This is not my car, but if you noticed inbetween the headlights where the bumper and hood meet there is a considerable gap. My car is exactly like this one pictured.

The body shop mentioned something about me not having the screws attached on the bottom of the bumper, but I think it is the bumper support.

How can you raise the bumper support 1/4"??

Maybe I am wrong, help me out! cool lata

 

the top part of the bumper bolts onto the radiator support so you can try bending that up a bit or using longer bolts and some washers underneath the bumper.

 

i was left with a crooked gap after an accident. to fix it, I used a 2x4, and a floor jack. I took the front bumper cover off, cut the 2x4 to fit between the floor jack and the core support where the top of the bumper screws in. I pressed down on the other side as i jacked up the low side, it helped alot. You have to be very careful not to break anything, but it worked fine for me. you could probably do something like that and not have to shell out any money to a shop.

 

hyperdecals.....

any before and after pictures?

As I was reading it, do you put the 2x4 inbetween the jack and the support and then pound on the top of the support?

What about just jacking up the car with its weight on the bumper support?

 

if the bumper support is anything like my 00 Si.
take off the bumper. the bumper support has 4 bolts , 2 on each side. there is plenty of room around the screw to play around with it.

slide it up evenly and try that.
should work.

mine.
still isn't perfect. i just gave up on it. it looks good but you can see a slight difference.

 

This is good stuff. I have the same gap and am not much of a body man so any more helpful tips would be great. The washer idea makes a lot of sence and seems like it would be the easiest because you could step it up a little at a time.

I think my gap has to do with the new radiator support not being welded in just right but hopefully I can fix it with some of these ideas.

 

does anyone know if the 92-95 civic bumper supports have adjustable bolts like the 96-00 the other guy was reffering to?

 

theyre spot welded on, and a mother ****** to take off to boot. i would try some washers in different places.

 

I think the main problem is that hondas are built to such exacting standards and their panels line up so perfectly and tight that when they're in accidents it is very hard to get them to line up as good as they did from the factory.

Has anyone tried anything other than washers?

 

most 92-95 civics are a huge pain in the **** to get the headlights to line up as well.

I am a really picky person and I bet its hard to find a civic that hasnt been in some sort of a small accident, a poor parker could hit the front bumper like mine and knock it out of allignment.

 

If you're really concerned about the bumper fitment and don't want to pay a body shop, you can always drill and tap new holes a little further back in the support so that you can pull the front bumper back enough that it lines up perfectly.

 

the bumper doesnt stick out.

Its sticks down, sagging almost, I tried the washers and it solved most of the problem, but I will probably just start massaging the body to make it even all around

 

Actually, I was looking real close at my front end again and the gap under my headlights/corner lights is actually worse then the gap between the bumper and hood.

Does anyone have any suggestions for fixing the gap under the head lights?

 

you can also try lowering the hood a little with the rubber stops on the front core support

 

I wouldnt "pound" anything because you will probably bend something that you dont want to. I used the 2x4 and the floor jack and went very slow and was very gentle as I pushed the low side up and the high side down with my hand. I had a couple shops look at the gap and they said they would basically be doing the same thing but for $$$.

 

hood latches are adjustable as well as hood stops. fenders are adjustable and even fixed-bolt hoods are adjustable. When loosening body parts be careful of any factory shims that were used as you dont want to lose them since they could always be used elsewhere if there is a gap that needs shimming.

 

how do you adjust the fenders? I loosened up the bolts in attemp to angle the fender more downward (front of fender 1/4 lower) so the fender (headlight hood area) would be flush. But it wouldnt move much

 

I have the same problem...except I have a gap between the bumber and fender.. any suggestions for that?

 

hey... my car is being used as a model! cool. anyway...yeah my car has a gap because of the rad support. it was banged in after previous owner hoped a high curb. a mechanic friend of mine told me i can tie it to a tree and reverse...dunno if i'm gonna go that direction...but he said it'll work.

 

Its so nice to know that there are so many incompetent body shops out there that after we have something fixed, we still get this ****.

I've given up on trying to get those gaps to fit right, after an accident, if the shop didn't get it right, almost never will it be right again.

Even after a mild fender bender I know **** will never fit right and I just want to get rid of the car!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

We work so hard to make them look nice.......

just venting.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by yusoslo &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">how do you adjust the fenders? I loosened up the bolts in attemp to angle the fender more downward (front of fender 1/4 lower) so the fender (headlight hood area) would be flush. But it wouldnt move much</TD></TR></TABLE>

mainly the fenders are adjustable front to back (door gap) and in to out (against hood line)

also a fender will not move much if there's a bolt still tight. there's generally a bolt or 2 in the door jamb area and 2-3 bolts on bottom of fender by rocker panel.

If you are trying to push a fender forward you definitely have to have the bolts inside the door jamb area loose or out or it won't budge much at all. Can be a pain getting them back in if out so just loosen them as much as you can without them losing thread grip.

 

I have loosened the two bolts inside the door jam and the 4 in the engine bay, it seems that the mounting point underneath the fender needs to be dropped a bit.

Are you saying there are more bolts that the 2 in the jam and the 4 in the engine bay?

I had very little play when adjusting it, and it seems that is all lines up intill you get to the very front of the fender near the corner light it sits up 1/8 inch.

(I know I am ****)

could I remove the fender and massage the mounting point lower?

 

there might also be a mounting bolt behind the turn signal mirror dont forget that.

that and if there are inner support braces on the fender, the only way you'll know they're their is when you've got all the bolts out and the fender wont come off

those are generally accessible by removing the inner fender well or at least pulling it back.

I dont think honda has a brace on it's fender but it might have a bolt behind the turn signal mirror housing preventing your adjustment up there.