ok, first of all i have been collecting parts for months to turbo my car. 4000 miles ago i swapped in my mildly built b16a2 and it drove fine with no CELs for 4000+ miles. Now i turboed it last weekend and all hell has broken loose. first of all i had my timing belt break on me on tuesday, but i was coming to a stop and i had not been reving the engine. my mechanic replaced it and we made sure it didnt bend any valves. thank god it didnt. now recently everytime i drive it it will just die like the alt. or battery went out. i dont think it is the alt. because it was fine before and so was the battery. now tonight i was on my way to drop the car off at a friends house and it died in the middle of the road and the oil pressure light went on and wont go off now.

my question is what can cause that? i mean it was fine before but now its like my car is going crazy.

it will idle fine for a long time and then like within 5 minutes of driving it it looses all power and shuts off.

oh also my speedo wont work now and my tachwont work either.

this is what i recently installed, if you can think of any reason why it would do this please let me know what you think. thanx:

sc61
inline pro mani
tial 38mm .5bar wg
hks bov
flamenco-t oil lines
resistor box-wired into the grey plug under the intake manifold on a 1997 civic
780cc injectors
gsr oil pan w/ oil return bung
hondata s200b
walboro 255hp

btw i am on a 2.2 vtec prelude basemap, it is really rich, could this have anything to do with it?

plaese help


Modified by blueturbo4door at 10:51 AM 3/1/2004

 

get it tuned properly then come back

 

Does it vibrate badly?

My car was running like crap and vibrating horribly. I found out that the turbine is off balance and I need to replace the turbo. Even without spooling up I was shaking bolts loose.


(it was a well-used turbo for mockup purposes, the new one will run me $300)

 

no it doesnt shake at all. everything it torqued and tightned properly. my main concern is the oil light. it is the stock dummy light and i know it doesnt come on unless there is pretty much no pressure at all. what would cause this? it is a fresh motor with only 4k on it. i put a new waterpump, oil pump, tensioner, timing belt and everything else like pistons, rods, bearings, valve springs, and seals.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by b16ahybrid &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">get it tuned properly then come back</TD></TR></TABLE>

i cant get it tuned properly if it wont even start to drive it to the tuner, besides i dont think running rich will cause the oil light to come on.

 

where in new mexico are you?

 

albuquerque

 

You have a blown fuse or an electrical short somewhere.

 

make sure you dont have any loose grounds ifyou havent already checked that. sounds like symptoms of it. your distributor and vss may not be getting sufficient power.

 

have you checked all the basics?

what does the compression check read?
what do your spark plugs look like?
(if you are running really rich then you will foul the plugs really fast)

Look into your oil light coming on. Do you have an oil press gauge? whats it reading.

That basemap is killing you. basemaps are usually just meant for you to get your car to the dyno to get it tuned.

Good luck on fixing everything. looks like u did a lot of research when selecting parts. dont let it all go to waste

 

definatly sounds like something electrical and not mechanical. If it runs fine for 5 minutes or so, THEN dies check allll of your grounds - specifically the one on the back of the thermostat housing (that one deals with the vss, tach, and speedo). Mine was extremely loose and my car would die every once in a while when it wouldn't make contact... i tightened it doiwn and no more problems.

-ryan

 

check your im

 

i would check the alternator and the battery voltage. do u have any type of oil leaks that mighg cause the oil light to go on

 

ok, the alt. was crapped out. i hope that solves a lot of problems but i am still worried about the oil pressure light.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by psileepR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">have you checked all the basics?

what does the compression check read? about 155-160 across the board
what do your spark plugs look like? they are black
(if you are running really rich then you will foul the plugs really fast)

Look into your oil light coming on. Do you have an oil press gauge? whats it reading. i have an autometer but it isn't hooked up yet

That basemap is killing you. basemaps are usually just meant for you to get your car to the dyno to get it tuned. yeah it is at the tuner right now

Good luck on fixing everything. looks like u did a lot of research when selecting parts. dont let it all go to waste </TD></TR></TABLE>

yeah i tried to get all top quality parts, so hopefully it will work out ok.

any other input on the oil light, would it come on if the car was struggling for power from a bad alt?

 

make sure TPS voltage @ WOT is 4.5V.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DaX &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">make sure TPS voltage @ WOT is 4.5V.</TD></TR></TABLE>

ill check that too. it should be ok since the car ran cherry before the swap and i didnt mess with the tps at all but it doesn't hurt to check it.

 

bump, anyone with input on the oil light?