Building a D series???
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Building a D series???
I had planned on doing a b-series swap, but my d16a6 only has 85k on it, so I'm thinking of just building it up.
Is there much aftermarket support for building up the bottom end with rods and pistons and stuff like that. I'm really only looking to dip into the mid to high 13's. Does this sound possible with a d? Would I be better off going turbo or n/a? Would it be best to keep the a6 head or should I get a z6 and do a mini-me swap? Also is there any LSD trannys for the d series? I heard the DOHC zc's came with them, but I'm not to sure about that. Any info would be greatly apprieciated. Thanks guys.
Is there much aftermarket support for building up the bottom end with rods and pistons and stuff like that. I'm really only looking to dip into the mid to high 13's. Does this sound possible with a d? Would I be better off going turbo or n/a? Would it be best to keep the a6 head or should I get a z6 and do a mini-me swap? Also is there any LSD trannys for the d series? I heard the DOHC zc's came with them, but I'm not to sure about that. Any info would be greatly apprieciated. Thanks guys.
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Joined: May 2002
Posts: 9,814
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From: Granada Hills, Ca, USA
Re: Building a D series??? (hybrid1990crx)
There's lots of support for the D-series.
You can find aftermarket LSD's like Quaife to add to an Si tranny or you can find a factory LSD equiped ZC tranny.
13's shouldn't be hard to get at all even on a stock block. A greddy turbo kit should get you close to where you what you are asking for.
You can find aftermarket LSD's like Quaife to add to an Si tranny or you can find a factory LSD equiped ZC tranny.
13's shouldn't be hard to get at all even on a stock block. A greddy turbo kit should get you close to where you what you are asking for.
Re: Building a D series??? (4drEF)
Joined: Mar 2003
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From: Tallahassee, Fla, United states of America
Re: (hybrid1990crx)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hybrid1990crx »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I'm looking for driveability too. I need it as a daily driver. </TD></TR></TABLE>
If your only shooting for 13's you can go with either set up.
If your only shooting for 13's you can go with either set up.
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Joined: Apr 2002
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From: sioux falls, sd
Re: Building a D series??? (hybrid1990crx)
Here is what i am thinking of doing with my car, its a N/A setup also
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=765718
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=765718
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From: Tallahassee, Fla, United states of America
Re: Building a D series??? (matt j)
Nice set up.. but here are some things that you don't need:
bored .50 over - past the limit
knife edged and micropolished crank - knife edging is a waist of money, and dangerous on a street car
fully blue printed and balanced - OEM honda parts are very well balanced+when you get your crank polished, they will balance it for you.
full cryo treatment of all springs, retainers, cam, rocker arm assembly = not worth the money on a street car.
bored .50 over - past the limit
knife edged and micropolished crank - knife edging is a waist of money, and dangerous on a street car
fully blue printed and balanced - OEM honda parts are very well balanced+when you get your crank polished, they will balance it for you.
full cryo treatment of all springs, retainers, cam, rocker arm assembly = not worth the money on a street car.
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Joined: Apr 2002
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From: sioux falls, sd
Re: Building a D series??? (infinatenexus)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by infinatenexus »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Nice set up.. but here are some things that you don't need:
bored .50 over - past the limit
knife edged and micropolished crank - knife edging is a waist of money, and dangerous on a street car
fully blue printed and balanced - OEM honda parts are very well balanced+when you get your crank polished, they will balance it for you.
full cryo treatment of all springs, retainers, cam, rocker arm assembly = not worth the money on a street car.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
alright,
one, this is not going to be a street car anymore, its being built for racing, and honda does a .50 overbore on stock pistons, this is why i am doing this
two, i know the knife edging and micropolishing is not worth it, but its a race car and i need as much power as i can get, if done right, it is still reliable.
three, The full balance and blueprint of the motor is very much well worth the money, a shop is not putting this motor together, i am, and this is the reason why the balance and blueprint is in there.
