i finished my M2B4 swap last night and im using a JUN UL flywheel w/ a hyper stage 2 clutch. i also put on a new master and slave cylinder, but whats got me confused is my clutch pedal and the way it feels. when i push it in the first half of the way there is no pressure but it will return if i let up. after the half-way point it gets fairly firm and goes into gear but not as smoothly as it used to. i bled the system but i cant figure out why its doing this, is there something i overlooked and what is the EXACT process for bleeding the clutch...

my next question is sometimes when the car is rolling (not under power) there is "creeking/popping" noise that i can hear on the driver side. any idea what it could be? i did mess up my ball joints when separating them but i dont know if thats it.

someone please help so i can get this working right, thanks!

 

When you bled the clutch line, did you submerge the hose you attached to the bleeder screw under clutch fluid?

 

there may still be some air in the lines. I know when i bled mine it too a few bleeding to get all the air out. As far as the popping, that could be a ball joint or a tie rod end. When they go bad, they tend to pop when you slow down or shift the weight of the car.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jdmlude_dude &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">there may still be some air in the lines. I know when i bled mine it too a few bleeding to get all the air out. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Agree

 

how much free play do you have in the pedal with an aftermarket clutch.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by NoLipRacen &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">how much free play do you have in the pedal with an aftermarket clutch.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I have almost no play with my ACT heavy duty/6puck.

 

does sound like air in the lines...btw nolipracen, ZI still wanna buy your tranny PM me and I'll come pick it up

 

My money also goes towards air in your clutch lines. Make sure everything in the hydraulic system is nice and tight so air is not getting sucked in while you're bleeding...i.e. the hose that connects the reservoir to the master cylinder.

As for your popping noises, could be your CV joint. Easy to mess that up trying to get the axle back into the transmission. When you separated your ball joints, did you tear any of the boots?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tomservo &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">As for your popping noises, could be your CV joint. Easy to mess that up trying to get the axle back into the transmission. When you separated your ball joints, did you tear any of the boots? </TD></TR></TABLE>

well a little grease did come out of the CV boot when we pulled the axle but i dont "think" that i damaged the joint itself. we were also very careful not to pull on the axle while we were removing it. as for the ball joints. the one on the lca leaked a little grease when we use the pickle fork, and the one that attaches to the steering rod got totally ripped open. any advice?

 

Steering rod as in Tie rod end? If so, that is eeeeeeasy to replace. As for the other ball joints, it's a matter of taking off whatever piece they're machined into, having them machined out, and then having new ones machined back in. It's a pain in the ***, but a lot cheaper than just replacing say the whole control arm.

PS Pickle forks blow...Ball joint separaters are a lot easier on the boots.

 

i had very very little free pedal with my, i got under the dash and adjusted the slack in the pedal there. as for bleeding try borrowing a power bleeder from someone, or if you plan on bleed brakes and clutch lines a lot go buy one, works a lot better