Heres the setup:

95 Civic DX Car Harness
00 GSR OBD-2 Engine Harness
OBD1 P72 ECU

Here's what we wired. VTEC solenoid, VTEC Pressure switch, IAB's, and the knock sensor.

VTEC doesnt engage, and the car is hitting a rev limiter at 6700ish RPM. We followed the instructions posted up on here in on one of my other post. Does anyone have any ideas of what's going on here? The vtec oil pressure switch plug is cracked, but it's solidly connected to the actual pressure switch terminals, so we dont THINK that is it. We're going to put in a p28 in tonight and just lock the butterflies open on the gsr to see if it runs properly. But thats just a shot in the dark. Any and all help would be aprreciated.


Edit: its a 2000 harness, not 99 but should still be the same.

 

why didnt you use the civic harness for the motor?

 

The car had an LS motor in it before. I was recomended to use the GSR harness since it plugged right into the factory 95 harness. Here is the first thread i made regarding this swap.

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=744309

 

recheck all the wires. also check the O2 wires as well. using the 95 car harness with the OBD 2 engine harness is okay. there are 2 wires for the IAB, red goes to A3, black goes to a power if you are using OBD 1 P72.

 

I dont have the car in front of me so i have to double check. Would the IAB wire being hooked up incorrectly cause the vtec to not engage?

 

This is the wiring diagram i have. It does not say to use A3....

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mrbsponge &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I dont have the car in front of me so i have to double check. Would the IAB wire being hooked up incorrectly cause the vtec to not engage? </TD></TR></TABLE>

nope....... only prevents the secondaries from opening. and you can check this by looking at the hydraulic valve that opens the secondaries while someone else starts the car...... if it moves, the connection is good.


Modified by Team 4R at 12:35 PM 2/5/2004

 

Ok, so the question is, whats causing the solenoid to not engage.

 

i would say run along the length of the wires and make sure they are in the correct places........ using the obd2 harness with an obd1 car and ecu may have caused a misconnetion..... it could be something as simple as moving one wire to another location.........

wait, no vtec and car is rev-limited to 6700? you didn't reuse the ls ecu by accident, did you?

 

lol i thought the exact same thing.

No its an obd1 p72 GSR ECU from a 94 integra. Thats why im totally confused.

 

getting any cels? maybe someone sold u a LS ecu with a p72 sticker on it... try putting the ecu in another car

 

Yes im getting a cel. me and mike (nchatch) have looked at both of our hatchbacks and seriousely cannot find the diagnostic port. Rediculous and makes us look like idiots i know. Can anyone help us with this? We do appreciate it.

 

Anyone else have any ideas?

We've racked our brains on this one. It just doesnt make much sense.

 

maybe you cross the vtec pressure and solenoid wires.

 

We color coded each one. Im positive that part of it is correct.

Any ideas on whats up with the rev limiter?

 

Last thing to do is to switch to a different ECU and see what happens. Aks your friend to use his. Find out what the CEL is for?

 

there are only a few things that can cause the rev limiter to kick in at 6700. as well as no vtec engagement.

it would be either low oil. or the vtec wire is loose. either way it will be something to do with oil pressure.

 

Does anyone have a picture of the diagnostic check port? We've looked. On more than one car, and more than one time lol and we do not see it. I'd love to see a picture.

Next, im going to put a chipped p28 with a 10k revlimiter in it tonight. So regardless i should not hit a rev limiter, and should hopefully narrow down my damn non vtec issue havin' self.

im always looking for more input, so keep it coming and i will keep updating. Thanks.

Mike
"Sponge"

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mrbsponge &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Does anyone have a picture of the diagnostic check port?
</TD></TR></TABLE>

you dont have one on your car.. your car is an obd1 chasis and only obd2 cars have them..

 

My friend had this problem. What we did to make sure the vtec solenoid works is we wired it to a switch. You dont even have to turn on your car to check it. Just turn the switch on, the solenoid should click. That means it is engaging. It turned out my friends seal around the vtec solenoid was bad. He was losing oil pressure right through the seal. Thats why his Vtec didn't work.

 

i just did it last weekend in my bros 96+ civic and he has a 2 wire adapter plugged into a green plastic adapter which holds it in place. its located on the top left of his ECU.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by http://www.c-speedracing.com/faq/06.php &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">



On the passenger side of your car, under the dash beneath the glove box, you will find a green cover above the kickpanel that houses a blue connector that has two wires.

That you need to do is turn the ignition off, and using the piece of wire or paperclip, jump the blue connector so that you connect the two wires together. Basically stick one end of the paperclip or peice of wire into one prong on the connector and stick the other end of the paperclip or wire into the other prong.

Once you have done this, turn the key to the IGN position and watch your CEL light. It will illuminate in a series of flashes.

You will notice that there will be LONG flashes and SHORT flashes. All of the ECU trouble codes are two-digits. LONG flashes determine the TENS digit by the number of times it flashes, and SHORT flashes determine the ONES digit by the number of times it flashes.

ie. LONG-LONG-LONG-SHORT-SHORT-SHORT-SHORT-PAUSE

is the trouble code: 34

3 LONG flashes followed by 4 short flashes, then a long pause. If that is the only code the ECU is throwing, then the code will simply repeat until you remove the key. If, however there are more than one ECU error code, then you will see a different series of flashes followed by the long pause. Once all the ECU codes have been displayed, they will continuously cycle until you remove the key.

ie. LONG-LONG-SHORT-PAUSE-LONG-LONG-LONG-LONG-SHORT-SHORT-SHORT-PAUSE

is the trouble code: 21 and 43

Once you have determined the codes, you can simply remove the paperclip or wire from the connector and replace it back in the green housing.</TD></TR></TABLE>

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=752178

 

yeah check what kind of code your throwing and hit the helmz and work from there.

 

Yea we pulled this whole car apart and still no diagnostic port.

Heres the news though...

I put ina chipped p28, and a new vtec pressure sensor. Now the car has no revlimiter, but still has no vtec. Tommorrow im going to hit the solenoid with a 12v power source to see if it kicks. Its a 00 gsr motor cant imagine it being bad but we'll see tomorrow.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mrbsponge &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Yea we pulled this whole car apart and still no diagnostic port.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

Look around the ECU for a green adapter/plug and you gotta see it. the CEL will solve your problem so try your best