Four, The cryo treatment is not a waste of money, for a full motor is only $550, i dont know why people think it is more expensive and a waste of money. It ensure longevity in the motor and bearings. Why wouldnt anybody want more reliability out of a motor?
bored .50 over - past the limit
knife edged and micropolished crank - knife edging is a waist of money, and dangerous on a street car
fully blue printed and balanced - OEM honda parts are very well balanced+when you get your crank polished, they will balance it for you.
full cryo treatment of all springs, retainers, cam, rocker arm assembly = not worth the money on a street car.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
alright,
one, this is not going to be a street car anymore, its being built for racing, and honda does a .50 overbore on stock pistons, this is why i am doing this
two, i know the knife edging and micropolishing is not worth it, but its a race car and i need as much power as i can get, if done right, it is still reliable.
three, The full balance and blueprint of the motor is very much well worth the money, a shop is not putting this motor together, i am, and this is the reason why the balance and blueprint is in there.
Four, The cryo treatment is not a waste of money, for a full motor is only $550, i dont know why people think it is more expensive and a waste of money. It ensure longevity in the motor and bearings. Why wouldnt anybody want more reliability out of a motor?
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Joined: Mar 2002
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From: www.exospeed.com, Valencia, CA
Re: Building a D series??? (hybrid1990crx)
your goal is only 13s? that should be no problem. We have been building 13 second d16a6 setups in CRX for years without touching the BOTTOM end. thats pretty much a great head work with the proper cam.
imagine 13 seconds with a stock bottom end. its possible.
imagine 13 seconds with a stock bottom end. its possible.
Re: Building a D series??? (Charlie Moua)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Charlie Moua »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">hahha listen to Wil, he will take you in the right direction with d or b series!
</TD></TR></TABLE>
He is the first person who pops into my head when I hear D series
</TD></TR></TABLE>He is the first person who pops into my head when I hear D series
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 1,656
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From: Tallahassee, Fla, United states of America
Re: Building a D series??? (matt j)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by matt j »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
two, i know the knife edging and micropolishing is not worth it, but its a race car and i need as much power as i can get, if done right, it is still reliable.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Contact Earl.. he'll tell you exactly why you shoudln't do it. Considering he does machine work like that for a living, I would say he cn offer an "expert" opinion. If you knofe edge your crank, you'll only make it weaker, why not get a windage tray instead. It's not like your crank is spinning in a crank case full of oil like in an old school domestic.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by matt j »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
three, The full balance and blueprint of the motor is very much well worth the money, a shop is not putting this motor together, i am, and this is the reason why the balance and blueprint is in there.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Unlike chevy 350's of the past... honda motors are made with very exacting tollerances, you don't need to spend the money on a 13 second car.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by matt j »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Four, The cryo treatment is not a waste of money, for a full motor is only $550, i dont know why people think it is more expensive and a waste of money. It ensure longevity in the motor and bearings. Why wouldnt anybody want more reliability out of a motor?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Why not get LS rods, they will be cheaper, and stronger. But once again, this is not needed for a 13 second car.
I hope you realize that for all the money you are going to put into beefing up stock internals, you could go with a set of forged pistons/rods.
two, i know the knife edging and micropolishing is not worth it, but its a race car and i need as much power as i can get, if done right, it is still reliable.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Contact Earl.. he'll tell you exactly why you shoudln't do it. Considering he does machine work like that for a living, I would say he cn offer an "expert" opinion. If you knofe edge your crank, you'll only make it weaker, why not get a windage tray instead. It's not like your crank is spinning in a crank case full of oil like in an old school domestic.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by matt j »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
three, The full balance and blueprint of the motor is very much well worth the money, a shop is not putting this motor together, i am, and this is the reason why the balance and blueprint is in there.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Unlike chevy 350's of the past... honda motors are made with very exacting tollerances, you don't need to spend the money on a 13 second car.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by matt j »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Four, The cryo treatment is not a waste of money, for a full motor is only $550, i dont know why people think it is more expensive and a waste of money. It ensure longevity in the motor and bearings. Why wouldnt anybody want more reliability out of a motor?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Why not get LS rods, they will be cheaper, and stronger. But once again, this is not needed for a 13 second car.
I hope you realize that for all the money you are going to put into beefing up stock internals, you could go with a set of forged pistons/rods.
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 8
Likes: 0
From: victoria, b.c., canada
Try a d16 with zc pistons, 92 - 95 si headgasket and deck your head. We run this in a rally car and it scoots like you wouldn't believe. Thats on a stock head, cam, and a 4 - 2 - 1 manifold. So upgrade to header, good cam, cold air, dump the converter, go with a full flowing exhaust, and a little porting on the head, it should be obtainable. The only down side to this is you need 98 or better octane.
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