Whats the safest psi i can run daily on a gsr with 10.6:1 JE pistons, stock rods, hondata, and tuning it on a dyno. Can i use a headgasket to maybe lower the compression ratio down a bit? thanks in advance

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by GS-Rcivic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Whats the safest psi i can run daily on a gsr with 10.6:1 JE pistons, stock rods, hondata, and tuning it on a dyno. Can i use a headgasket to maybe lower the compression ratio down a bit? thanks in advance </TD></TR></TABLE>

Use a thicker headgasket to lower it down to ~9:5:1, you should be able to do 350-400whp on race gas..

 

I love how this question gets asked about every 2 weeks. It all depends on the turbo size. Basically my rule of thumb has been 300 whp is about as far as i feel safe with excellent tuning. I have seen more power made, and motor blown on less, its all in the setup. T3/T04E , maybe 12-14 on a good day, i will just stick to 11 psi, on a stock B series rod. My $.02

Brett

 

i coulnt find anything on search so thats why i posted it. I was thinging about geting a t3/t4 and staying under 10lbs. Say i did change the rods to Eagle H-beams, is this compression gonna be a problem for me?

 

its not the boost that controls how the rods will hold its the power output and tuning. i say a well tuned car will only do 300whp on stock rods, and thats right around where they can easily break/bend at any time. now if the car doesnt have **** for tuning, and is detonating, the stress on the rod is much higher and will break at a much lower HP number.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 99B16Si &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">its not the boost that controls how the rods will hold its the power output and tuning. i say a well tuned car will only do 300whp on stock rods, and thats right around where they can easily break/bend at any time. now if the car doesnt have **** for tuning, and is detonating, the stress on the rod is much higher and will break at a much lower HP number.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I have more faith in my rods than i do in my OEM pistons/ Ringlands...I know plenty of people with over 300whp on all stock internals and it has been reliable (I Drive my car very hard daily, revving to 8500 running 1bar on pump gas)...I say pickup a Thicker headgasket to lower your comp. to 9:5:1 ish and run like 14-17psi on a t3/t4...

 

im not saying it cant been done but why risk it when u can pick up a set of eagles for 300bucks. back in the day on my 1.6block i was running 15psi and a 12.7 on street tires w/ a t3/t4e on my stock rods and i melted an SRP piston a few months down the road from too much timing and bad detonation. the semi-forged piston gave out before the stock rod. im sure the car was making over 300whp also at the time, but i never dyno'd it....hence the bad tuning/detonation

 

its not the price of rods that is bad, its if you have to pull your motor all apart, etc, that is what gets expensive...Too much timing will def do that, Im making over 300whp all stock internals and my timing is VERY conservative..

 

I am stock block B16 and am running stock compression, however, I may do a 2 or 3mm headgasket to safen things up a bit.

Brett

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by yellowhonda88 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I am stock block B16 and am running stock compression, however, I may do a 2 or 3mm headgasket to safen things up a bit.

Brett</TD></TR></TABLE>

If you need a headgasket, let me know, i have a spare inline pro one i never used, willing to sell for very cheap..