Tips and advice needed for pulling/rebuilding engine
Thread Starter
Honda-Tech Member
iTrader: (3)
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 2,456
Likes: 0
From: Albuquerque, United States of America
Alright, I'm in the process of taking out my motor (1995 b18c1 115k miles, smoking really bad, about 1 quart of oil every 100-200 miles) to be rebuilt. Now, I looked around the engine bay, and I've been wondering a few things.
1) Can the engine and tranny come out as one piece through the top of the engine bay?
2) Do the accessories have to be taken off? If so, how should the a/c be taken care of?
3) Where should I put the chains? I'm thinking of the driver side mount, the tranny mount, and someplace on the back, like that tranny->engine bolt in the starter. Does that sound alright?
Now onto the rebuild. I'm keeping everything stock, so don't suggest 15:1 compression pistons or jun stage 3 cams or anything like that. Anyways, here's what I have planned, and please give me suggestions on this.
1) Bore and hone the block, either 10 or 20 over, whatever's necessary to clean up the cylinders.
2) Clean up everywhere there's a bearing, like where the connecting rods are on the crank, and crank journals (there's 5 places, right?) as well as the cams. By cleaning up, depending on how bad they are, I'll either have them machined, or just polished and have new bearings put in if necessary.
3) New bottom end gaskets: main seals, oil pan seal, etc. and maybe some of the seals for the head: valve guides, head gasket, cam seals. What seals should I need for the top end besides these?
4) I'm going to clean up the head, just get a basic valve job, and replace the valve seals. Should I do anything else?
I've been quoted anywhere from 600-1200 bucks to basically put together a short block (put the pistons, rings, con rods, and crank into the block) depending on how much work and machining is actually needed. Does that sound about right? If you have any advice or recommendations, I'm all ears. Thanks guys and gals ^_^
1) Can the engine and tranny come out as one piece through the top of the engine bay?
2) Do the accessories have to be taken off? If so, how should the a/c be taken care of?
3) Where should I put the chains? I'm thinking of the driver side mount, the tranny mount, and someplace on the back, like that tranny->engine bolt in the starter. Does that sound alright?
Now onto the rebuild. I'm keeping everything stock, so don't suggest 15:1 compression pistons or jun stage 3 cams or anything like that. Anyways, here's what I have planned, and please give me suggestions on this.
1) Bore and hone the block, either 10 or 20 over, whatever's necessary to clean up the cylinders.
2) Clean up everywhere there's a bearing, like where the connecting rods are on the crank, and crank journals (there's 5 places, right?) as well as the cams. By cleaning up, depending on how bad they are, I'll either have them machined, or just polished and have new bearings put in if necessary.
3) New bottom end gaskets: main seals, oil pan seal, etc. and maybe some of the seals for the head: valve guides, head gasket, cam seals. What seals should I need for the top end besides these?
4) I'm going to clean up the head, just get a basic valve job, and replace the valve seals. Should I do anything else?
I've been quoted anywhere from 600-1200 bucks to basically put together a short block (put the pistons, rings, con rods, and crank into the block) depending on how much work and machining is actually needed. Does that sound about right? If you have any advice or recommendations, I'm all ears. Thanks guys and gals ^_^
I have never seen both pulled out from the top I know you can drop it togather out the bottom. My friend pulled a b18b1 out with the alt still on from the bottom. Also you sound alike you got the rest of it right umm you might want to put new bearings in not clean them up. Your there anyways and as time goes by the crank wears there are differant size bearing for differant wear. i hope this helps some
Also to drop it out the bottom just put jacks under it and lower it you might want to get some help on that.
Also to drop it out the bottom just put jacks under it and lower it you might want to get some help on that.
Thread Starter
Honda-Tech Member
iTrader: (3)
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 2,456
Likes: 0
From: Albuquerque, United States of America
hehe, should have made that a little more clear. I'm going to clean up the actual metal surfaces and put in new bearings. I have a hoist in my garage, so I'll just attach the engine to that, then lower it out through the bottom of the car. Hopefully I have enough jack and jack stand to get the car up enough so it'll come out through the bottom
Thanks for the advice
Thanks for the advice
Guest
Posts: n/a
it's best to come out the bottom, the accessories should be removed, especially since they will have to at some point anyway.
if you plan on running stock pistons they only have stock bore and 40 over. ITR pistons and rings would be good here along with a slight head milling a nice 11.5:1 will work well with some basic fuel tuning.
All gaskets should be replaced and they sell complete kits for 1-150. Since your having it balanced now would be the best time to get a light weight crank pulley and flywheel assemled and balanced. Also adding the bolt ons like IM and Hondata IM gasket will be well worth the money. An Apex VAFC can handle all the bolt ons as far as tunning.
Take it really easy on the breakin as it will be weel worth the wait.
if you plan on running stock pistons they only have stock bore and 40 over. ITR pistons and rings would be good here along with a slight head milling a nice 11.5:1 will work well with some basic fuel tuning.
All gaskets should be replaced and they sell complete kits for 1-150. Since your having it balanced now would be the best time to get a light weight crank pulley and flywheel assemled and balanced. Also adding the bolt ons like IM and Hondata IM gasket will be well worth the money. An Apex VAFC can handle all the bolt ons as far as tunning.
Take it really easy on the breakin as it will be weel worth the wait.
Guest
Posts: n/a
do this. put 2x4's under th oil pan area and lower the car with the wheels off until the engine begins to rest on the blocks. the attach the engine hoist to the front motor mount point on the subframe and remove the mounts ect, and use the hoist to lift the car high enough to pull the motor out, adding some grease to the bottom of the 2x4's will help as well.
Guest
Posts: n/a
well u cant pull BOTH out of the top..and if u can i never seen it done at my shop. plus my tip as worthless and obvious it might seem have help of knowledgeable ppl. oyu will be surprised how many people **** this up because they think they are a master mechanic just cause they have there helms strapped to their waist lol...good luck bro!
Trending Topics
Guest
Posts: n/a
once the hoist is in place the mounts can be removed. having a adjustable load leveler and a freind to help is also wise in trying this. Be careful as this will also cause alot of trans fluid to run out.
Thread Starter
Honda-Tech Member
iTrader: (3)
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 2,456
Likes: 0
From: Albuquerque, United States of America
I've decided to take the tranny out from the bottom, then lifting the engine out from the top. Also, are there any sensors, lines, or anything else in the back of the engine that is easily overlooked (and often broken/severed) and needs to be taken out? Thanks again guys.
1)Yes you can pull the motor and tranny out at the same time
2) No - But the AC lines have to be disconnected from the comrpessor. Dont inhale that ****. It kills brain cells. Trust me. lol
3)Check my diagrams. However I'm only going to tease you with those. You need to get a HELMs!



