what it is but I guess it was something to do with removing everything to do the adjustment or something. I know for sure it's not the valve adjustment cause I went back and did it again super maticulously. And the first time I did it, when I started the car, it ran then died immediately like something cut out... then stopped starting.. crank crank crank crank.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Okay man. This sound like the belt may be a little loose which might have caused it to skip a tooth or two on the timing belt. I know you said you check the timing to see if everything is at tdc. But go back and redo your timing again. Because this is what happen to my friends b18b motor. It fired right up and die a split second after that. So check it out again and let us know.

 

I got it running

Even though I knew I was getting fuel before my friend said just take check to make sure it's still pumping, cause I wasn't hearing the pump prime anymore. So I checked and my 'back up' fuse was blown, so I replaced it, and boom, pump primed, and engine started. I guess something must have short to ground somewhere in the fuel system or something right after I started the engine after my valve adjustment and popped the fuse.

Thanks for the help though guys.

 

Nice one!, so we'll be seing a graph of this thing tuned soon right?

 

Eh, not really. When I get my EMS, I'm going to go and get a baseline tune just so that it runs well, but not spend a lot of dyno time on it to pull a lot of power from it because when I get my Crower St. 3 cams in a few months I'll have to retune again, so I'm saving the hardcore tuning for then. I can still post up my graph now though... should be close to 200, we'll see.