Stock block Turbo ITR - Dyno plot (Tuned by Payn)
details can be found here (my personal web page) I'm a novice at web design, so just play around with the site, you will find the info
http://studentweb.walshcollege...0web/
http://studentweb.walshcollege...0web/
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by itr 00 0108 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Your torque is pretty damn low...I'm kinda surprised...</TD></TR></TABLE>
You have to consider the fact that it's a MustangDyno. They usually read a good bit lower than Dynojets do.
You have to consider the fact that it's a MustangDyno. They usually read a good bit lower than Dynojets do.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Dr Pooface »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">nice #'s. How long have you run boost?
I'd guess your running 10psi.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I guess 10-15 psi stock bottom end...also what octane gas are u running?
I'd guess your running 10psi.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I guess 10-15 psi stock bottom end...also what octane gas are u running?
.....looks like pete's famous 300whp stock itr + turbo setup. 
I tried to surf around your site, but found it somewhat slow for me (I'm on dialup).
Can you list a comprehensive list of mods + boost and tuning specifics?
again. I'm sure it pulls like a ****!

I tried to surf around your site, but found it somewhat slow for me (I'm on dialup).
Can you list a comprehensive list of mods + boost and tuning specifics?
again. I'm sure it pulls like a ****!
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Black R »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">.....looks like pete's famous 300whp stock itr + turbo setup. 
I tried to surf around your site, but found it somewhat slow for me (I'm on dialup).
Can you list a comprehensive list of mods + boost and tuning specifics?
again. I'm sure it pulls like a ****!
</TD></TR></TABLE>
RevHard turbo kit consisting of:
Turbonetics T3/TO4E-60 trim hybrid turbocharger (capable of flowing enough air to support 500 whp)
Spearco air to air front mount intercooler
Mandrel bent steel charge piping
Greddy Type-s blow off valve
Other mods:
Hondata Standalone engine management system (Payn Tech Custom Program)
Holley 255lph forced induction fuel pump
MSD distributor cap
MSD electronic coil (external)
MSD capacitive discharge ignition box
AEM fuel rail
AEM fuel pressure regulator
RC 440cc fuel injectors
MOROSO 5 quart capacity sheet metal oil pan
Autometer boost/vacuum gauge
Autometer exhaust gas temperature gauge
Autometer oil temperature gauge
Autometer air/fuel (02) monitor gauge
Autometer fuel pressure gauge
FAL (Flexalite) dual high flow, low profile fans
Z10 engineering Radius arm bar kit
Kosei K1 Racing 15" wheels (front only for strip use)
BF Goodrich Drag Radials (front only for strip use)
Home made tig welded 3" T304 stainless steel mandrel bent downpipe
Home made tig welded 3" T304 stainless steel test pipe
Thermal Research and Development 3" stainless steel Exhaust system
Home made 3" mandrel bent aluminum cold-air intake with K&N filter
Air conditioning removed
Power steering removed
Home made tig welded aluminum oil catch-can (red anodized)
Clutch Masters Stage 3 Carbon/Kevlar clutch (stock flywheel)
19lb. radiator cap (Mugen knockoff)

I tried to surf around your site, but found it somewhat slow for me (I'm on dialup).
Can you list a comprehensive list of mods + boost and tuning specifics?
again. I'm sure it pulls like a ****!
</TD></TR></TABLE>RevHard turbo kit consisting of:
Turbonetics T3/TO4E-60 trim hybrid turbocharger (capable of flowing enough air to support 500 whp)
Spearco air to air front mount intercooler
Mandrel bent steel charge piping
Greddy Type-s blow off valve
Other mods:
Hondata Standalone engine management system (Payn Tech Custom Program)
Holley 255lph forced induction fuel pump
MSD distributor cap
MSD electronic coil (external)
MSD capacitive discharge ignition box
AEM fuel rail
AEM fuel pressure regulator
RC 440cc fuel injectors
MOROSO 5 quart capacity sheet metal oil pan
Autometer boost/vacuum gauge
Autometer exhaust gas temperature gauge
Autometer oil temperature gauge
Autometer air/fuel (02) monitor gauge
Autometer fuel pressure gauge
FAL (Flexalite) dual high flow, low profile fans
Z10 engineering Radius arm bar kit
Kosei K1 Racing 15" wheels (front only for strip use)
BF Goodrich Drag Radials (front only for strip use)
Home made tig welded 3" T304 stainless steel mandrel bent downpipe
Home made tig welded 3" T304 stainless steel test pipe
Thermal Research and Development 3" stainless steel Exhaust system
Home made 3" mandrel bent aluminum cold-air intake with K&N filter
Air conditioning removed
Power steering removed
Home made tig welded aluminum oil catch-can (red anodized)
Clutch Masters Stage 3 Carbon/Kevlar clutch (stock flywheel)
19lb. radiator cap (Mugen knockoff)
It's been on boost for almost 3 years, just got Hondata in December 03 and tuned this February. According to my tuner's pressure sensor boost creeped to 11.5 Psig at peak (more than I expected), the creep is probably due to my wastegate and downpipe design...
the numbers are nice , i did the same thing on 8psi with a pretty restrictive exhaust and a really light tune. my tuner was scared to give it any timing .
I ran 12.7s at 114 before tuning, so you can guess at the power that I was putting down. I have not run the car yet now that it is actually tuned, but I can honestly say it pulls harder than it has ever pulled, I am really looking forward to running it. My goal for this season is to break 12.7 on street tires, I don't see a problem with the power I'm making now. I'm hoping for 12.5, or better.
Slicks and axles will have to wait (I have a baby on the way, so I have other priorities
)
Slicks and axles will have to wait (I have a baby on the way, so I have other priorities
)
im considering doing a turbo on my type r, is there anything i should know or have to worry about should i lower pistons, and get new rods?
Don't do what I did, invest in standalone right away, I suffered through almost 3 years of bullshit with VAFC and FMU...do it right, if you can afford it. You don't need to open the engine if you are running conservative boost levels. Just be careful, it can be done, you just can't be an idiot about it. Research...
for the most part worry about your wallet getting owned especially if you have other bills to worry about.
check condition of your motor. no need to rebuilt unless theres is a need for rebuild. running good fuel managment, making no mistakes/failures and keeping conservative hp level - 300 is not concervative imo if you want it to last for a while and have some driving habbits.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TypeR15 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">im considering doing a turbo on my type r, is there anything i should know or have to worry about should i lower pistons, and get new rods?</TD></TR></TABLE>
check condition of your motor. no need to rebuilt unless theres is a need for rebuild. running good fuel managment, making no mistakes/failures and keeping conservative hp level - 300 is not concervative imo if you want it to last for a while and have some driving habbits.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TypeR15 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">im considering doing a turbo on my type r, is there anything i should know or have to worry about should i lower pistons, and get new rods?</TD></TR></TABLE>
How long do you think the stock internals and block will last...you probally dont run that much horse everyday but do you think it is reliable?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ITR.#1446 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">How long do you think the stock internals and block will last...you probally dont run that much horse everyday but do you think it is reliable?</TD></TR></TABLE>
that would depend on conditions i just stated in above post
overall milage and condition of the engine (that will include and not limit to normal tear/wear, drivers errors and parts failures - depending on how severe these errors and mistakes were, and tuning of course)
that would depend on conditions i just stated in above post
overall milage and condition of the engine (that will include and not limit to normal tear/wear, drivers errors and parts failures - depending on how severe these errors and mistakes were, and tuning of course)
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CharlieGSR
Forced Induction
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Aug 18, 2005 08:21 AM



Good numbers. Details on setup please?


