idle vibration?
Ok, I have a 97 EX 4 cylinder with 127,000 miles and am getting some vibration at idle. I've had all the motor mounts checked and they're good, timing is right on, anything else I can check? Motor is in great condition, no burned oil at every oil change, just can't think what else it might be... Ideas?
what kind of vibration is it. Is the motor skipping or it just feels rough. If it is misfiring it could be as simple as a plug wire. I know epartsco.com is pretty inexpensive for parts. I've also seen a bent valve cause a rough idle. That doesn't sound like your problem . I would check the wires if the ca is misfiring
Yes at 105k, now at 127k. Could a distbiutor cap and rotor make a difference? Thw wires and cap and rotor all look good, but I can't be sure when they were last changed, if ever.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by vabchaccord »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Yes at 105k, now at 127k. Could a distbiutor cap and rotor make a difference? Thw wires and cap and rotor all look good, but I can't be sure when they were last changed, if ever.</TD></TR></TABLE>
If you've never changed your wires... change em. Plugs, cap, rotor should be changed every 60k and the fuel filter every 30k.
I know that accord slushboxes tend to get more idle vibration than a manual.
If you've never changed your wires... change em. Plugs, cap, rotor should be changed every 60k and the fuel filter every 30k.
I know that accord slushboxes tend to get more idle vibration than a manual.
On the fuel filter, I've tried to change this but it is a PITA, and I called Honda and Honda has directly told me those guys are lifetime filters for this vehicle. Anybody heard this or different?
Did the vibration at idle occur right after the timing belt at 105k? Describe exactly how and when it vibrates. Does it go away when you put the gear in park or neutral and raise the RPM's over 1000? Does it vibrate in all gears? Does it vibrate worse in cold weather? At 127000 miles you should go ahead and replace the distributer and rotor button and plugs, but the vibration may not go away. Check your wires, but that is problably not the problem also. Answer all these questions and describe more about the idle vibration and I will help you.
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I bought the car at 116k and have the records showing the T-belt change. Changed the plugs to OEM NGK's when I bought the car, but I haven't got any records of a cap, rotor, or wires change. The only time I get some small vibration is while sitting at a stop in Drive with the brakes holding the vehicle. Not using the AC at this point. No vibration once I start moving. Haven't noticed a discernible difference in cold weather once the engine warms up.
I can't specifically remember if it was there for sure at 116k, but it seems as if it has always been there. Once in P or N, it seems to let up a bit, but there is still a very slight vibration, not much though.
1) Replace the front motor mount. It's easy to do and only costs about 40 dollars for the part at a Honda dealership. Replace it even if it LOOKS good. You have alot of miles on this mount and probably has never been replaced. It is usually the first to go out.
2) If that does not solve the problem, then it is NORMAL HONDA IDLE VIBRATION WITH AGE.
This is another reason WHY Honda's are second to TOYOTA's. Honda just can't figure out this idle vibration for their 4-cyl. motors. Try sitting in a TOYOTA CAMRY after it has 150k and see how smooth it idles even with alot of miles.
2) If that does not solve the problem, then it is NORMAL HONDA IDLE VIBRATION WITH AGE.
This is another reason WHY Honda's are second to TOYOTA's. Honda just can't figure out this idle vibration for their 4-cyl. motors. Try sitting in a TOYOTA CAMRY after it has 150k and see how smooth it idles even with alot of miles.
"1) Replace the front motor mount. It's easy to do and only costs about 40 dollars for the part at a Honda dealership. Replace it even if it LOOKS good. You have alot of miles on this mount and probably has never been replaced. It is usually the first to go out."
Is this an easy procedure? Can I do it as an avg. level home mechanic? What do I specifically do, or this a tutorial somewhere that illustrates how to do it?
Is this an easy procedure? Can I do it as an avg. level home mechanic? What do I specifically do, or this a tutorial somewhere that illustrates how to do it?
Easy to do:
1) raise the engine SLIGHTLY to remove weight off the mount. Remove the bolts holding the mount to frame. Remove center through bolt. Put in new mount.
2) if you cant get to a bolt, then you might have to remove the bracket to the motor. Don't wory this is very easy.
Also, you can get a HAYNES manual with details.
1) raise the engine SLIGHTLY to remove weight off the mount. Remove the bolts holding the mount to frame. Remove center through bolt. Put in new mount.
2) if you cant get to a bolt, then you might have to remove the bracket to the motor. Don't wory this is very easy.
Also, you can get a HAYNES manual with details.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by vabchaccord »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">On the fuel filter, I've tried to change this but it is a PITA, and I called Honda and Honda has directly told me those guys are lifetime filters for this vehicle. Anybody heard this or different?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Bullshit. Theres no such thing. The filter clogs. I took my stock filter out after 75000 miles and I couldn't even blow through the ******* thing.
Whoever told you that was an idiot. A clogged up filter will make your pump work twice as hard and shorten it's life significantly.
Bullshit. Theres no such thing. The filter clogs. I took my stock filter out after 75000 miles and I couldn't even blow through the ******* thing.
Whoever told you that was an idiot. A clogged up filter will make your pump work twice as hard and shorten it's life significantly.
Cool. Thanx for all the help Elvis. I really appreciate it.
P.S. where should I jack the car from, and do I need to just jack the engine enough to relieve the pressure on the mount?
P.S. where should I jack the car from, and do I need to just jack the engine enough to relieve the pressure on the mount?
Any easy way to get at and change this thing? Any pictures or suggestions anywhere? Thanx for raising the BS flag Escobar, I wasn't sure about that answer from Honda anyway, but this thing seems to be a bastard to get at.
Use a block of wood on a floor jack and place it underneath the oil pan to SLIGHTLY raise the engine to take weight off the mount. The wood protects the oil pan.
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