<u>Rebuild</u>
First off, what kind of gas do you plan to run 15:1 CR off of? Diesel? LOL
1) You dont know how far you are going over? YOu NEED to know!!!! .25 over is the OE limit/recommendation
2)Ok....you know about bearing colors and clearence specs right?
3)Damn you really need a HELMs
4)Port job, weld combustion chabmer, lap valve area, blue print.
If you get all that work done for 600-1200 bux... Let me know if it doesn't blow up or who does it. If I didt he work for you. I'd charge you about 2K for labor just for the rebuild without machine work and parts.
2) No - But the AC lines have to be disconnected from the comrpessor. Dont inhale that ****. It kills brain cells. Trust me. lol
3)Check my diagrams. However I'm only going to tease you with those. You need to get a HELMs!



<u>Rebuild</u>
First off, what kind of gas do you plan to run 15:1 CR off of? Diesel? LOL
1) You dont know how far you are going over? YOu NEED to know!!!! .25 over is the OE limit/recommendation
2)Ok....you know about bearing colors and clearence specs right?
3)Damn you really need a HELMs
4)Port job, weld combustion chabmer, lap valve area, blue print.
If you get all that work done for 600-1200 bux... Let me know if it doesn't blow up or who does it. If I didt he work for you. I'd charge you about 2K for labor just for the rebuild without machine work and parts.

Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
rumo1112
All Motor / Naturally Aspirated
9
Mar 1, 2011 07:54 AM
RX7TT
Honda Civic / Del Sol (1992 - 2000)
4
Mar 27, 2003 04:20 PM
Blaze45
Honda CRX / EF Civic (1988 - 1991)
4
Oct 18, 2002 07:45 PM




