spring rates for crx hf?????
does anybody have any good reccomendations for the sr that I should get for my car? I was looking to auto X so something for the type of driving would be very helpful. Thanks
what class are you looking to compete in? stock, street prepared, prepared, or modified? that will determine a lot with what you can and should do with suspension in your crx. also what year is your crx?
With as light as the HFs are, something in the 250-300 lb range should be about right if it is still going to be a daily driver. I think mine is 350 front, 250 rear - but I'm getting stiffer (and more neutral) spring rates over the winter.
Matt
Matt
With as light as the HFs are, something in the 250-300 lb range should be about right if it is still going to be a daily driver. I think mine is 350 front, 250 rear - but I'm getting stiffer (and more neutral) spring rates over the winter.
Matt
Matt
I have a 91 SI, that weighs in a 2040 race weight. The 91 HF's were not as light as the 88-89's. I am currently running 300F 550R sr in my car. I am going to increase the front rates. I would not recommend the 550 rates for a daily driver. If I were you I would go with 300F and 350R and get a good adjustable rear swaybar. leave the stock front swaybar in. You will probably want to run the rear bar at or near full stiff as well.
Good luck
Good luck
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but wouldn't that cause massive oversteer for a car as light as mine. Especially since I still have the tiny little stock engine.
Matt
With as light as the HFs are, something in the 250-300 lb range should be about right if it is still going to be a daily driver. I think mine is 350 front, 250 rear - but I'm getting stiffer (and more neutral) spring rates over the winter.
Matt
but wouldn't that cause massive oversteer for a car as light as mine. Especially since I still have the tiny little stock engine.
Matt
but wouldn't that cause massive oversteer for a car as light as mine. Especially since I still have the tiny little stock engine.
But there are a lot of other factors to consider...
Adjustable shocks, while not a means to replace stiffer springs, can take a properly damped shock, along with a reasonable spring rate, and work more effectively than an underdamped shock trying to control a high spring rate.
Surface plays a large factor as well. I've been to a lot of sites where softer is better because of ruts, dips, etc. A stiff car will have difficulty remaining stable if the suspension is non-compliant over rough stuff. This can be negated however if you run on perfect lots. Here in NJ, no such place exists.
Finally, driver smoothness has a lot to do with how one views a car. People will vouch for me (no ego trip) that I am very smooth. It allows me to drive a strangers S2000 as well as my own Civic DX with no ill effects from moving from car to car. In other words, the stiffer you go, and considering all other variables remain the same, the more difficult the car will be to handle.
Based on the fact that you sound like a novice with little experience (based on the vagueness of your original post) building up a full tilt CSP car may be a bit much right away... Not to mention EXPEN$IVE... Just find a properly built example and you'll see what I mean! Start slow and work your way into the sport, you'll enjoy it much longer.
But what do I know?
Anthony "Mario" Crea
Adjustable shocks, while not a means to replace stiffer springs, can take a properly damped shock, along with a reasonable spring rate, and work more effectively than an underdamped shock trying to control a high spring rate.
Surface plays a large factor as well. I've been to a lot of sites where softer is better because of ruts, dips, etc. A stiff car will have difficulty remaining stable if the suspension is non-compliant over rough stuff. This can be negated however if you run on perfect lots. Here in NJ, no such place exists.
Finally, driver smoothness has a lot to do with how one views a car. People will vouch for me (no ego trip) that I am very smooth. It allows me to drive a strangers S2000 as well as my own Civic DX with no ill effects from moving from car to car. In other words, the stiffer you go, and considering all other variables remain the same, the more difficult the car will be to handle.
Based on the fact that you sound like a novice with little experience (based on the vagueness of your original post) building up a full tilt CSP car may be a bit much right away... Not to mention EXPEN$IVE... Just find a properly built example and you'll see what I mean! Start slow and work your way into the sport, you'll enjoy it much longer.
But what do I know?
Anthony "Mario" Crea
the simplest thing for you to do to be competative in street prepared would be to do what i have done to my dx - get a header, k&n filter, adjustable kyb's all around, suspension techniques lowering springs all around, strut tower bars front and rear, and a good set of kuhmo's. set the front kyb's to one less than hardest setting (mine is set at 3 out of 4) and set the rear at hardest (4 out of 4). with that setup, i place in the top third of my class every event. the only ones that i lose are the events that have a longer stretch for higher speeds, since my car can't get there as fast as some of the other civics. and then, after the race, put your street tires back on, and set the kyb's back to a comfortable road ride - i put the fronts back down to 1, and the rears to 2. good luck with racing - i hope everyone's info is helpful.
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Steve Ellsworth
Road Racing / Autocross & Time Attack
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Aug 3, 2001 02:47 AM




