I have a 92 S model and I just put in a 92 H23 with 85,xxx miles on it. Now the problem. The engine starts but it run really rough. It idles at about 1300 (not concerned with that) It drives but just drive really really rough and slow. I pulled this motor myself from a friends wreked Prelude (so I know it worked before I pulled it) I have replaced the ecu and made every connection but one. That little black box that sits on top of the tranny mount in fornt of the fuse box. The S model doesn't have the connector for that plug in its wiring harness I think that box has something to do with the idle control. Could that be my problemand if it is how do I make that connection to the ecu? It is also pouring white smoke out of the exhaust that smells like pure gas. I also had a full tank in it and now I am 1 bar before E and I have only drove it around my box and turned it on for people to help my figure out the problem. I did a compression test and they are all about the same maybe a difference of 5 between 2. It is throwing 2 codes, one is the the knock sensor (it was throwing that code when the engine was pulled) and the Idle Air control. If anybody has any ideas to my car problems that would be great. I haven't driven the car for about 4 months due to the problem with the engine running and my local honda dealer won't touch it because of a motor swap and my local iport shop has no ideas. I will pay anyone who can comeover and get this car to run!!!!

 

are all the timing marks dead on?

 

I think the timing is dead on, I pulled the motor in my garage and just dropped into the engine bay in the same night. I never messed with the timing at all. I might have bumped the crank pulley but I don't think that would change the timing would it?

 

swhat about the igniton timing

 

did you wire the car for the iab's?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by see_our_vtec &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">did you wire the car for the iab's?</TD></TR></TABLE>

I don't think they're "wired", there's just a butterfly valve that opens them.

I would check the IACV first; it should be on the intake manifold. Did you use the F22's wiring harness, or the H23's ?

 

I used the h23 engine wiring harness but for the ecu out to the firewall is the stock f22 wiring harness. I forgot to mention that I did the auto to manual conversion and that works perfectly.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by LudeyKrus &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I don't think they're "wired", there's just a butterfly valve that opens them.

I would check the IACV first; it should be on the intake manifold. Did you use the F22's wiring harness, or the H23's ?</TD></TR></TABLE>

look on the back of your manifold for a little black box. should be a 2 wire plug there, that is plugged into the box which runs to the iab diaphragm and back.

 

Removing the IAB butterflies or not removing them will not effect anything but very slight acceleration differences....I removed mine and I can't even tell....I promise you it ain't the IAB

 

sounds like a timing problem

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Phatazzintegra &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">sounds like a timing problem</TD></TR></TABLE>
most deff

 

I am taking it to a shop tonight to have them check the timing. They don't think that is the problem but I am going to have them do it anyways. The motor sounds like it should up near the engine but the exhaust has a stutter almost. It almost sounds like a dual exhaust 5.0 or something. Every where I take this the shop people are baffled. Has anyone had a problem like this?

 

Okay I have 2 guesses.... 1st your engine ground... Try adding another grounding wire to the rear of the block... See if that helps at all. (timing is going to be all screwed up because of the knock sensor problem. Might want to fix that now.)

My second guess is the fuel system. Sound like it's running way too rich.. Did you change out the injector resistor box thingy (forgot the real name) it's the heat sync looking thing up next to the fire wall on the drivers side... Also might want to try disconnecting your O2 sensor (just unplug it) and see if it runs any better...

 

I did replace the ground wires with bigger gauge wire and I also added a HiFlow Fuel Rail. I will try to unplug the 02 sensor tomorrow and see what that does. Thanks for all the suggestions!

 

Dont forget that the knock sensor is going to screw everything up too! Get thta fixed then see what the problem is.