Changing motor mounts
Been looking at my gf's engine bay for a while and it looks like the motor mounts are pretty bad. Odd since the car only has like 75k on it. So I'm going to spray it with some brake cleaner to see if it's just amounted rust or dust. But in the case that it needs to be replaced, where or what are the best mounts to buy. No engine swap, just motor mount swap. And do I need to pull the engine to do this or can I just swap in place with a suspended engine? Thanks in advance.
just get stock mounts, they work fine. she dosent need hasport mounts.
and you can replace the mounts while the motor is in the car but if you decide to replace the rear mount it is very difficult with the motor in the car. the 4 frount mounts are simple replacments.
and you can replace the mounts while the motor is in the car but if you decide to replace the rear mount it is very difficult with the motor in the car. the 4 frount mounts are simple replacments.
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jdmeg693 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i'd say just go to the junkyard and get some stock ones.</TD></TR></TABLE>
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by The Internet Tough Guy »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">just fill the ones on there up with some window weld.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Oh come on guys, dont start recomending half *** fixes. Just go get some new OE ones from either the dealership if you have deep pockets, or get some from your local auto parts store (autozone, napa, etc). It's that simple. If you "temporarly fix" the problem with window weld or old nasty ones from a junkyard, you've just installed another problem. Fixing them with new fresh mounts will give you another 50k or more (how ever long it took for your current ones to break)
FYI, I do realize this thread is old as hell but I'm searching for a how-to on an easy way to change mine out. I bought new ones.. front and front left... came out to under 80 for OE mounts...
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by The Internet Tough Guy »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">just fill the ones on there up with some window weld.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Oh come on guys, dont start recomending half *** fixes. Just go get some new OE ones from either the dealership if you have deep pockets, or get some from your local auto parts store (autozone, napa, etc). It's that simple. If you "temporarly fix" the problem with window weld or old nasty ones from a junkyard, you've just installed another problem. Fixing them with new fresh mounts will give you another 50k or more (how ever long it took for your current ones to break)
FYI, I do realize this thread is old as hell but I'm searching for a how-to on an easy way to change mine out. I bought new ones.. front and front left... came out to under 80 for OE mounts...
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ..::91TEG-G2::.. »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Oh come on guys, dont start recomending half *** fixes. Just go get some new OE ones from either the dealership if you have deep pockets, or get some from your local auto parts store (autozone, napa, etc). It's that simple. If you "temporarly fix" the problem with window weld or old nasty ones from a junkyard, you've just installed another problem. Fixing them with new fresh mounts will give you another 50k or more (how ever long it took for your current ones to break)</TD></TR></TABLE>
Have you window welded any of your mounts? I have on my track car and they have held up for two years of solid abuse. Does the car rattle and vibrate? Yep. Should he do it to his girlfriends daily driven accord? Nope.
Those front lower cross member mounts on accords suck. I would put money that every one that comes in to our shop is busted. I mean all you can do is replace it and hope it'll last a year. Same thing with the upper timing belt side mounts on 96-00 Civics. 50K more miles is a pipe dream. Just most owners can't tell or look and most techs (unless they work at a dealer) won't check them either.
I would just look into ordering OEM replacements from like Majestic or something as it is really your only option. Aftermarket mounts or inserts will last longer, but at the cost of comfort.
Have you window welded any of your mounts? I have on my track car and they have held up for two years of solid abuse. Does the car rattle and vibrate? Yep. Should he do it to his girlfriends daily driven accord? Nope.
Those front lower cross member mounts on accords suck. I would put money that every one that comes in to our shop is busted. I mean all you can do is replace it and hope it'll last a year. Same thing with the upper timing belt side mounts on 96-00 Civics. 50K more miles is a pipe dream. Just most owners can't tell or look and most techs (unless they work at a dealer) won't check them either.
I would just look into ordering OEM replacements from like Majestic or something as it is really your only option. Aftermarket mounts or inserts will last longer, but at the cost of comfort.
ok if the car is stock then get oe mounts.. if you want her car to be more to YOUR liking get hasports etc but she will probably complain after a while.. anyway...
my method of changing them (dont see another real way..)
pulling motor isnt neccessary.
if you need to get under the car put the car on stands and get a good hydro jack for the motor. id support the motor on the tranny.. duno if thats a good idea but shur beats the oilpan..
after the vehicle is stable raise the jack so its applying pressure to the engine but not actually doing any lifting. this is to keep the motor from falling on the floor when you take the bolts from the mounts out obviously... and also because taking the bolts out would prove quite difficult without supporting the motor in the first place.
so with car and motor supported take out the bolt that connects the mount to the bracket. may need to work at this for a little while.. bolt is most likely threaded most of the way so be patient.. if you are confident that there are no more threads try hitting it out if you can .. id avoid using a sledghammer etc due to the iminent damage to the threads lol.. after that bolt is out the mount will be free to move up and down. then unbolt the actual mount from the motor.. if you feel that the motor sagged down raise the jack up to keep it level.. you dont want to damage the other mounts while doing this. take old mount out put new one in.. lower so holes of mount and bracket are aligned, insert bolt, tighten. rinse and repeat.
i wrote this based on civic motor mounts.. so adjust accordingly
my method of changing them (dont see another real way..)
pulling motor isnt neccessary.
if you need to get under the car put the car on stands and get a good hydro jack for the motor. id support the motor on the tranny.. duno if thats a good idea but shur beats the oilpan..
after the vehicle is stable raise the jack so its applying pressure to the engine but not actually doing any lifting. this is to keep the motor from falling on the floor when you take the bolts from the mounts out obviously... and also because taking the bolts out would prove quite difficult without supporting the motor in the first place.
so with car and motor supported take out the bolt that connects the mount to the bracket. may need to work at this for a little while.. bolt is most likely threaded most of the way so be patient.. if you are confident that there are no more threads try hitting it out if you can .. id avoid using a sledghammer etc due to the iminent damage to the threads lol.. after that bolt is out the mount will be free to move up and down. then unbolt the actual mount from the motor.. if you feel that the motor sagged down raise the jack up to keep it level.. you dont want to damage the other mounts while doing this. take old mount out put new one in.. lower so holes of mount and bracket are aligned, insert bolt, tighten. rinse and repeat.
i wrote this based on civic motor mounts.. so adjust accordingly
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