Chipped ECU take away Check Engine Lights?
will probably make the code got away and wont fix the problem and even if you get the ecu done properly then it may not show codes that arise in the future
i do not want to buy a dizzy. that would be the only way to fix a code 9. I dont care if it fixes the problem or not.i just want to know if the chip will trick the ecu into thinkin it is fine. thanks
Like it was said above most likely it will. Not 100% sure you might want to search on this some more-- since i cant help you out that much on this one.
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PHiZ »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">No that is the CYP sensor, and it is used in timing calulations, fix the problem, it could be dangerous otherwise.
-PHiZ</TD></TR></TABLE>
-PHiZ</TD></TR></TABLE>
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PHiZ »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">No that is the CYP sensor, and it is used in timing calulations, fix the problem, it could be dangerous otherwise.
-PHiZ</TD></TR></TABLE>
i have that code for a yr and a half now
its a CYL sensor... supposed to say to the ecu everytime the CYL#1 is on TDC
it doesnt affect performance... and i have a dyno sheet to proof it
i have done all u can think off...
i have rewired that sensor 4 times and even with shielded wire, i have checked the sensor and is within specs , i have tested 2 known good dizzy's, i have tried my dizzy on another car and it was fine, i have done all the tests on the ALL DATA cd's and nuttin
-PHiZ</TD></TR></TABLE>
i have that code for a yr and a half now
its a CYL sensor... supposed to say to the ecu everytime the CYL#1 is on TDC
it doesnt affect performance... and i have a dyno sheet to proof it
i have done all u can think off...
i have rewired that sensor 4 times and even with shielded wire, i have checked the sensor and is within specs , i have tested 2 known good dizzy's, i have tried my dizzy on another car and it was fine, i have done all the tests on the ALL DATA cd's and nuttin
PHiZ is right, that's a bad CEL to have. Fix it.
4G VTEC guy, try checking ALL the wires to the dizzy. I got a CYP code even though my CYP was hooked up right - it turned out the CKP wires were flipped. I just went through this myself with an OBD1 conversion.
The following are the ecu pinouts for the sensors on the OBD1 socket.
B11 ORN CYP P
B12 WHT CYP M
B13 ORN/BLU TDC P
B14 WHT/BLU TDC M
B15 BLU/GRN CKP P
B16 BLU/YEL CKP M
4G VTEC guy, try checking ALL the wires to the dizzy. I got a CYP code even though my CYP was hooked up right - it turned out the CKP wires were flipped. I just went through this myself with an OBD1 conversion.
The following are the ecu pinouts for the sensors on the OBD1 socket.
B11 ORN CYP P
B12 WHT CYP M
B13 ORN/BLU TDC P
B14 WHT/BLU TDC M
B15 BLU/GRN CKP P
B16 BLU/YEL CKP M
Actually it does affect performance in the form of efficiency and becuase honda's get great gas mileage you prob. havent noticed a bit of difference.
not getting a signal reference from the computer when the #1 cyl. is at TDC affects fuel economy, emmissions, and cccaannn eventually lead to poor performance.....
but your computer is made to handle these faults and it will compensate for this error that is why you still see good numbers on the dyno
not having a crank angle sensor or #1 TDC affects timing, Pulse width modulation, and injector timing.
fix the problem and dont find expensive ways around it that could get you no where.
not getting a signal reference from the computer when the #1 cyl. is at TDC affects fuel economy, emmissions, and cccaannn eventually lead to poor performance.....
but your computer is made to handle these faults and it will compensate for this error that is why you still see good numbers on the dyno
not having a crank angle sensor or #1 TDC affects timing, Pulse width modulation, and injector timing.
fix the problem and dont find expensive ways around it that could get you no where.
good info. I know this hasent affected my performance because my car still feels strong as hell. But, i do think that it has affected my gas milage. Ive heard the only way to fix this is to just buy a new dizzy right?
If it's not a problem with the wiring and it persists between ECUs then yeah, I'd say that sensor is blown. You can always test it... I'm going off memory here but I believe if you check resistance between each of the sensor pins (they are paired vertically) you should see around 350 ohms, and neither of the pins should have continuity to ground. The sensor is internal to the distrib and requires distrib replacement, yeah
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