Best swap with the following parts
89 DX, running right now
I have a complete d16a6 (needs a rebuild)
I have a d16z6, head, block...no distro or ECU or IM
I have the MPFI wire harness
I have the resistor box
I have 2 d16a6 ECUs
and I have the stock d15.
I was curious about swapping the z6 head on the d15, apparently the d15's rod ratios make it quite powerful. (puts out power till 8K), then there's the option of the d16z6 block and head with the a6 IM.
Or I could put the d16a6 or z6 block with z6 head with the d15 pistons (for higher compression)
In anycase, this is my winterbeater, so I'd like to stick with the parts I have.
THanks in advance.
I have a complete d16a6 (needs a rebuild)
I have a d16z6, head, block...no distro or ECU or IM
I have the MPFI wire harness
I have the resistor box
I have 2 d16a6 ECUs
and I have the stock d15.
I was curious about swapping the z6 head on the d15, apparently the d15's rod ratios make it quite powerful. (puts out power till 8K), then there's the option of the d16z6 block and head with the a6 IM.
Or I could put the d16a6 or z6 block with z6 head with the d15 pistons (for higher compression)
In anycase, this is my winterbeater, so I'd like to stick with the parts I have.
THanks in advance.
k man heres what you do, i have a d15b2 with mpfi and it rips pretty good in a dx, it has stock everything including exhaust and i busted 16.4 all day, i wouldnt reccomend using the z6 head because you will have a lot of wiring to do (obd0-obd1) and vtec etc and u have to get a z6 dizzy and a lot of other parts...i was going to do a mini-me but then got a b16 for 900 cdn
...hope this helps
...hope this helps
Thanks for the tips dude.
I might just end up dooing that as the deal I had on the z6 isnt retuning my pms anymore
As for the z6, you dont need to convert to 0bd1 if its hybrided.
I'm not sure if I wanna stick with my d15 tho...the ******* thing will NOT heat up in winter....I'm about to call it quits and say it just doesnt make enough heat. (Even with the rad completely blocked, running it at 4000, the needle doesnt move past normal)
I might just end up dooing that as the deal I had on the z6 isnt retuning my pms anymore
As for the z6, you dont need to convert to 0bd1 if its hybrided.
I'm not sure if I wanna stick with my d15 tho...the ******* thing will NOT heat up in winter....I'm about to call it quits and say it just doesnt make enough heat. (Even with the rad completely blocked, running it at 4000, the needle doesnt move past normal)
New thermostat
New coolant
Flushed heater core and it flowed with no obstruction
Valve opens properly
Short of running a metal tube around the exhaust manifold and running air therough that I'm out of ideas :D
New coolant
Flushed heater core and it flowed with no obstruction
Valve opens properly
Short of running a metal tube around the exhaust manifold and running air therough that I'm out of ideas :D
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You doing the work yourself? If so D16A6 Block, DX Pistons, A6 head, Y8 head gasket (upgrade from the A6 one cuz its metal and thinner). I put this in the comp calculator and it came up with 9.9:1 which aint' too shabby. Someone correct me if the dx pistons don't work with the A6 rods, it seems like they should. Use the A6 manifold and sell the remaining parts for an Si tranny. While you are at it do a rebuild on the head (could even shave it a bit for more comp) and bottom end, I don't see why you couldn't get out the whole project for under 200 bucks.
See that's the info I wanted 
Dooing everything myself...I was under the impression the dx pistons yeilded a 10.5 CR in the d16 block...good to know it will be lower.
I have an Si tranny...BUT the diff is shot, and the synchroes are probably toast...I will most likely hybrid it by putting the Si final drive in the DX, since my dx works pretty good. (I'm sure it will shift a whole lot better once I have an engine who's RMPs drop when I let off the gas)
Assuming I can still get the z6 tho, which block, which head?
As for putting the d15 pistons in the d16 block...I was under the impression you'd use the same rod, its the crank that would alter the displacement of the engine.

Dooing everything myself...I was under the impression the dx pistons yeilded a 10.5 CR in the d16 block...good to know it will be lower.
I have an Si tranny...BUT the diff is shot, and the synchroes are probably toast...I will most likely hybrid it by putting the Si final drive in the DX, since my dx works pretty good. (I'm sure it will shift a whole lot better once I have an engine who's RMPs drop when I let off the gas)
Assuming I can still get the z6 tho, which block, which head?
As for putting the d15 pistons in the d16 block...I was under the impression you'd use the same rod, its the crank that would alter the displacement of the engine.
Personally to same some time and effort i would just do the non vtec route, unless you want to spend the extra money for an rpm activated switch (75 bucks). But if so do the Z6 head, Dx pistons, Z6/A6 block, Z6 intake/exhaust manifold/throttle body, Y8 headgasket. Using this combo will bump it up to 10.6:1 so if you want it that high you can.
Sweet...but pushing that on regular wont be smart....if I do manage to get the z6, I think I'll go that route. The rpm switch isnt a real problem...I have a buddy that reprograms ECUs and he did mention he could set it up to control VTEC....as of yet, I'm not sure how....I know he could do it by sending a CEL at a given RPM and using that on a relay....but that would activate VTEC on any CEL.
Where is that compression calculator you are using?
I'd love to be able to see the results of different combos
Where is that compression calculator you are using?
I'd love to be able to see the results of different combos
thanks for the offer....first off tho, I wanna see if I can salvage that Si tranny I have lying around....if not, I will be in the market for sure.
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